Uganda – Rwenzori - Mountains of the Moon - April 2004

Pushing the bus out of a ditch, bouncing around trying to avoid serious head collisions whilst the bus driver tried to avoid massive potholes and other crazy drivers made for yet another exciting trip.  Soon after we arrived at our overnight hotel, the rain started to pour down. It was going to be a very wet start.

Day 1:  It was quite a site to see - 12 Moonies, 38 porters, 6 guides, 2 cooks and 2 rangers trying to navigate the steep uphills and downhills to Nyabitaba camp.

Day 2:  Another exciting day of uphills, downhills, slippery rocks and rain followed.  Everyone got drenched, even the people wearing Mr Gortex’s gear!  The John Matte hut was a welcome site for most of us.  Some Moonies showed some initiative trying to get their clothes dry.  I can now proudly say that sleeping with smelly wet socks is something that  can be done!

Day 3:  Oh be scared!  Be VERY scared of the bog!  Just when I thought that everyone was exaggerating...  I saw people jumping excitedly from tussock to foothold - trying to avoid the deep portions of bog.  I took a step, and were buried in mud - hip deep!  Trying to claim my "Wellingtons" back, was quite a mission.  Whilst the rest of the Moonies rested at Bijuku camp, some starting to suffer from altitude or mountain sickness.  Piers, Stephen and myself visited the beautiful Glacial lakes.  That afternoon, crampons were tried on. I said a couple of prayers whilst I listened to the howling winds.

Day 4:  We woke up to winds, more drizzle and thick mist. A decision was made. 5 Moonies would hike to Kitandara camp whilst the rest would push on for high camp.  I was so excited. It was icy above 4000m and treacherous icy rock faces had to be faced. Porters and fellow Moonies alike fell and hypothermia became a big reality.  Moonies, porters and guides arrived at Elena Hut in dribs and drabs, shivering and shaking from the exertion and the demons we had to face. 

We all huddled together in our sleeping bags, unsure what the rest of the day would bring. And then there was a shout! The sun has just shown herself. The evening showed a clear sky, moon rising and a spectacular sunset.

Day 5:  At 04h00 in the morning, the Moonies in Kitandara awoke to hail on the roof of the hut.  At Elena hut, we geared ourselves with harnesses, crampons and ice-axes and, together with the guides, we tackled the glacier en route to Margherita. The mist was thick, and got even thicker. About a kilometre into the attempt, we had to abandon it. The equally tricky and icy descent down to Kitandara followed. I was not looking forward to sharing my sleeping bag with smelly wet socks again.

Day 6:  More bog followed on our way to Guy Yeoman hut, where everyone was in good spirit, listening to Tony’s tunes.

Day 7:  The 4 Moonies who were hiking two days in one to get off the mountain early made it down safely.  After they cleaned up they started enjoying liquid refreshments! The rest of the party walked as far as Nyabitaba camp at a leisurely pace.

Day 8:  While Ela recovered from the Altitude sickness with tea and some G&T Piers, Simon and myself boarded a bus and headed for the source of the Nile where a bungee jump and a river rafting trip on the Nile was followed by the party to end all parties.

Day 9: Another adventurous trip back to Kampala was followed by yet another party.

Day 10: I survived the Mountains of the Moon.  A big piece of my heart was left behind. Chris, our guide, could hardly believe his eyes when I started bawling when we said our goodbyes...