Nigeria – on our way from Cameroon to Togo

Once in Calabar, the waiting started again. When I tried to make the Customs queue more efficient (shouting id cards this side, passports this side and questioning everyone that looked like they were pushing in), Alan hissed at me 'mind your own business', so I tried to take a deep breath and be the most patient person in Africa. It was only later that I was informed that people were paying the security guy bribes to be let in by means of phone cards J

The immigration officer was very unhappy that I had been issued another visa. After making a statement about our journey and our religion, our pictures were taken and we given an ultimatum: “One week to get out of Nigeria or you will be arrested”.

People were shouting everywhere. The police demanded money. The union demanded money. After returning from a much needed toilet break, I discovered that our luggage was carried 20 meter to our waiting taxi by two guys, who demanded an exorbitant amount and another fight broke out. I got in the taxi, stuffed toilet paper in my ears and read my book until the fight was resolved. The guys were paid a fifth of what they wanted and we were finally on our way to Uyo. 

We had a very enthusiastic preacher with us who prayed for our safe journey. I joined him and prayed for calmness and the sensibility not to knock someone’s teeth out.

My resolution of not drinking any alcohol whilst on the trip was broken after I was offered an ice, ice cold beer. After watching the Michael Jackson video 4 times, Alan went with the bar tender looking for food.

At the food stall, the bar tender asked Alan if he had any medication on the trip. It was only after answering: “Yes, stuff for headaches and stomach” that he was handed a plate of custard and beans.

27 April: We were picked up by our driver at 06h00. By 08h30, we were still waiting, but luckily Alan and myself, being seasoned African travelers by now, could calm the Cameroonian’s traveling with us.

Our enthusiastic pastor started our journey singing and then prayed, asking God to protect the driver, the engine, the four wheels and us. He took his job seriously and after 4 hrs he asked a passenger to sing hymns, competing with the local radio.

It was a big relief to me since the couple behind me had been chewing bubblegum the past hours and the toilet paper I stuffed in my ears was not effective. It was very touching to see how the Cameroonian couple treated one another and their little boy. I have never seen a happier 5 month old boy.

We finally arrived in a very chaotic Lagos at 18h30. Rachel, a Cameroonian working in Ghana, was also going to Lome and arranged transport to the motor park where the taxis leave for Togo. At the hectic motor park, Alan and Rachel went looking for a money changer whilst I was left behind with the luggage and an extremely irate driver. It felt like ages, in which my imagination ran wild, before they returned.

Lagos was getting to everyone and instead of looking for accommodation for what was left of the evening, we bargained for a share taxi. Spread out on the bonnets of the taxis, Rachel, Alan and the group of young Nigerians talked politics and soccer whilst I was saying one prayer after another, hoping that my poor dad would never find out that his daughter was at that moment, stuck in a motor park in Lagos, surrounded by Nigerians.

28 April: We finally left Lagos at 00h30. The trip was not uneventful and we were stopped several times along the road. At the Benin border, the custom official asked Alan if didn’t have anything for him. Alan gave him N200 and he grabbed the other N200 as well. I felt like punching him.

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