Congo Brazzaville - June 2018

Day 1.  There was an aggressive guy at the bus stop in Yaoundé but we just ignored him.  At first, we took a taxi before being squashed into another car that took us to the border of Congo Brazzaville.  I was adamant to sit next to the window and had a small "fight" with a fellow passenger who tried to push me out the door... 

Our taxi 

Our fellow passengers were all from Congo Brazzaville and whilst they were drinking beer they got louder and louder. I decided to concentrate on the forest we were driving through. 

It was pretty late when we arrived at the town next to the border so we booked into a hotel where I shared my room with huge cockroaches!

It's heart breaking to see the deforestation

Day 2:  After walking through the Cameroon border, we got a lift on a truck to the Congo Brazzaville border.  

There were loads of police stops on our way to the closest village but the people were friendly and we did not encounter any problems.  It was heartbreaking to see all the trucks that were loaded with huge logs.

We had to wait a while before we got a lift to the turnoff to the mine.  An arrogant, obviously drunk gendarme was harassing the locals by demanding bribes.  Luckily, before I could loose my sense of humour, two motorbikes stopped to take us to the next village.

Once at the mine, we were refused entry.  The mine belonged to an Australian company and we have arranged for permission to go to the highest peak before our trip, which was granted.  We had an e-mail to proof this but the guy in charge was not happy about it. 

After two hours of negotiations and phone calls, I was ready to pitch my tent.  Instead, we were shown to an apartment – which, if not for the lack of running water, I would have classified as 5 star.  I presumed that these were intended for the VIP’s whilst the mine was still operational.  The rest of the apartments were occupied by military guys.

Day 3:  I had a nice cold bucket shower before our bikes arrived at 6:30. It was drizzling and the road was rough with lots of downhills. I tried to relax by looking up at the trees. I could feel the wind in my hair and the trees’ energy and felt very much alive! 

Some obstacles in the 'road'

Although the mine was not operational, an aggressive asshole with a gun jumped in front of us and started shouting at us. He was not happy to see us or our drivers from Cameroon.

We followed a non-existing road and at times, we had to lift the motorbikes over logs.

We finally started our 5km hike to the top of the mountain by 8:00  where we did some bundu bashing in the beautiful forest.

On our way back, we got a bit lost but we met up with our motorbike guys at 13:00, who were elated, even though they had to wait in the rain.

On our way back, we bumped into the asshole with the gun again who forced us to stop. He had knife in his hand as well and I was about to tell him to just shoot us when my motorbike driver told me to keep quite.  He finally let us go.  

On top of the highest peak

Back at the mine everyone was happy to see us.   

Day 4:  I was bitten badly, hopefully by bed bugs and not mosquitoes since I completely forgot to bring anti-malaria tablets. 

Whilst waiting for a lift, we were informed that the asshole who threatened us with his gun and knife was dismissed after he had shot at a local.  I guess it was a good thing I did not tell him to shoot us!

We were dropped off at the Gabon road sign where we were told that it was only going to be a 41 km hike through the swamps to get to Gabon.  

I bought myself a pair of jelly babies shoes.  I have worn this as a teenager but now it was highly recommended by the  shopkeeper.

Buying Jelly Babies

A motorbike ride out of hell followed where we were going 60km per hour at stages and I decided that I might as well enjoy it if I am going to die and looked up at the sky...

At the village I was shown to my room in the hut.  The bed looked a bit suspicious but I had to be polite.  

And then I noticed all the cockroaches and adrenaline took over.  I yanked out my tent just to discover that I would not be able to use tent pegs.  

5 of the Critters moved and I was overtaken by supernatural powers.  

I pulled out my boot laces and cable ties and managed to secure the one end of the tent.  I hit a snag when I could not get the front tent pole to fit but hyperventilating was not an option and I got superhuman strength and with the help of the universe and a piece of the door, I pitch my tent in an very unusual way inside the hut where no critter would have easy access to me!    

I dragged my luggage in and only unzipped my tent 30 minutes before our hike.

My worst nightmare - having to share space with cockroaches

Day 5: It was full moon and thousands of fireflies lit the sky. Besides an aching back, I was happy to have escaped the critters. It was a normal hike for 4 km before we hit the swamps and I finally got the opportunity to try on my jelly babies.  

The road to Gabon

This was the start of the swamps

Willy, my poor porter struggled with my backpack and at one stage, I transferred 5 of my books to my backpack but my back was a bit stuffed after fighting off the critters and my feet were killing me.  After 18 km through the swamps, I was forced to make a decision.  It was either a prize-winning book (which was biodegradable) or my anti-cellulite cream that had to go.  I  donated the book to the forest...  

8 hours and 20 km later, we arrived at the second village at 14:00 where the chief informed us that the next 20 km would be very tough so we decided to rather stay over.  

Some of the village children

This time, I immediately pitched my tent next to the hut assigned to us.  I used mosquitoes as an excuse.  After being shown a bucket, I was one happy lady!  I managed to wash some of the smelly grime off me and then I zipped myself up in my tent and faffed a bit.  

Out came the nail file and razor. No need to look like a hooligan hiking through Africa... 

Day 6.  It was yet another early start and after one look at Willy, I decided to lighten his load by carrying my tent amongst other things– sore feet and back or not.

Willy buying some booze for energy

At our first stop, Willy stopped for some booze, which he believed would give him energy. 

Another 20 km hiking through the swamps followed where I tried my best to keep my backpack dry, before we got to the final village.

Our last stretch to Gabon was a 7km makoro ride. 

The view was breathtaking but I was so scared of falling into the river with all my electronic gadgets, that I didn't even dare to move! 

The last stretch to Gabon