Gabon - June 2018

Out of the 46 African countries I have visited so far, this was definitely one of the more epic trips where we hiked from Congo Brazzaville to the start of our journey in Gabon.

Finally in Gabon

Day 1:  After hiking for 40 km through the swamps and then a 7 km mokoro ride from Congo Brazzaville, we finally set foot in Gabon - and of course there was no border post. 

My right foot was one big blister after our 40 km hike but unfortunately there was no transport at the first village in Gabon and we had to hike another 7 km to the next one.  Although there was no border post, the chief of the village wanted to inspect our passports.

The chief of the first village inspecting our passports

What a relief it was to get to the second village but alas - no transport.  We were told we might get a lift in a day, two days - or who knows...  Initially we talked to the first chief, and then the main one - surprise surprise!  A very aggressive army guy arrived waving his gun and then ordered me to "GO!, GO!" to the army 'headquarters".  I was dead tired and my foot was throbbing but I started walking,  seriously limping and hoping he would pick up my heavy backpack.  

My smelly bag got searched and then it was Francis's turn.  He has been chafing so I put baby powder in his backpack but never got around to telling him that I did.  "Cocaine, cocaine" - an ecstatic Mr Testosterone asshole shouted and rushed off to have it 'tested'.  Then a miracle!  

The army relief arrived and agreed to give us a lift to the main town.  It has been a loooooong day.  The only challenge was that we did not get our passports stamped because the elderly chief in the first village obviously did not have stamps. 

The driver drove like a lunatic and Mr tough Army guy bumped his head badly several times.  I almost felt sorry for him.  Once in Makembo, Francis thought it would be a great idea to have his picture taken with the Major - just in case we get stopped along the way for being in the country illegally. 

Day 2:  We just missed our taxi as for once, it was on time and we were expecting African time.  The next one was ... the next day and we were running out of time,  My foot, also was throbbing.  Luckily Francis managed to get us a driver to take us to the village where the highest peak was. 

It was a miracle that the two male chiefs were not in the village because they were famous

The villagers who escorted us to the top of the mountain

for not granting permission to people who wanted to climb the mountain.  Instead, this lovely old lady gave us the necessary permission and one of the villagers went with us to protect us from elephants. 

It was very steep and muddy

It turned out to be a very steep and muddy hike. 

Once back, the lovely lady has arranged for a bucket shower - the best I have ever had in my life! I had been wearing the same clothes for three days and could finally put on fresh and fairly clean clothes.

Positive thinking definitely worked!  I wrote in my journal that a vehicle would stop just before 18:00 and one did - and we missed the two grumpy chiefs who might have gotten back that evening.  Our miracle truck kept on breaking down so our 6-hour turned into a 12 hour ordeal. 




Once we were dropped off, we did not have to wait too long for transport to Oyem.  Unfortunately, the vehicle broke down after about 20 km.  we flagged down a vehicle and the driver reluctantly gave us a lift. 

The first vehicle broke down

And yes, we ran out of petrol and ended up pushing the vehicle. 

Our second vehicle for the day ran out of petrol and we had to push

Rejoice, however, was stuck on the border between Gabon and Cameroon where the officials wanted proof of her accommodation in Gabon.  Once in Oyem, Francis asked nicely at the reception of a fancy hotel for a document he could take to the border post.  When he was told to wait - he 'took' an invoice before shouting to me to "RUN!".  I was then unceremoniously dropped at a taxi rank and told they would be back in 4 hours. Besides not

The invoice that was 'taken' from the fancy hotel

speaking French, I was past smelly, dirty and dead tired.  I used 150 ml of water to try and get the grease off my backpack.

With the help of a translator, a lady waiting at the taxi rank was flabbergasted to hear about my trips to climb the highest mountain in every African country - and especially about my trip so far in Gabon.

Rejoice, Francis and another lady eventually arrived 8 hours later.  Francis has gone to the wrong border post and ran out of money.  He got a lift with an army guy to the right one where he rescued Rejoice.  

This lady could not belief it when I told her about my trips

The other lady who came to Rejoices rescue's luggage was locked away and it was quite a challenge to get it unlocked by an aggressive drunk caretaker.  We found a hotel WITH RUNNING HOT WATER, where it took me hours to get the dirt and smell out of my clothes and my sense of humour returned.  

Crossing the border between Gabon and Equatorial Guinea

Day 3: After getting his luggage from Rejoice, Francis and myself traveled down to the border of Equatorial Guinea.  It was such a relief to have had no problems leaving Gabon without having entry stamps in our passports. 

On the highest mountain in Gabon