South Africa – Drakensberg (Langalibalele Pass)

My trip to paradise started with an e-mail to my boss on Friday

-----Original Message-----
                        From:             Karen Hauptfleisch
                        Sent:              30 July 2004 09:46
                        To:                  XXXXXXXXX
                        Subject:        Mountains

Don't look for me after 10h00 - it's snowing on the mountains and they've been shouting since Wednesday. I’m just going for a quick hike up Giant's Castle. 

 Off course – we only got a peek of the castle the next morning after 7h00 while sipping some Wimpy coffee in Mooiriver trying to explain to a pale Ian (it must have been something he ate a few hours ago at Taps) why it was absolutely necessary to get up at 5h00. And since the grocery store only opens at 8h00 (and Ian forgot about food and a few other minor details such as benzene, Old Brown Sherry and that we were coming) we had to squeeze in a Wimpy breakfast as well.

And it was only after providing Ian with some anti-head-throbbing tablets and chatting to a group of Capetonian ice climbers heading for the frozen waterfalls in Giants Pass, that we started our hike up Langalibalele pass. Ian’s backpack was way too heavy and off course the fact that I gave him the tent to carry and the thirst he must have developed by now made for some interesting conversation.
We came across some Eland and baboons and after reaching the contour path (it’s 2km of unrelenting up hills) we took the recommended break and had some snacks (Which, thank goodness, left Ian with 2 liter water less to carry and us with another 4 km to go). And this is where the Strauss waltz got stuck in my head – I just wanted to waltz.  Andre declared that The Sound of Music’s song, something about “high on a hill is a lonely goat” was stuck in his head.

And then someone gave a shout (it could have been me) but there it was – snow. And all of a sudden Andre got his sense of humour back and me and Lorna got an instant snow-crazy buddy. (Mt Aconcagua here we come). 
Myself and Lorna in the snow
The rest of the way me, Lorna and Andre had permanent grins on our faces despite the climb (And I presume Ian was feeling much better since he was sprinting to the top). Once on top Ian suggested that we pitch the tent instead of hiking another kilometre to Bannerman’s cave (okay, so I do have an obsession about finding caves) since the mist was rolling in (and the chances of actually seeing the blue moon became slim.) And then the battle to get warm started…

Lorna and myself, admiring the blue moon
We put on dry clothes, pitched the tent, had some anti freeze and then everyone got in the sleeping bags to get warm. (I was giggling outside because I got to sit on Ian’s famous camping chair without him seeing me and then the nagging started.  “Fuzzy – get inside the bloody tent. Are you an ADD sufferer?“ “No Ian, I’m a Gemini so it’s NORMAL for me to have nervous energy” And then I finally got inside the tent and sleeping bag – and I really tried not to disturb everyone else (Yep – apparently everyone gets warned (I’m not saying by whom) not to share a tent with me because I have ants in my pants and a weak bladder).
Ian getting the coffee ready
And then the thought that I’m wasting my life sleeping made me grab my headlamp and I went for a walk. (Or was it my bladder?) It was really beautiful but all of a sudden I got this eerie feeling that made me want to run back to the tent so I turned around and ended up sitting in Ian’s chair starring at where the moon was supposed to be.


We decided to turn back shortly
after this photo was taken
And there she was in all her glory. It was awesome and (did I shout so loud?) Lorna, Ian and Andre rushed out of the tent. We took a stroll to the edge of the escarpment and sat there for a long time in silence admiring a view impossible to describe. My heart filled with gratefulness and my tears kept melting the snow. Gratefulness for being given the opportunity to witness the Berg covered in snow with the blue moon providing us with light. We hugged one another and decided it was time to stand on our head. After all, what are blue moons for?
The rest teamed up against me and I was told to get inside the tent again – which I did – but my heart stayed outside thinking that I might still convince one of them to join me in a nice summit a bit later on. Unfortunately the only reply I got during the night was “No, maybe a bit later” – and it was not coming from Ian or Andre. The next morning, I thought I’ll warm up by taking a nice stroll up a hill – big mistake since I don’t have snow boots but luckily I defrost quickly and Ian was so kind to sleep with my socks. Plus I got a foot rub. And then it was time for some inspection –
 
Things that froze (and they were inside the tent)
·    The boots
·    My shampoo
·    My cream
·    Ian’s socks
·    My waterbottles
·    My walking sticks
·    A part of my sleeping bag
Things that didn’t freeze
·     Lorna’s gaiters
·     The condensmelk
 
After melting some snow and having some soup/coffee we decided to go back via Bannerman’s pass. Ian had to be back by 13h00 and he headed down Langalibalele. It was great fun (and a good workout) getting to the top and after a while we decided to skip the caves and head straight for the pass). It was at about this stage that I decided to look where I’m going since I was getting tired trying to get up every time I fell and eventually we all came to the responsible conclusion that considering the weather it was maybe not such a bad idea to turn back and go down Langalibalele pass – which we did.
The part where I got lost and couldn’t get down because of steep cliffs? Well, no need to go into details but it convinced me not to go solo next year doing the 200km Berg traverse – so let me know which section you’re willing to hike with – and be aware that I have very little navigational skills…
 
My feeling about the hike? It was absolutely amazing!
 
Andre’s feelings? Ek is regtig op 'n "HIGH" hoor! Alles is nog steeds besig om in te sink...
 
Lorna’s feelings? Aaagh the photos came out great! It brings back such good memories! Thanks guys for a wonderful weekend. The good news is that my ankle is fine, it is not sore at all for which I am extremely grateful. I think it was that wonderful swim that did it so much good. Pity about the Moon photos but the memories will always be there.
 
Ian’s feelings? This is my church…..

Uganda – Rwenzori - Mountains of the Moon - April 2004

Pushing the bus out of a ditch, bouncing around trying to avoid serious head collisions whilst the bus driver tried to avoid massive potholes and other crazy drivers made for yet another exciting trip.  Soon after we arrived at our overnight hotel, the rain started to pour down. It was going to be a very wet start.

Day 1:  It was quite a site to see - 12 Moonies, 38 porters, 6 guides, 2 cooks and 2 rangers trying to navigate the steep uphills and downhills to Nyabitaba camp.

Day 2:  Another exciting day of uphills, downhills, slippery rocks and rain followed.  Everyone got drenched, even the people wearing Mr Gortex’s gear!  The John Matte hut was a welcome site for most of us.  Some Moonies showed some initiative trying to get their clothes dry.  I can now proudly say that sleeping with smelly wet socks is something that  can be done!

Day 3:  Oh be scared!  Be VERY scared of the bog!  Just when I thought that everyone was exaggerating...  I saw people jumping excitedly from tussock to foothold - trying to avoid the deep portions of bog.  I took a step, and were buried in mud - hip deep!  Trying to claim my "Wellingtons" back, was quite a mission.  Whilst the rest of the Moonies rested at Bijuku camp, some starting to suffer from altitude or mountain sickness.  Piers, Stephen and myself visited the beautiful Glacial lakes.  That afternoon, crampons were tried on. I said a couple of prayers whilst I listened to the howling winds.



Day 4:  We woke up to winds, more drizzle and thick mist. A decision was made. 5 Moonies would hike to Kitandara camp whilst the rest would push on for high camp.  I was so excited. It was icy above 4000m and treacherous icy rock faces had to be faced. Porters and fellow Moonies alike fell and hypothermia became a big reality.  Moonies, porters and guides arrived at Elena Hut in dribs and drabs, shivering and shaking from the exertion and the demons we had to face. 

We all huddled together in our sleeping bags, unsure what the rest of the day would bring. And then there was a shout! The sun has just shown herself. The evening showed a clear sky, moon rising and a spectacular sunset.

Day 5:  At 04h00 in the morning, the Moonies in Kitandara awoke to hail on the roof of the hut.  At Elena hut, we geared ourselves with harnesses, crampons and ice-axes and, together with the guides, we tackled the glacier en route to Margherita. The mist was thick, and got even thicker. About a kilometre into the attempt, we had to abandon it. The equally tricky and icy descent down to Kitandara followed. I was not looking forward to sharing my sleeping bag with smelly wet socks again.



Day 6:  More bog followed on our way to Guy Yeoman hut, where everyone was in good spirit, listening to Tony’s tunes.

Day 7:  The 4 Moonies who were hiking two days in one to get off the mountain early made it down safely.  After they cleaned up they started enjoying liquid refreshments! The rest of the party walked as far as Nyabitaba camp at a leisurely pace.

Day 8:  While Ela recovered from the Altitude sickness with tea and some G&T Piers, Simon and myself boarded a bus and headed for the source of the Nile where a bungee jump and a river rafting trip on the Nile was followed by the party to end all parties.

Day 9: Another adventurous trip back to Kampala was followed by yet another party.


Day 10: I survived the Mountains of the Moon.  A big piece of my heart was left behind. Chris, our guide, could hardly believe his eyes when I started bawling when we said our goodbyes...

Uganda – Mount Elgon – Wagagai Peak - April 2004

In April 2004, 11 intrepid explorers, nicknamed “Moonies” (for their desire to walk the mountains of the moon), ignored the news of violence in northern Uganda, and departed on a magical journey...  

Having “stumbled upon” them training for the hike in the Drakensberg earlier in December 2003, and unaware of any danger in Africa, I decided to join the 11 Moonies which were all members of ESSA (Exploration Society of South Africa).

The trip to Mt Elgon was not uneventful. Stephen’s luggage never made it to Entebbe airport That same evening, I stopped eating fish after a Tilapia with real eyes was  brought to me and, to everyone’s dismay, I refused to eat it.  My idea of fish was always that you buy it prepacked - coated in a nice batter and stuck it in the oven).

After two days of hiking, it was finally time to get up at what others might call an ungodly hour and head for Wagagai summit.  After the necessary pictures were taken, we headed back to Mude camp for breakfast.  I was feeling energized, so when Jackson’s peak was mentioned, I was able to convince one of the guides to take me there whilst the rest hiked back to camp for breakfast.

That evening, after some more trekking, Chris Muritti, our Kenyan Guide entertained us with some African rhythms played on Tony’s guitar.

The next morning after a fast trek down the mountain, "chapattis" at Rosie’s and a taxi ride back to Kampala, it was time for a well deserved bath!  We washed our clothing and started to prepare for the trip to the Mountains of the Moon.

Prentresultaat vir wagagai peak + karen
Mount Elgon