Mt Bisoko (Volcano)

The last two days have been hectic.  After arriving in Rwanda for the first time, I was informed that my permit to climb Karisimbi had been evoked – apparently there were some safety issues. 

I had two choices.  I could stay in the Guest house for two days or I could jump in a taxi and go back to Uganda where two volcanoes awaited. 

Two days later, the official at the border couldn’t believe his eyes.  I have been in and out of the country four times. 

The first and fourth time, I walked across the border.  The second time I crossed the border while hiking to Mt. Sabinyo . The third time, I dove into lake Mutavaru and swam in the freezing water to Rwanda. 

I was treated like a VIP at the guest house I have left in such a hurry after I was informed that I won’t be able to climb Karisimbi. 


A Map of all the volcanoes
Climbing Bisoko:  Stuart Martin has joined me the previous evening and after being picked up at 04h00, a bumpy ride to the Rwanda Parksboard offices followed. After being entertained by the local dancers, we were on our way to the start. Once again, it was a steep uphill – but what a beautiful hike.  The rest of the group rushed to the top but this was Stuart’s first big mountain and we took it step by step. It was a good thing, because we got to see one of the five Rwenzori Toracoes in the area.  Our guide also “confessed” to me that he used to be a poacher and that he started at the age of three.  His family had no other income and this was the only way to survive.  I felt very ashamed for being so quick to judge. 

We had a cut-off time and I was getting a bit nervous.  Suddenly our guide shouted “Well done, you have reached the half way mark!” My first thoughts were that we will never make it – but Stuart just carried on – and not long after, we reached the top.  I think any other person would have given up, and turned back. Once again, I have learned a valuable lesson. 

On top
The hike down was supposed to be a lot easier, but it was extremely slippery, and Stuart discovered immediately that his hiking boot had no grip on them.  No matter what he did, he fell all the way down. The guides and porters were very concerned, especially after he got a bit cranky and swore a bit – but I tried to put them all at ease by videotaping some of his falls. For some reason, it didn’t have a very positive effect on some people. 


It was very steep and very slippery
It was a huge relief when we finally got to the forest at the bottom where we hit the jackpot.  A big silverback crossed the path and what an awesome and unexpected experience.  After hearing him beating his chest on the way up, we now had our exposure of the “gorillas in the mist”.  

A quick clean-up followed walking through the village and when I remarked that Rwanda is an extremely clean country, our guide told me that they had a clean-up every month and that it was illegal to bring plastic bags into the country. 

Someone was doing something right in Rwanda.

The Clean-up




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