Between Highest Peaks

SUNRISE ON AFRICA’s PEAKS (SOAP): After Zambia it seemed to take forever to get going again on my mission to reach the highest point in every African country. I went for some fantastic hikes in the Drakensberg, but I was restless, and plan after plan to go to Angola fell through.

SUNRISE ON AFRICA’S PEAKS kidz (SOAPkidz): During October 2003, I attended a life purpose course in the Magaliesberg. I had visions of bleeding mountains – whilst the rest of the group had visions of building orphanages. I got on stage and informed them that they should hurry up and build their orphanages – and that I would come and take their children on nature outings to go and clean our mountains. In April 2005, I took the first group of children from the Abraham Kriel Children’s home in Langlaagte on a hike. Since then, I have registered SOAPkidz as a Non-Profit organisation and have taken out more than 11 000 children during more than 100 events.

CAMELMEN: Travelling together in Africa is a good test for a relationship. After the 5th Roadblock in Zambia, Camelman II and myself, decided to finally end the three year relationship. Camelman III entered my life not long after the epic Zambia trip.

MY LIFE: Almost every aspect of my life was spiralling out of control.
  • My working conditions has changed dramatically, with new management and other challenges
  • The past two years’ hard work on trying to make SOAPkidz sustainable was not bearing any fruit. I have become obsessed with SOAPkidz, and mistakenly thought that by working harder, I could make things better. I was busy arranging event after event.
  • I was killing Camelman III with my demands. I would start talking SOAPkidz at 05h00 and in the evening, having a bottle or two of wine, I would continue.
  • My family barely saw me – I was, after all, trying to save the vulnerable kids in Africa.
  • My planned Angolan trip was met by one obstacle after another and last but not least,
  • Adventure B was going nowhere: A dear friend and I have been planning this three month adventure for years, and I was hoping to finally do it in 2010. He was, however, unable to give me a definite answer on his availability and I was stuck without him.

I made a decision, If not Angola or Adventure B, why not Morocco? It would be a piece of cake. I invited Camelman III with, and he immediately bought some travel books. He wanted to do the Camino in Spain as well. My heart was more set on fitting in another African country, but he was adamant. 

Two weeks later, Alan arrived in South Africa with some great plans for a West African trip. How many countries, I asked over a bottle or two of wine. “At least ten, maybe sixteen, if all went well”, he replied.

The next morning, I informed Camelman III that I was off to West Africa in February for two months. Morrocco will have to wait. It was an opportunity of a lifetime. I also informed my Adventure B friend that I have made a choice: I was going to West Africa for two months instead. It was one thing I was “certain” of and I only had to rely on myself.

Everything that could go wrong did go wrong.
  • I spend Christmas on my own, washing and separating thousands of used bottle tops for SOAPkidz instead of hiking with Camelman III. He was not a happy man. I was not a happy woman.
  • Alan experienced problems with his passport and had to return to Australia. We had to postpone the trip twice.
  • Because of the world cup soccer being held in South Africa, no tickets were available in June, and the planned two month trip became a three month trip
  • I worked 24/7 trying to arrange all the SOAPkidz events that would take place whilst I explore West Africa’s mountains.
  • At work, it was a nightmare to get my manager to sign my leave forms – especially since I kept on changing the dates.

A day before the trip:
  • My family decided to come and visit. So much for a last romantic evening with Camelman III!
  • There was a power failure – resulting in further chaos. No electric gate and the last minute packing had to be done by candle light – where I discovered that my sleeping bag’s zip was broken. In between, food for everyone had to be arranged.
  • My sister kept on taking pictures of me with every member of my family – saying it could be the last picture of me with the family.

D-Day:
  • I finally got into bed at 03h00.
  • I managed to give Camelman III a quick kiss before he left for work.
  • I received a call from my new manager, and after shouting at her, I raced to work – to sort out some paperwork – before racing off to Johannesburg – to pick up a satellite phone – something my son insisted on me taking the previous evening, whilst I send my Dad to buy a new sleeping bag.
  • When we finally arrived at the airport, I was close to a nervous breakdown. Alan’s grumpiness about me taking a satellite phone and other valuables with, did not help.
  • After shouting at my new manager, I was unsure if I would have a job when I returned.
  • I was unsure if Camelman III would be waiting for me
  • I was unsure of SOAPkidz and where everything was going
  • I was unsure about the three month trip – and how safe it was going to be.

I thought all my problems would be solved once I got on the plane.

South Africa – Drakensburg – More Exploration

30 December 2008: After quite an eventful night at Witsieshoek mountain retreat where we had to battle with the plumbing (after a search for the tap handles, only to find that there was no hot water, later no water at all and then the pipes complaining throughout the night), we were more than ready to explore the mountains around Phuthaditjhaba. We couldn’t have hoped for better weather. We followed several cattle trails down to the Fika Patso dam and several river crossings followed.
Several river crossings followed
Chris had been studying the topographic maps and was the only one that knew where we were heading. During one of the interesting downhills, Jenny twisted her ankle badly and the going was slowed down. There were many locals around and we were asked for food and even water every time we were approached by a group. One guy said that there was cholera in the water but maybe his English was not that good. Nevertheless, I begged some chlorine tablets from Jen, getting the ratio and waiting times mixed up thus providing the opportunity for much laugher and reducing the tension that had built up. We were very aware of the thefts taking place on top of the Sentinal and we have just stumbled upon a “coming off age” ceremony and were made to feel most unwelcome.

The amount of caves in the area was mind blowing. We finally made it to Suoi cave, where we set off cleaning the cave before settling down for the evening. It was decided that Warren and myself would follow Chris the following day and Phillip would keep Jenny, who at this stage could hardly walk, company and fix up the cave.

31 December 2008: The weather couldn’t have been better but the two bachelors, Warren and Chris took their time and we finally got away by 6am.  The general idea was to explore the unknown passes. The going was extremely tough since there were no paths and the grass was extremely lush. (Not to mention the patches of Chi Chi bush)
Bundu bashing through the chi chi bush
A long ascent followed before we finally reached the exposed grassy slopes. Trying not to hyperventilate, I reminded myself to get some help for my “must be old age and some bad experiences” fear of heights once I reach civilization. 
Steep uphill - I am getting too old for this!
Luckily, Chris and Warren came to my rescue. Chris grabbed me by my backpack and Warren shoved me from behind. We decided to have a short break. I was trying my level best whilst sitting under a dripping rock NOT TO LOOK DOWN, while the two bachelors were chatting away, admiring the lovely EXPOSED VIEW and baking in the warm sun.
Chris, Warrick and myself on top of the just named pass.
The chattering of my teeth announced that it was time to go.

Warren was talking to himself most of the way and when I asked him what the conversation was about he said, “I am crazy going with you guys!”.

The view was spectacular and after one last scramble, by 14h00, we reached the top of the escarpment. Chris christened the pass Black Wall pass and built a big cairn and then it was time for lunch. It was very noticeable that there was no litter to be found, which enforced our feeling that no one had been up this pass.  We scrambled down another unknown pass and Warren had several falls, injuring his knee. Every stumble was followed by the mug attached to his bag clanging, Warren falling and me asking, “Warren, are you all right?” Luckily it was not too bad and I could convince Warren that his cup clanging was not irritating me but rather warning me to get out of his way.  A long excruciating downhill followed (have I mentioned that my left big toenail was removed 3 weeks ago and it was still very tender?) and by 17h00, with my feet begging for a new owner, we stumbled into the cave. Jenny’s ankle was swollen badly and it was decided to take the easiest route out the next morning. Our new year’s celebration lasted exactly until 20h00.

1 January 2009: With a large bag of litter strapped to my backpack (mostly sardine cans left by locals), we headed straight for Fika Patso dam, hoping to catch a taxi on the main road. Locals having a braai next to the dam wall couldn’t believe their eyes when we walked past them and they insisted on taking some pictures of the crazy hikers that had appeared out of nowhere. Further down we bumped into more locals who were showing off their skills on a quad bike. They were reluctant to give us a lift, claiming that they were out for the day enjoying themselves and did not want to be interrupted. We had forgotten that it was a public holiday and that everyone was in a party mood. The road took us straight into Phuthaditjaba where everyone was once again extremely surprised to see us. We had to explain to everyone where we came from and where we were heading. The one lady informed us that we should have just gone over the mountain but after trying to explain the situation to her she just nodded her head in a strange way.
A cute worm
Finally we convinced a local to take Chris and Phillip to the resort to retrieve the vehicles. Jenny, myself and Warren kept on walking along the road. In a short while the locals who had given Chris and Philip the lift passed us, shouting that Chris and Phillip would be with us shortly. A long wait followed and still no sign of them or the vehicles. Finally they arrived and explained that they had been delayed because Phillip had barricaded the toll road and refused to budge until the official returned their toll money as he had promised. Happily reunited, off we went to the Shell garage for a quick wash and to repack the cars. The decision was that Chris, myself and Phillip would go exploring in Lesotho while Jenny and Warren return to Gauteng. A short and memorable trip through Golden Gate took us to Fouriesburg Country inn where we spent the night – a place I highly recommend.

2 January 2009: The start of our adventure in Lesotho. After studying the Lesotho map and consulting with some locals, it was decided to take the scenic route to Katse dam. Phillip and Chris were enjoying the 4X4 thing while I was sitting in the back, trying not to notice all the pot holes in the road. Around 12h00 a puncture stopped us. Since we had intended a 6 day hike in the mountains and not a 4X4 trip in Lesotho, I had left most of the repair kit and tools at home. While Chris and Phillip were changing the tyre, a 4X4 passed us, informing us that we were on a private road leading to a mine (opened 2 years ago) and that the road to Katse that we intended to take was pretty bad after the rains. We decided to have the tyre fixed in Matlehong and then head on to Sani Top Chalets. 
Chris and myself on top of a pass in Lesotho
The Supa Quick shop we had expected to find turned out to be 4 old tyres next to the road. Le Duc, the owner, had to be fetched from the river and charged us R80 to fix the puncture.  Relaxed and happy that once more we had a spare, the adventure continued. The feeling didn’t last very long because 20 minutes after leaving Matlehong we heard a big bang. The tyre Le Duc had just fixed, exploded. – obviously his air pump gauge was faulty and he had over inflated the tyre. We stopped to inspect the damage and did our usual wave to the locals and realized that they were not waving back but rather throwing stones at us.  We jumped into the car and sped off, absolutely shocked at the hostility shown us.
This was definately some sort of celebration
The erosion due to over grazing around Matlehong was incredibly bad.  The mountains were a desert landscape. (Who said that it was difficult to break a mountain?). We arrived at Sani Top Chalet at 16h00 where we were welcomed by the owner and given the following sleeping options since the place was packed
·   share a hut with the locals
·   share a room with the owner and his 3 big dogs
·   take over Liam’s room, a tourist from England, forcing him to share a room with the owner and his 3 big dogs.

Taking into account Phillip’s snoring it was unanimously decided to kick Liam out of his room.

3 January 2009: One look at the owner’s face the next morning convinced me that he didn’t get too much sleep the previous night. (Phillip’s snoring must have gotten to him since his dogs made it impossible to close his door).
The litter on top of Sani Pass
After breakfast, the nightmare trip down began. Since I suffer from a fear of 4X4ing, I chose to close my eyes during the first part of the road down Sani Pass.  The road turned out to be a highway with at least 15 4X4s passing us and the expressions on the drivers’ faces were all the same. Did you get down in this little 4X4?  Once again, Cutie, my little 1300 Daihatsu Terios had stood the test.
The very steep winding road down Sani Pass
Yes, she made it down!
The tyres were quickly sorted out in Underberg and we headed to Kgotso Backpackers where two hours of horse riding in the mountains followed. The backpackers was full and most of the guests were international tourists waiting to go on 4X4 trips or pony trekking into Lesotho.

4 January 2009: Time to head home. The guys had not yet had enough of dirt roads and decided to take all the “off the beaten tracks” whilst I tried to sleep or read, already thinking of dates for the next trip to the mountains.