South Africa – Drakensberg (Mafadi)

Day 1 - Injisuthi Camp (1500m) - Centenary hut (2200m): I was ‘ooohing’ and ‘aahhing’ all the way from Pretoria to Injisuthi hutted camp. We left after 4 and had the full moon, the rising sun and all the birds perched on the telephone lines to gawp at. And then it was the beautiful mountains. My estimated "walk in the park” - only 10km and a 700m ascent turned out to be 5 hours of serious huffing and puffing and some nice river crossings. Boy - was I glad to see the hut. After pitching the tents Ian started the meal - pasta, bacon and eggs. Since he always insists on hiking in style, loads of luxuries were dragged up. Nope - crazier they don't come - but there is definitely some improvement. The 5 bottles of red wine and the deck chair were left behind on this hike. Some really tired people had some Irish coffee and then I crawled into my newly acquired tent. And I could not have wished for better testing weather. At one stage I thought Bernelle and I were going to be blown off the hill but we survived - and most importantly - we remained dry (PS: Ear plugs should accompany tent when the wind is howling). The next day I was informed that I should pitch my tent parallel to gullies.

Our first river crossing

Day 2 - Centenary hut (2200m) - somewhere in Lesotho (+- 3000m): The huffing and puffing started almost immediately and when we reached Corner pass Ian declared me officially crazy for choosing this specific route. We stopped for tea on some obscure spot and then everyone seemed to notice that I was a bit pale. I was disorientated, nauseous and everything looked red to me.

Luckily I was declared fit by Bernelle after informing her that the grass still looked green and by the time we were forced to take shelter I was feeling on top of the world again. Ropes were pulled out a couple of times - whether it was necessary or just for moral support - it worked and after 7 hours we were finally on top of Corner Pass. It took us another two hours of hiking in the mist before we decided to pitch the tents.

Going up via Corner pass

Waiting for the hail storm to stop

We had different opinions:

• I said I knew we were either in South Africa or Lesotho
• Bernelle thought we weren't in Swaziland (or Switzerland for that matter)
• Ian thought we were close to Mafadi and
• Harry's gps said we were only 700m away from corner pass. That evening while Ian made supper, Harry asked
• me why we punish ourselves like this.

The next day after intensive map reading and scouting it was decided that Harry’s GPS was right. We had been walking around in circles.

Day 3 - somewhere in Lesotho - top of Leslie Pass: Ian and I spend some time looking for Injusiti cave. At one stage we met a Basutu and he indicated that Mafadi was west - but alas - Harry's gps said Mafadi was about 100m east - and voila - what a magnificent sight. There were a lot of birds of prey circling around and after something hot on South Africa's highest peak we started looking for the Injusiti summit cave - another splendid sight.

Injasuthi Cave

And seeing that we were all so very fit (sic) we decided to take a scenic route to Leslie's pass and 9 hours after packing up our tents we pitched it again. (And no - I was not grumpy when I sneaked off to go and have an ice cold swim after Ian refused to give me some hot water for my usual bath - I was being considerate towards Harry – he’s not used to swearing females.)

Day 4 - Leslie Pass - Injusiti hutted camp (8 hours). It was absolutely breathtaking once on top of Leslie's pass and between all the tears I could finally answer Harry's question. I just wish more people can experience the breathtaking beauty of the Berg. We were on top of the clouds for at least 2 hours before the mist rolled in. The sound affects following every fall was quite something considering that Ian's one fall was the only ungracious one I saw. But we all survived the scree and rock scrambling and Bernelle got her picture taken in the Marble bath pools. While the rest were having lunch I went to inspect Marble Cave - and when I informed them that the sign said it was Grindstone Cave, Bernelle just shook her head - I don't think anyone would have been surprised if we were in the wrong pass - but it turned out that someone switched the signs and that for once we were where we thought we were.

Mafadi

Lesotho – Drakensberg (Thaba Nthlenyana) - December 2004

31 December 2004:  After successfully squeezing Frans, Andre, Bernelle and myself (with our 4 backpacks) into my Fiat Uno 1100, our planned 17-day adventure in the Drakensberg officially started! 

We would do the Grand Traverse, starting at Bushmen’s neck and finishing at the Sentinal, We would sleep in caves and have one refuel at Sani Pass Top Chalet.  The excitement was contagious, even after we realised I had forgotten to book a cave and we had to change our route slightly.

1 January 2005:  An 11 hour, 14 km hike followed, where some frustration was felt by the others because I was adamant on finding caves, whilst the rest were slightly worried that we would not make it on time.

2 January 2005: Our hike started off misty and wet, hiking the 4 km that we could not fit in the previous day, past Tsepeng pass.  There were flowers everywhere and it took some concentration not to step on them. 

We continued on to Mzimkulu Pass, where we got slightly disorientated as the mist set in. When the mist got too dense, we pitched our tents. When the hail started, Frans announced that it’s whisky on ice time.  Since we had plenty whisky, I pulled out all the stops when it was my turn to make Irish coffee.

3 January 2005:  The wind and rain played ping-pong with us all night, with a huge thundering storm added for variation.  Starting out at 06h30, with clear skies, we made it to Sani Top Chalet by 14h30 where a ice-cold beer and Gluwein awaited.

Frans’s knee was acting up badly and he would not be able to continue hiking. This leaves the expedition count down to three. A meeting was called and the following things were discussed

• “Berg” rule is never hike with less than four people;  
• Security in Lesotho is an issue;
• The weather is unpredictable in summer;
• We completed only 49 of the 217 km planned, and we started off from the South, whereas it’s normally done from the North.

Just before a decision to do another two day hike with Lorna, Ian and Leslie to Thaba Nthlenyana was reached, a perfect rainbow showed itself and more drinks were ordered.

4 January 2005: We left at 08h30 and had a Basotho entourage all the way to the camp on the slope of Thaba Nthlenyana where we pitched our tents at 15h30 in the hail. Just to keep everyone amused, Andre had some fun by running naked in the hail.

5 January 2005: We woke up at 03h00 and reached the peak at 05h00, just in time for a spectacular sunrise. I was instantly forgiven for forcing everyone (except Ian and Leslie) to get up so early. 

After a hearty breakfast that Ian had waiting at the camp, we hiked back to Sani Top Chalet, chatting away. The spectacular view imprinted on our minds forever.

Back on the tar road, we stopped for lunch at Himeville, where very few windows had survived the hailstorm.

Swaziland – Emlembe, Sibebe and Malelotja

Someone predicted bad weather for the weekend but I spend at least 2 hours on the net surfing for a weather-site predicting sunny weather – and voila – how bad can a cloud with one tiny drop somewhere in the distance be?

At 14h00 Bernelle, Frans, Lorna, Andre and myself were on our way in our two Uno 1100's to the Kingdom of Swaziland. We spend the night at Legends-a backpackers lodge with some very interesting characters and were woken at 2h00 by that one drop (that quickly turned into millions of big drops. But not to worry – when our guide turned up at 3h30 the weather was perfect and we were off - to climb the second largest rock mass in the world - Sibebe.

We didn’t get very far when Nthulani informed us that the rock was too slippery and that we had to turn back – so Lorna and I ended up watching birds and the other three had a rest. And then we were off to do some adventure caving.  Swaziland is really a beautiful place and after the caving we were soaking wet and we had a nice “swim” in the cuddle puddle close to Legends.

We had to abandon our mission

Then we were off again – by now the rocks were mostly dry – but what a mental challenge!  A little voice inside my head kept telling me that it was absolutely impossible to get to the top without ropes – luckily Fluff was brave (maybe because she could not turn around?) and I had some serious conversations with myself (one shuffle at a time/don’t look down/you can do it/are you $#@ crazy!!! etc.)

It's a long way down

Once on top it took me a while to get my knees to stop shaking (and to find Bernelle who fell in love with the place and went exploring).  Finally the adventure started...  We took a different route down and had some nice "bum slides". 


We also had to squeeze through a beautiful cave where I donated some skin.  Once down everyone agreed that it was a mind over matter thing – it seemed quite possible when you’re at the bottom but half way up you get a closer look and it is quite freaky!  

We all made it!

And that was the Sibebe challenge. 

We packed and headed for Malelotja but we missed the turn-off and spend the night camping outside Piggs Peak. It started raining but we were getting very good at pitching the tents in the rain.

The next morning I got the distinct feeling that some senses of humour were a bit lost but we headed for Bulwer in any case (it was only drizzling). What a nice surprise. We were able to get hold of a guide and the hike up to Emlembe (The highest peak in Swaziland) was - although a bit rushed - great.

The start of our hike to the top of the mountain

On the way to Malelotja, some people got into a better mood after being fed but I got a bit grumpy because no one wanted to stop to do some bird watching. Malelotja is a beautiful place, the campsites are awesome and we had a great time around the fire.

Monday morning Frans and myself followed Bernelle to the Malelotja falls where she discovered the adventurous mushroom route.  Another challenging hike back to the campsite followed with heavy lightning striking, just to discover that our dry clothes and hot food were locked in my car and that the keys were somewhere on a game drive.  Eventually, everyone calmed down after 2 hours when Andre and Lorna arrived back and we enjoyed a hot shower/something hot to eat/the birds and a final whisky in our coffee before we headed back to the rat race.

On top of Swaziland's highest peak

South Africa – Drakensberg (Langalibalele Pass)

My trip to paradise started with an e-mail to my boss on Friday

-----Original Message-----

                        From:             Karen Hauptfleisch

                        Sent:              30 July 2004 09:46

                        To:                  XXXXXXXXX

                        Subject:        Mountains

Don't look for me after 10h00 - it's snowing on the mountains and they've been shouting since Wednesday. I’m just going for a quick hike up Giant's Castle. 

 Off course – we only got a peek of the castle the next morning after 7h00 while sipping some Wimpy coffee in Mooiriver trying to explain to a pale Ian (it must have been something he ate a few hours ago at Taps) why it was absolutely necessary to get up at 5h00. And since the grocery store only opens at 8h00 (and Ian forgot about food and a few other minor details such as benzene, Old Brown Sherry and that we were coming) we had to squeeze in a Wimpy breakfast as well.

And it was only after providing Ian with some anti-head-throbbing tablets and chatting to a group of Capetonian ice climbers heading for the frozen waterfalls in Giants Pass, that we started our hike up Langalibalele pass. Ian’s backpack was way too heavy and off course the fact that I gave him the tent to carry and the thirst he must have developed by now made for some interesting conversation.

We came across some Eland and baboons and after reaching the contour path (it’s 2km of unrelenting up hills) we took the recommended break and had some snacks (Which, thank goodness, left Ian with 2 liter water less to carry and us with another 4 km to go). And this is where the Strauss waltz got stuck in my head – I just wanted to waltz.  Andre declared that The Sound of Music’s song, something about “high on a hill is a lonely goat” was stuck in his head.

And then someone gave a shout (it could have been me) but there it was – snow. And all of a sudden Andre got his sense of humour back and me and Lorna got an instant snow-crazy buddy. (Mt Aconcagua here we come). 

Myself and Lorna in the snow

The rest of the way me, Lorna and Andre had permanent grins on our faces despite the climb (And I presume Ian was feeling much better since he was sprinting to the top). Once on top Ian suggested that we pitch the tent instead of hiking another kilometre to Bannerman’s cave (okay, so I do have an obsession about finding caves) since the mist was rolling in (and the chances of actually seeing the blue moon became slim.) And then the battle to get warm started…

Lorna and myself, admiring the blue moon

We put on dry clothes, pitched the tent, had some anti freeze and then everyone got in the sleeping bags to get warm. (I was giggling outside because I got to sit on Ian’s famous camping chair without him seeing me and then the nagging started.  “Fuzzy – get inside the bloody tent. Are you an ADD sufferer?“ “No Ian, I’m a Gemini so it’s NORMAL for me to have nervous energy” And then I finally got inside the tent and sleeping bag – and I really tried not to disturb everyone else (Yep – apparently everyone gets warned (I’m not saying by whom) not to share a tent with me because I have ants in my pants and a weak bladder).

Ian getting the coffee ready

And then the thought that I’m wasting my life sleeping made me grab my headlamp and I went for a walk. (Or was it my bladder?) It was really beautiful but all of a sudden I got this eerie feeling that made me want to run back to the tent so I turned around and ended up sitting in Ian’s chair starring at where the moon was supposed to be.

We decided to turn back shortly
after this photo was taken

And there she was in all her glory. It was awesome and (did I shout so loud?) Lorna, Ian and Andre rushed out of the tent. We took a stroll to the edge of the escarpment and sat there for a long time in silence admiring a view impossible to describe. My heart filled with gratefulness and my tears kept melting the snow. Gratefulness for being given the opportunity to witness the Berg covered in snow with the blue moon providing us with light. We hugged one another and decided it was time to stand on our head. After all, what are blue moons for?

The rest teamed up against me and I was told to get inside the tent again – which I did – but my heart stayed outside thinking that I might still convince one of them to join me in a nice summit a bit later on. Unfortunately the only reply I got during the night was “No, maybe a bit later” – and it was not coming from Ian or Andre. The next morning, I thought I’ll warm up by taking a nice stroll up a hill – big mistake since I don’t have snow boots but luckily I defrost quickly and Ian was so kind to sleep with my socks. Plus I got a foot rub. And then it was time for some inspection –

 

Things that froze (and they were inside the tent)

·    The boots

·    My shampoo

·    My cream

·    Ian’s socks

·    My waterbottles

·    My walking sticks

·    A part of my sleeping bag

Things that didn’t freeze

·     Lorna’s gaiters

·     The condensmelk

 

After melting some snow and having some soup/coffee we decided to go back via Bannerman’s pass. Ian had to be back by 13h00 and he headed down Langalibalele. It was great fun (and a good workout) getting to the top and after a while we decided to skip the caves and head straight for the pass). It was at about this stage that I decided to look where I’m going since I was getting tired trying to get up every time I fell and eventually we all came to the responsible conclusion that considering the weather it was maybe not such a bad idea to turn back and go down Langalibalele pass – which we did.

The part where I got lost and couldn’t get down because of steep cliffs? Well, no need to go into details but it convinced me not to go solo next year doing the 200km Berg traverse – so let me know which section you’re willing to hike with – and be aware that I have very little navigational skills…

 

My feeling about the hike? It was absolutely amazing!

 

Andre’s feelings? Ek is regtig op 'n "HIGH" hoor! Alles is nog steeds besig om in te sink...

 

Lorna’s feelings? Aaagh the photos came out great! It brings back such good memories! Thanks guys for a wonderful weekend. The good news is that my ankle is fine, it is not sore at all for which I am extremely grateful. I think it was that wonderful swim that did it so much good. Pity about the Moon photos but the memories will always be there.

 

Ian’s feelings? This is my church…..

Uganda – Rwenzori - Mountains of the Moon - April 2004

Pushing the bus out of a ditch, bouncing around trying to avoid serious head collisions whilst the bus driver tried to avoid massive potholes and other crazy drivers made for yet another exciting trip.  Soon after we arrived at our overnight hotel, the rain started to pour down. It was going to be a very wet start.

Day 1:  It was quite a site to see - 12 Moonies, 38 porters, 6 guides, 2 cooks and 2 rangers trying to navigate the steep uphills and downhills to Nyabitaba camp.

Day 2:  Another exciting day of uphills, downhills, slippery rocks and rain followed.  Everyone got drenched, even the people wearing Mr Gortex’s gear!  The John Matte hut was a welcome site for most of us.  Some Moonies showed some initiative trying to get their clothes dry.  I can now proudly say that sleeping with smelly wet socks is something that  can be done!

Day 3:  Oh be scared!  Be VERY scared of the bog!  Just when I thought that everyone was exaggerating...  I saw people jumping excitedly from tussock to foothold - trying to avoid the deep portions of bog.  I took a step, and were buried in mud - hip deep!  Trying to claim my "Wellingtons" back, was quite a mission.  Whilst the rest of the Moonies rested at Bijuku camp, some starting to suffer from altitude or mountain sickness.  Piers, Stephen and myself visited the beautiful Glacial lakes.  That afternoon, crampons were tried on. I said a couple of prayers whilst I listened to the howling winds.

Day 4:  We woke up to winds, more drizzle and thick mist. A decision was made. 5 Moonies would hike to Kitandara camp whilst the rest would push on for high camp.  I was so excited. It was icy above 4000m and treacherous icy rock faces had to be faced. Porters and fellow Moonies alike fell and hypothermia became a big reality.  Moonies, porters and guides arrived at Elena Hut in dribs and drabs, shivering and shaking from the exertion and the demons we had to face. 

We all huddled together in our sleeping bags, unsure what the rest of the day would bring. And then there was a shout! The sun has just shown herself. The evening showed a clear sky, moon rising and a spectacular sunset.

Day 5:  At 04h00 in the morning, the Moonies in Kitandara awoke to hail on the roof of the hut.  At Elena hut, we geared ourselves with harnesses, crampons and ice-axes and, together with the guides, we tackled the glacier en route to Margherita. The mist was thick, and got even thicker. About a kilometre into the attempt, we had to abandon it. The equally tricky and icy descent down to Kitandara followed. I was not looking forward to sharing my sleeping bag with smelly wet socks again.

Day 6:  More bog followed on our way to Guy Yeoman hut, where everyone was in good spirit, listening to Tony’s tunes.

Day 7:  The 4 Moonies who were hiking two days in one to get off the mountain early made it down safely.  After they cleaned up they started enjoying liquid refreshments! The rest of the party walked as far as Nyabitaba camp at a leisurely pace.

Day 8:  While Ela recovered from the Altitude sickness with tea and some G&T Piers, Simon and myself boarded a bus and headed for the source of the Nile where a bungee jump and a river rafting trip on the Nile was followed by the party to end all parties.

Day 9: Another adventurous trip back to Kampala was followed by yet another party.

Day 10: I survived the Mountains of the Moon.  A big piece of my heart was left behind. Chris, our guide, could hardly believe his eyes when I started bawling when we said our goodbyes...

Uganda – Mount Elgon – Wagagai Peak - April 2004

In April 2004, 11 intrepid explorers, nicknamed “Moonies” (for their desire to walk the mountains of the moon), ignored the news of violence in northern Uganda, and departed on a magical journey...  

Having “stumbled upon” them training for the hike in the Drakensberg earlier in December 2003, and unaware of any danger in Africa, I decided to join the 11 Moonies which were all members of ESSA (Exploration Society of South Africa).

The trip to Mt Elgon was not uneventful. Stephen’s luggage never made it to Entebbe airport That same evening, I stopped eating fish after a Tilapia with real eyes was  brought to me and, to everyone’s dismay, I refused to eat it.  My idea of fish was always that you buy it prepacked - coated in a nice batter and stuck it in the oven).

After two days of hiking, it was finally time to get up at what others might call an ungodly hour and head for Wagagai summit.  After the necessary pictures were taken, we headed back to Mude camp for breakfast.  I was feeling energized, so when Jackson’s peak was mentioned, I was able to convince one of the guides to take me there whilst the rest hiked back to camp for breakfast.

That evening, after some more trekking, Chris Muritti, our Kenyan Guide entertained us with some African rhythms played on Tony’s guitar.

The next morning after a fast trek down the mountain, "chapattis" at Rosie’s and a taxi ride back to Kampala, it was time for a well deserved bath!  We washed our clothing and started to prepare for the trip to the Mountains of the Moon.

Mount Elgon

South Africa – Drakensberg (Mweni Pass)

My Dad was not impressed with his daughter who spent money to see the sunrise on a peak in Tanzania while she hadn’t set foot in our beautiful South African mountains.   

Therefore I didn’t hesitate when Sarel van Rensburg invited me to join them on a Drakensberg hike in July 2003. My “Camelman” I met on the airport in Tanzania 6 months ago had just broken my heart and it was therefore quite natural when I woke up in Mponjwane cave above the clouds (-10°) and burst out in tears.

Sarel van Rensburg en Harry Harke

Going down the pass was an awesome experience. The whole mountain was covered with tiny flowers and tears were streaming down my cheeks when I realised it was God’s bouquet of flowers. The other lady in our group was also crying—the mountain was just so amazing beautiful.

The two guys accompanying us just shook their heads.

My first encounter with the Drakensberg couldn’t have been better.

Since then, I have been back to the Drakensberg several times. Every time it is such a special experience and my heart fills with gratitude.