Comoros - December 2018

The top of the crater
There is very little information available on the Internet about the Comoros.  I knew that there was a mountain that I wanted to climb, and whales to watch.  Unfortunately, it was not the time for whale watching and the boat trips were very unreliable.  I tried to phone the embassy of Comoros to find out about a visa, but seemingly they have disappeared off the face of the earth...

I phoned two travel agencies and was told that "no one goes to Comoros".  I phoned a visa agency and the lady had to do quite a bit of searching since they’ve never tried to get anyone a visa to enter Comoros.  Finally I was told that I could get one at the airport.  Voila!

I started to question if this is such a "touristy" place and googled again.  Politically it was  unstable and in 35 years there were 25 wars.  The fact that there was a volcano to climb convinced me to proceed!

25th December:  I was packed and ready 7 hours before my flight.  I then bit into an ice lolly - causing my front tooth's crown to come loose!  Thank goodness this was not going to be a romantic getaway!  At the airport I got a nasty surprise.  Because it is Christmas, all the exchange agencies are closed, resulting in a very knotted stomach!  

Maurice and Maddy
26th December: After a 14-hour flight, I arrived in Moroni.  To my horror I discover that there was no ATM at the airport.  I was "Euro"-less, toothless and the heat was unbearable.  I was definitely the ONLY tourist at the airport.  Fortunately a NGO worker offered to borrow me the 30 Euros, but her hotel was too far from mine..  The next moment a miracle happened!  The hotel management has sent a driver and I was able to borrow the money from him.

We stop at an ATM on our way to the hotel and my driver tried to cheat me.  I learned what the exchange rates were, so I considered myself to be very streetwise.  The driver told me that his friend would take me to Moheli  for the day.  Since my plans were to stay in Comoros for 6 days, it seemed like a grand idea and I took down his number.

But at the hotel I am told that he overcharged me for the taxi, and that it was impossible to travel to Moheli and back in one day!  I felt rather disappointed and fell into - thank goodness for an aircon!  At 23h00 there was a knock on the door - the manager brought me a huge plate of cooked chips, raw pasta, vegetables and eggs to take on the hike the following day. 

27th December:  My driver arrived 10 minutes early.  There was no other choice but to take the heave plate of food with.  I was only given 1,5 litres of water but decided to take another one just in case.  At the drop-off point, there was no sign of my guide.  The driver  had no airtime to contact him!  Miraculously, he appeared 30 minutes later.  I handed him the heavy plate of food and explained that it was with compliments from the hotel manager.  I was pretty unfit and it was past humid!  After an hour my guide offered to carry my 3 litres of water, and I regretted not taking more.  I declined his offer to carry my backpack – I needed the exercise!

Life saving water
We reached the camp after a 3-hour hike and after hiding our gear, we were off to the highest peak.  If it was not for the fact that we did not have enough water with us, I would have insisted on hiking to the top the next day.  According to him, we were lucky to get a clear sky day without rain.  I was pleasantly surprised when we finally reached the top.  I hauled out the South-African flag and tried my best to smile without showing the gap in my teeth!  I felt like "Jane" when I swung through some trees in order to reach the crater below!

After 6 hours, we finally got back to the camp and I pitched my tent - whilst Maddy and a friend enjoyed the huge plate of food. I was extremely worried about the water situation and I asked Maddy's friend if he had spare water.  I thought that if I got lucky and he had water I would just need to boil it first.  Much to my surprise he presented me with a fresh 1.5 litre bottle - By now I was extremely worried about the water situation and asked his friend if he did not have any spare water – expecting to boil it!  Much to my surprise he pulled out a 1.5 l bottled water and I quickly gulped down at least half of it!


The campsite

28th December:  I was all packed by 5:00 and after enjoying a cup of coffee, we started our hike.  The mountain was very littered and I decided to return again to clean up.  I badly needed to rest so we only picked up litter from the camp going down.  When we reached the village, there was no driver waiting and Maddy's phone battery was dead.  We walked to Maddy's house where his wife kindly forced me to eat some very dry cake, which I washed down with the water I had left.  She got hold of the hotel manager and they sent a driver to pick me up.  After a rejuvenating shower, I collected boiled water from the restaurant so that I could prepare myself a nice cup of coffee - fortunately I always have my coffee mix with me, everywhere I go!

Maddy having lunch

29th December:  I did absolutely nothing all day, except for a bit of reading and playing cellphone games. 

30th of December:  Because we were not going to spend the evening on top of the mountain, Maurice (a guy that I met the day before) and I set off for the mountains by 2:50.  This time I gave all my luggage to Maddy to carry.  I picked up litter whilst Maddy and Maurice went down the crater.  During our hike we picked up 5 large bags of litter.  Strangely, it took the same amount of time going up the mountain as descending. 


On top of the highest peak

We followed "Jeep" tracks filled with scree the entire way.  After 12 hours, I was back in my air conditioned room.  This was definitely not the most exciting hike ever and my feet hurt like crazy! 

It broke my heart to leave this kitten behind but at least his mom was there










Sao Tome - June 2018

It was a rush against time to get on board the plane
Day 1: After the terrible time we had in Equatorial Guinea, I was looking forward to the forests of Sao Tome.  Neither the two day stay in Cameroon, nor the camping out at the airport in Libreville could dim my spirit.  We were waiting patiently to be called to board the plane.  We suddenly heard a loud shout!  The security guys have forgotten about us, and it was a race against time to board .

To climb the Pico de Sao Tome takes 2 days and you need to be physically fit to do this. Luckily I was - but being stranded  in Equatorial Guinea did not leave us with the luxury of perfect planning, and we did not have 2 days left.  

We quickly dropped our luggage at the Airbnb before setting off to a little village closer to the mountain on motorbikes. 

It was a steep. rushed climb to the top 
Day 2: We started our hike at 3 o'clock and just about raced to the top, which we reached at 13:00.  The humidity factor was extremely high and I can’t remember ever being so tired!! But we had no choice.  The paths were slippery and at one stage, we crossed a narrow winding path with vertical drops to our sides.  

We also ran out of water and were grateful when we got to a farm where we could pick some tomatoes. 

By 20: 00, we still had 5 km to walk to our hotel but luckily we were able to get some water at a village and it was a miracle when we got a lift from one of the villagers back to the hotel.  

It was also a miracle that no one got injured since we all had a fall or two going down. After a nice hot shower, I fell asleep – too tired to even eat lunch.


The beautiful forest

The life saving roots of the plants

Don't let the smile fool you.  I was dead tired

On our way back to the capital























Equitorial Guinea - June 2018


It was a nightmare obtaining a visa for Equatorial Guinea.  My plan of action was to fly to Malabo, drive to the top of the mountain and afterwards fly to Sao Tome.

Entering Equatorial Guinea

We have entered Gabon without having our passports stamped, so my nerves were already shot at the Gabon border - but it was nothing compared to the Equatorial Guinea border! Our luggage were searched thoroughly.  E G’s Minister strived to make "his" country a paradise for tourists, so I was more relaxed when we were across the border.  It gave me a very false sense of security though.



Bush meat
Francis (busy taking a selfie) almost got run over by a guy in a makeshift wheelchair and we were told that the taking of photos were forbidden!  By this time I was exhausted and fortunately I missed the bush meat market (Yep, some pangolins).  We were lucky to get a flight from Bata to Malabo – for only $200.  So far, so good!  

But the next day Francis got back with some more bad news!  After spending hours at the Minister of Tourism and Head of Security’s offices, he was told that we were not allowed on the mountain AND we needed permits to drive around the island ($30 each), BUT it would only be available after 2 days!

So much for the president’s vision to make E G a tourist friendly place!  We did the next best thing – we took a taxi to as close as possible to the mountain.   The next day we waited patiently at the airport – just to be told that there won’t be any flights to Sao Tome that day. 

The Ceiba office at the airport referred us to the main office in town where we learned that all flights to Sao Tome have been stopped a month ago!!!!!!  It was only in Sao tome that we learned that the airline has been blacklisted.  The good news was that we bumped into an electrician working at the top of the mountain and soon we were driving up the mountain with a friend of his.  YES, YES, YES!!!!!  At the police barrier, the car overheated and we had to turn back.  By then I was very close to tears. 

Our vehicle overheated
Never fear!  Francis stopped at the village and arranged anoth
er lift for the next morning. He also discovered a flight to Sao Tome via Cameroon via Gabon that costed an arm and a leg but we wanted to get out of E G as soon as possible.  Unfortunately, the Internet connection in Malabo was so bad that we could not book online. 

The next morning we arrived at the police barrier at 7:30 just to be told that the arranged transport left an hour ago.  I started to cry.  Every time I got my hopes up, something else happened.  I did not understand one word of what was being said – but soon money changed hands and off we went.  It was quite a steep road to the top – but I dared not to  get too excited.  

And then we stopped at a newly build church – intended (I presumed) for tourists!  Going further without being shot by the military was a slight challenge, so 130m from the top, we reluctantly turned back.  


I gave up the idea of flying to Sao Tome but Francis insisted that, on a previous occasion he arrived at the airport only 15 minutes prior to take-off.  We stopped at the Internet cafe and I almost had my third nervous breakdown on the trip.  The flight bookings were closed, so luckily we had 3 more days to spend in E G.  


Chinese Windows

In the office of the Minister of Tourism
We bought the expensive tickets (Yes – Ceiba flies to Cameroon).  We then went to the Minister of Tourism’s office, and tried to arrange for another permit to drive around the island.  After waiting 3 hours Francis well asleep, and so was the secretary!

When returning to our host, we were informed that Ceiba’s flight is now scheduled for one day EARLIER!!  We forfeited the $60 we paid for the trip around the island and arrived at the airport very early!  I was feeling ecstatic after checking in our luggage but I felt only truly relaxed after the plane took off.


Yebo Yes!







Getting a visa for Equitorial Guinea - June 2018

50 Days before my trip and I was told that I only needed an itinerary and R750 to get a visa for Equatorial Guinea (E G).  I tried to get hold of the Embassy numerous times - whilst getting visas for 3 other Central African Countries.  After getting nowhere telephonically, I paid the embassy a visit.  I met a forlorn security guard and he informed me that it was a public.

After numerous fruitless phone calls, I finally got hold of one "Maria".  She told me to phone later and she would, in the meantime, find out which documents and forms were needed to apply.  After a few more calls, she acknowledged that she still had no idea of which forms were needed as she is not employed in the visa department.

I rushed off to the embassy again and met "Mavis".  She was the receptionist and cleaner.  She informed me that I needed a police clearance certificate.  Time was running out and I rushed around like a headless chicken trying to obtain it.  I was told that it normally took 8 weeks...  I was so desperate and it felt so hopeless.  After 10 days, a lot of running around swearing, praying, daily visits to the police, and a bunch of "Urbanols", I was presented with my police clearance certificate.  Everyone in the police office cheered as I was about to leave and I was asked to come back and show them photos after I return from E G.

I rushed off with my police clearance certificate a bit relieved.  Mavis was almost as excited as I was!  Another 7 days and I should have my visa...  To ensure I got it, I booked a hotel room for a week - standard procedure when applying for a visa - because you merely cancel it afterwards.  In Equatorial Guinea, the cheapest room I could got was R2 000 per day - I needed to stay 9 days...

I visited Mavis twice during the 7 day period, hoping to get my visa before the time.  On the day I had to fly to Cameroon, I walked into the Equatorial Guinea’s Embassy.  "Hi Mavis, where is my visa?".  I was very close to tears when she told me that Maria took my passport, and would be sending it to E G.  I explained about the R18 000 hotel booking loss since they won’t refund me, the flight ticket was paid for....  She phoned someone and told me to return in an hour.   

I was desperate!!  Maria phoned me and I guess she could hear that I was kind of hysterical.  How could this even be happening??  She told me that their procedures changed since April 2018.  Yea right!  And for 50 days I have not been able to see anyone working in the visa department!  I literally begged her to try and arrange a visa maybe somewhere in Libreville.  When she finally phoned me back by 15:00, she also sounded very close to tears...  she said that there was nothing further that she could do...  

Just before boarding my flight to Cameroon, I rushed to pick up my passport, at this stage just grateful that it hasn’t been send to E G yet.  

In Cameroon we tried in vain to get a visa at the Equatorial Guinea embassy.  According to them, it was almost impossible to get one and I clung onto the idea that I might get one in Gabon or Sao Tome

And then one "Emmanuel" phoned me.  For CAF 400 000 he could get me a visa.  After an hour, the price was increased to CAF 450 000 (R11 000).  I was more than willing to pay. 

I almost had a heart attack when it was mentioned that it might be cheaper if we try in Gabon.  If it should fail, I could send my passport back to Cameroon via a taxi and then Emmanuel would get the visa.


Shortly afterwards I met Emmanuel and he seemed like an honest person.  He scrutinized my documents (clearly knowing what papers would be needed before leaving).  I spent the next two days frantically waiting for news, and prayed that he managed to get a visa for me.  

Miraculously, on the last evening, he handed me my passport with the "golden" visa inside!
I was so grateful and relieved... all was well in Africa.



Gabon - June 2018

Out of the 46 African countries I have visited so far, this was definitely one of the more epic trips where we hiked from Congo Brazzaville to the start of our journey in Gabon.


Finally in Gabon
Day 1:  After hiking for 40 km through the swamps and then a 7 km mokoro ride from Congo Brazzaville, we finally set foot in Gabon - and of course there was no border post. 

My right foot was one big blister after our 40 km hike but unfortunately there was no transport at the first village in Gabon and we had to hike another 7 km to the next one.  Although there was no border post, the chief of the village wanted to inspect our passports.
The chief of the first village inspecting our passports
What a relief it was to get to the second village but alas - no transport.  We were told we might get a lift in a day, two days - or who knows...  Initially we talked to the first chief, and then the main one - surprise surprise!  A very aggressive army guy arrived waving his gun and then ordered me to "GO!, GO!" to the army 'headquarters".  I was dead tired and my foot was throbbing but I started walking,  seriously limping and hoping he would pick up my heavy backpack.  

My smelly bag got searched and then it was Francis's turn.  He has been chafing so I put baby powder in his backpack but never got around to telling him that I did.  "Cocaine, cocaine" - an ecstatic Mr Testosterone asshole shouted and rushed off to have it 'tested'.  Then a miracle!  

The army relief arrived and agreed to give us a lift to the main town.  It has been a loooooong day.  The only challenge was that we did not get our passports stamped because the elderly chief in the first village obviously did not have stamps. 

The driver drove like a lunatic and Mr tough Army guy bumped his head badly several times.  I almost felt sorry for him.  Once in Makembo, Francis thought it would be a great idea to have his picture taken with the Major - just in case we get stopped along the way for being in the country illegally. 

Day 2:  We just missed our taxi as for once, it was on time and we were expecting African time.  The next one was ... the next day and we were running out of time,  My foot, also was throbbing.  Luckily Francis managed to get us a driver to take us to the village where the highest peak was. 

It was a miracle that the two male chiefs were not in the village because they were famous
The villagers who escorted us to the top of the mountain
for not granting permission to people who wanted to climb the mountain.  Instead, this lovely old lady gave us the necessary permission and one of the villagers went with us to protect us from elephants. 




It was very steep and muddy
It turned out to be a very steep and muddy hike. 

Once back, the lovely lady has arranged for a bucket shower - the best I have ever had in my life! I had been wearing the same clothes for three days and could finally put on fresh and fairly clean clothes.

Positive thinking definitely worked!  I wrote in my journal that a vehicle would stop just before 18:00 and one did - and we missed the two grumpy chiefs who might have gotten back that evening.  Our miracle truck kept on breaking down so our 6-hour turned into a 12 hour ordeal. 




Once we were dropped off, we did not have to wait too long for transport to Oyem.  Unfortunately, the vehicle broke down after about 20 km.  we flagged down a vehicle and the driver reluctantly gave us a lift. 
The first vehicle broke down

And yes, we ran out of petrol and ended up pushing the vehicle. 
Our second vehicle for the day ran out of petrol and we had to push

Rejoice, however, was stuck on the border between Gabon and Cameroon where the officials wanted proof of her accommodation in Gabon.  Once in Oyem, Francis asked nicely at the reception of a fancy hotel for a document he could take to the border post.  When he was told to wait - he 'took' an invoice before shouting to me to "RUN!".  I was then unceremoniously dropped at a taxi rank and told they would be back in 4 hours. Besides not
The invoice that was 'taken' from the fancy hotel
speaking French, I was past smelly, dirty and dead tired.  I used 150 ml of water to try and get the grease off my backpack.


With the help of a translator, a lady waiting at the taxi rank was flabbergasted to hear about my trips to climb the highest mountain in every African country - and especially about my trip so far in Gabon.

Rejoice, Francis and another lady eventually arrived 8 hours later.  Francis has gone to the wrong border post and ran out of money.  He got a lift with an army guy to the right one where he rescued Rejoice.  



This lady could not belief it when I told her about my trips
The other lady who came to Rejoices rescue's luggage was locked away and it was quite a challenge to get it unlocked by an aggressive drunk caretaker.  We found a hotel WITH RUNNING HOT WATER, where it took me hours to get the dirt and smell out of my clothes and my sense of humour returned.  


Crossing the border between Gabon and Equatorial Guinea
Day 3: After getting his luggage from Rejoice, Francis and myself traveled down to the border of Equatorial Guinea.  It was such a relief to have had no problems leaving Gabon without having entry stamps in our passports. 


On the highest mountain in Gabon








Congo Brazzaville - June 2018

Day 1.  There was an aggressive guy at the bus stop in Yaoundé but we just ignored him.  At first, we took a taxi before being squashed into another car that took us to the border of Congo Brazzaville.  I was adamant to sit next to the window and had a small "fight" with a fellow passenger who tried to push me out the door... 


Our taxi 
Our fellow passengers were all from Congo Brazzaville and whilst they were drinking beer they got louder and louder. I decided to concentrate on the forest we were driving through. 

It was pretty late when we arrived at the town next to the border so we booked into a hotel where I shared my room with huge cockroaches!

It's heart breaking to see the deforestation
Day 2:  After walking through the Cameroon border, we got a lift on a truck to the Congo Brazzaville border.  

There were loads of police stops on our way to the closest village but the people were friendly and we did not encounter any problems.  It was heartbreaking to see all the trucks that were loaded with huge logs.



We had to wait a while before we got a lift to the turnoff to the mine.  An arrogant, obviously drunk gendarme was harassing the locals by demanding bribes.  Luckily, before I could loose my sense of humour, two motorbikes stopped to take us to the next village.

Once at the mine, we were refused entry.  The mine belonged to an Australian company and we have arranged for permission to go to the highest peak before our trip, which was granted.  We had an e-mail to proof this but the guy in charge was not happy about it. 

After two hours of negotiations and phone calls, I was ready to pitch my tent.  Instead, we were shown to an apartment – which, if not for the lack of running water, I would have classified as 5 star.  I presumed that these were intended for the VIP’s whilst the mine was still operational.  The rest of the apartments were occupied by military guys.

Day 3:  I had a nice cold bucket shower before our bikes arrived at 6:30. It was drizzling and the road was rough with lots of downhills. I tried to relax by looking up at the trees. I could feel the wind in my hair and the trees’ energy and felt very much alive! 


Some obstacles in the 'road'
Although the mine was not operational, an aggressive asshole with a gun jumped in front of us and started shouting at us. He was not happy to see us or our drivers from Cameroon.

We followed a non-existing road and at times, we had to lift the motorbikes over logs.

We finally started our 5km hike to the top of the mountain by 8:00  where we did some bundu bashing in the beautiful forest.

On our way back, we got a bit lost but we met up with our motorbike guys at 13:00, who were elated, even though they had to wait in the rain.

On our way back, we bumped into the asshole with the gun again who forced us to stop. He had knife in his hand as well and I was about to tell him to just shoot us when my motorbike driver told me to keep quite.  He finally let us go.  

On top of the highest peak

Back at the mine everyone was happy to see us.   

Day 4:  I was bitten badly, hopefully by bed bugs and not mosquitoes since I completely forgot to bring anti-malaria tablets. 

Whilst waiting for a lift, we were informed that the asshole who threatened us with his gun and knife was dismissed after he had shot at a local.  I guess it was a good thing I did not tell him to shoot us!

We were dropped off at the Gabon road sign where we were told that it was only going to be a 41 km hike through the swamps to get to Gabon.  

I bought myself a pair of jelly babies shoes.  I have worn this as a teenager but now it was highly recommended by the  shopkeeper.

Buying Jelly Babies

A motorbike ride out of hell followed where we were going 60km per hour at stages and I decided that I might as well enjoy it if I am going to die and looked up at the sky...

At the village I was shown to my room in the hut.  The bed looked a bit suspicious but I had to be polite.  

And then I noticed all the cockroaches and adrenaline took over.  I yanked out my tent just to discover that I would not be able to use tent pegs.  

5 of the Critters moved and I was overtaken by supernatural powers.  


I pulled out my boot laces and cable ties and managed to secure the one end of the tent.  I hit a snag when I could not get the front tent pole to fit but hyperventilating was not an option and I got superhuman strength and with the help of the universe and a piece of the door, I pitch my tent in an very unusual way inside the hut where no critter would have easy access to me!    

I dragged my luggage in and only unzipped my tent 30 minutes before our hike.


My worst nightmare - having to share space with cockroaches

Day 5: It was full moon and thousands of fireflies lit the sky. Besides an aching back, I was happy to have escaped the critters. It was a normal hike for 4 km before we hit the swamps and I finally got the opportunity to try on my jelly babies.  

The road to Gabon

This was the start of the swamps

Willy, my poor porter struggled with my backpack and at one stage, I transferred 5 of my books to my backpack but my back was a bit stuffed after fighting off the critters and my feet were killing me.  After 18 km through the swamps, I was forced to make a decision.  It was either a prize-winning book (which was biodegradable) or my anti-cellulite cream that had to go.  I  donated the book to the forest...  

8 hours and 20 km later, we arrived at the second village at 14:00 where the chief informed us that the next 20 km would be very tough so we decided to rather stay over.  
Some of the village children

This time, I immediately pitched my tent next to the hut assigned to us.  I used mosquitoes as an excuse.  After being shown a bucket, I was one happy lady!  I managed to wash some of the smelly grime off me and then I zipped myself up in my tent and faffed a bit.  

Out came the nail file and razor. No need to look like a hooligan hiking through Africa... 

Day 6.  It was yet another early start and after one look at Willy, I decided to lighten his load by carrying my tent amongst other things– sore feet and back or not.

Willy buying some booze for energy

At our first stop, Willy stopped for some booze, which he believed would give him energy. 

Another 20 km hiking through the swamps followed where I tried my best to keep my backpack dry, before we got to the final village.

Our last stretch to Gabon was a 7km makoro ride. 

The view was breathtaking but I was so scared of falling into the river with all my electronic gadgets, that I didn't even dare to move! 


The last stretch to Gabon