Lesotho – Drakensberg (Thaba Nthlenyana) - December 2004

31 December 2004:  After successfully squeezing Frans, Andre, Bernelle and myself (with our 4 backpacks) into my Fiat Uno 1100, our planned 17-day adventure in the Drakensberg officially started! 

We would do the Grand Traverse, starting at Bushmen’s neck and finishing at the Sentinal, We would sleep in caves and have one refuel at Sani Pass Top Chalet.  The excitement was contagious, even after we realised I had forgotten to book a cave and we had to change our route slightly.

1 January 2005:  An 11 hour, 14 km hike followed, where some frustration was felt by the others because I was adamant on finding caves, whilst the rest were slightly worried that we would not make it on time.

2 January 2005: Our hike started off misty and wet, hiking the 4 km that we could not fit in the previous day, past Tsepeng pass.  There were flowers everywhere and it took some concentration not to step on them. 

We continued on to Mzimkulu Pass, where we got slightly disorientated as the mist set in. When the mist got too dense, we pitched our tents. When the hail started, Frans announced that it’s whisky on ice time.  Since we had plenty whisky, I pulled out all the stops when it was my turn to make Irish coffee.

3 January 2005:  The wind and rain played ping-pong with us all night, with a huge thundering storm added for variation.  Starting out at 06h30, with clear skies, we made it to Sani Top Chalet by 14h30 where a ice-cold beer and Gluwein awaited.

Frans’s knee was acting up badly and he would not be able to continue hiking. This leaves the expedition count down to three. A meeting was called and the following things were discussed

• “Berg” rule is never hike with less than four people;  
• Security in Lesotho is an issue;
• The weather is unpredictable in summer;
• We completed only 49 of the 217 km planned, and we started off from the South, whereas it’s normally done from the North.

Just before a decision to do another two day hike with Lorna, Ian and Leslie to Thaba Nthlenyana was reached, a perfect rainbow showed itself and more drinks were ordered.

4 January 2005: We left at 08h30 and had a Basotho entourage all the way to the camp on the slope of Thaba Nthlenyana where we pitched our tents at 15h30 in the hail. Just to keep everyone amused, Andre had some fun by running naked in the hail.

5 January 2005: We woke up at 03h00 and reached the peak at 05h00, just in time for a spectacular sunrise. I was instantly forgiven for forcing everyone (except Ian and Leslie) to get up so early. 

After a hearty breakfast that Ian had waiting at the camp, we hiked back to Sani Top Chalet, chatting away. The spectacular view imprinted on our minds forever.

Back on the tar road, we stopped for lunch at Himeville, where very few windows had survived the hailstorm.