Zimbabwe – Mt Inyangani (Inyangani) and Mozambique – Chimanimani (Binga)

Zimbabwe – Mt Inyangani (Inyangani) and Mozambique – Chimanimani (Binga)

Going to Zimbabwe’s mountains seemed like a great idea. Visiting Mozambique’s highest peak via Zimbabwe made it seem like an even better idea! For more than a year, people have warned me not to go –so this time, I didn’t mention the trip to anyone. I found another mountain lover and we left Pretoria on the 25th at 22h00 with 145l petrol in jerry cans.

The Beit Bridge border experience was not that horrendous – we arrived at 03h00 and were on our way again by sunrise, having only paid R400 in total.

Then we were on our way to Nyanga.  Due to the shortage of petrol, there were not a lot of vehicles on the road and we were surrounded by beautiful mountains most of the way.

After paying our entrance fees at the Nyanga National Park, it took us 90 minutes minutes to get to the top of Mount Nyangani (2593m). Mount Nyangani is a charming "soft" shy mountain and clouds covered her most of the time. She was very clean and we only picked up a small bag of rubbish. An awfully big piece of my heart was left behind.

Touring through the Honde valley afterwards was spectacular.

The next morning we were up early but our plans to see the sun rise in the Vumba botanical gardens had to be postponed because of the mist/rain. We did spend some time with Wilfred Mbowa, the birding guide at the Leopard Rock Game Reserve and what a remarkable experience.

On our way to Mutare later that afternoon a speed cop jumped in front of us with the biggest smile I have seen on a person's face. He greeted us with "I'm going to lock you up". It was also the quickest I have seen someone's smile disappear when he noticed Wilfred in the vehicle with us. We paid R20 for driving 69km/h in a 60km/h zone.

The Chimanimani is raw beauty on a vast scale. We arrived at Chimanimani national park at 15h30 and because of the mist rolling in we pitched our tents at the car park.

The next morning we started our hike to Mt Binga at 08h00. We arrived at the spotlessly kept hut at 10h30. Two scouts came to chat to us and explained that the rifles they were carrying were meant to shoot the illegal miners, which left me speechless and feeling much safer J They told us that the path to the top was clearly marked and we should reach Mt Binga by 15h00.

When we were still hiking at 15h00 with Mt Binga nowhere in site we came to the mutual agreement that we were lost. We also agreed that we must have followed one of the thousands of paths made by the illegal miners (there were at least 15 of them panning for gold in the river but we didn't stay to find out if they were friendly). The mist was rolling in and taking Jimmy's thumb as a measuring tool, we came to the conclusion that we were very far off the map in Mozambique. Since we didn't have Mt Binga's coordinates, Jimmy decided to calculate it using his thumb, my hiking stick, a book and the waypoints of the hut and camp.

By 17h00 it was confirmed! We were totally lost. Keeping in mind the warning about the land mines we decided to pitch the tent in a spot we hoped were safe from the smugglers. We must have looked a sight moving around on the rocks trying to avoid "possible landmines". Once the mist cleared we were greeted by trillions of bright stars.

The sunrise was spectacular and we started our hike shortly afterwards. We followed a path going in the general direction of where we thought Mt Binga must lie and an hour later we were very close to the peak. We didn't read the manual properly and decided after an hour of struggling to get to the top that there must be an easier route. Walking around we soon found a clearly marked path – straight to the top! What a fine-looking site!

I did warn Jimmy that I can't help crying when I have to go down a beautiful mountain so he didn't seem very concerned when my tears came.   We were back at the camp by 15h00.

Chimanimani is a beautiful mountain and my only regret is that we didn't spend more time on her. The scouts keep her clean and we could only fill a small bag with rubbish – apparently left behind by the smugglers. According to the register the following hikers were on Chimanimani in 2006: 217 from Zimbabwe, 6 from South-Africa, 2 from England, 2 from Denmark, 3 from Finland, 4 from Italy, 2 from Israel, 1 from Germany, 1 from Netherlands and 1 from America.

Going through Beit Bridge on our way back was a pleasure. We went through at 6h00 and it took us no more than 20 minutes.

Botswana – Otse Hill (Mt Otse – or not)

Driving back from Namibia, we stopped in Botswana to climb to Mt Otse. What can I say. It took us two hours to find the mountain and by this time, Riaan and Glen have had enough of mountains. I was told to go on my own, which took me exactly 30 minutes. Since there was no-one to take a photo, I had to do that as well.

A year later, I discovered I have been to the wrong peak.

Namibia – Brandberg (Konïgstein) (Tsiseb route)

“Leave your 4 season tent behind – it never rains in Namibia”. Parting words of Frans and since he’s been to Namibia I left the tent, splash cover and general raingear. It never rains in Namibia…..

Two days before we left South Africa I booked a camping site via the internet and made some enquiries about guides. “Are you fit?” came the reply. I didn’t have time to explain about my genes and I told Riaan and Glen to get fit two months ago so I ignored Basil’s e-mail.

The guidebook mentioned guides at the tourist centre in Uis so we stopped there and met Siegfried – our soon to be guide. He informed me that we were planning to take the difficult route. Difficult equals scenic and after some deliberations with Glen and Riaan we decided to go scenic. It was not that difficult to convince Siegfried to take us on the scenic route.

Day 1: We forgot to set our watches according to Namibian time but Basil had a sense of humour when we woke him up at 5. Mmmmm, so it never rains in Namibia. Well, we had to improvise and 3 minute tents were packed and our hike started officially at 7 at the entrance to the White lady – in the rain.


8 hours later I didn’t dare ask if anyone lost their sense of humour. The normal scenic route was not so normal anymore with all the rain and we went up one mountain side, then down it just to go up again 10m further. Eleven hours of boulder hopping (most of it done in the rain that never falls in Namibia) started to take its toll. I had another spectacular fall and landed with my face in the sand.

I felt like Livingstone exploring – my legs were a network of scratches and I ended with several thorns stuck in them. The evening was spent in our minuscule tents listening to the rain wetting our sleeping bags.

Day 2: 8 o’clock at night and we were lying in our tents in wet sleeping bags watching the tents getting wetter and wetter.

We started our adventure at half past eight in order to try and get some of our stuff dry and nine hours of falling over boulders followed. Glen behaved the best when he lost his sense of humour. Myself? Let’s not elaborate. Riaan? It was hilarious. Our guide? The last I heard was “Your boots can stay outside in the rain” when I asked him to keep them in his tent.

The hike was the toughest one so far in Africa. Boulder after boulder made us doubt our guide’s sense of direction and left us with something to talk about in the future.

Something I definitely will recommend is long pants. Our casualties? I can’t pick up my leg – I suspect a pinched nerve. Siegfried – not sure but he’s freezing in his tent – no sense of humour. Glen – battling to walk – been chafed badly. Riaan? Besides almost fainting his back is killing him.

Day 3: “Ek is bo. Waar’s die helikopter. Wie’t gesê dis nie vir moffies nie. Kaseb se gat. Ons het Tsiseb se gat geskop” was Riaan’s entry in the journal on top op Konigstein.


We all got up at 4h30 and by 5h00 we were on our way. The sun started rising at 6h00. So we made one mistake. When I asked our guide if I can leave my backpack and run to the top his inappropriate reply “If you can find it again” made my sense of humour splatter down the mountain. I told him that I will find my own way to the top and that it was in his best interest to stay as far as possible from me. Riaan and Glen have decided to take their time with the ascent. When they finally arrived at 7h00, peace was restored and we spent two hours on the top drying our stuff.

When we asked Siegfried how long it will take to get down, he replied: 4 hours.

Four hours later we were at Longipools. His reply when asked how much further was – four hours! It is a beautiful mountain so I didn’t lose my sense of humour.

The descent was quite adventurous with loads of boulder hopping/climbing/crawling and every now and again a voice yelling “Siegfried, I’m stuck! Come help”



Four hours later, when the reply to the question “how far still to go” came, it was a good test of character. Another four hours which made our total hiking time for the day 10 hours. Basil was asked to wait at the camping site and a unanimous decision was made not to ask Siegfried how far still.

When it got dark and Glen and Riaan had to fall over the boulders because Riaan’s torch batteries were flat and Glen had to give Siegfried his, it was another test of character.

“Thirteen hours of challenging hiking and dear Basil waiting for us with an ice cold beer. I have never been so glad to see a vehicle! Brandberg is awesome!” - Karen

“I know why it’s inappropriate to hike with a gun – we would have been without a guide by the end of day two” – Riaan

“Awesome mountain – my first and an experience that I doubt can be bettered” - Glen

Kenya – Mount Kenya

Talk about coincidences!  At 7 o’clock on the 17th of February 2006 two Karens were picked up in a town called Karen by Chris Muriiti, the guide from Africa Big Mountains.

It’s difficult to decide which Karen was the craziest.
Karen G’s heart was broken. She used to be a climber but once her fiancée broke off their engagement, she made a decision never to climb again. Their honeymoon would have been on Mt Kenya.

Karen H’ heart was kinda broken. She climbed some small peaks before (1 pitch). She was supposed to get married on Mafadi and have her honeymoon on Mt Kenya. Although she has never climbed more than 1 pitch, she was determined to see the sunrise on Bation and Nelion.

The two Karen’s met for the first time at the airport on the 15th of February, where it was discovered that Karen G forgot to pay for the tickets she booked for the two of them.

On the 16th Chris took the two Karen’s to Hell’s gate. Karen H had to climb while Karen G did some bird watching and practised her Swahili. Karen H almost didn’t make it to Mt Kenya. When she got to the top of Hell’s gate, she got a whiff of Steven’s smelly feet. He used to be an officer in the army for 50 years and instead of retiring he decided to guard this particular peak. He had very specific ideas about climbing the peak.

17th: After picking up the two Belgians, Joke and Jaak, they travelled to Chogoria. It was an extremely bumpy road. Their first glimpse of the mountain was from afar, but they could see that she was on fire. Once they got to Bandas camp site they were fortunate to meet a bird lover and went exploring. Karen H had several panic attacks after she was told by the Americans that the climbs to Batian (5199m) and Nelion (5189m) were very exposed.

18th: Karen H woke the rest of the camp when she fell down a hill picking up litter. The Belgians, clearly affected by the altitude, warned her not to go to Mt Everest.

They were all a bit grumpy due to a lack of sleep. They were kept awake by the porters celebrating their descent and then at two o’clock they were entertained by the buffaloes snorting, eating and farting next to their tent.

Joke was definitely affected by the altitude. The hike to Lake Ellis took 6 hours instead of 3. Karen H refused to walk past litter and Karen G was taking pictures of the burned mountain and practising her Swahili, which clearly impressed the guides. Once at the Roadhead camp the porters were instructed to clean the camp and to burn the litter. By 19h45 everyone was ready for bed.


19th: Karen H felt a bit more comfortable climbing the peaks after watching the beautiful stars in the sky the previous night. She also decided against taking diamox since she was already slowing down the group by picking up litter. They left the camp by 8h00. They didn’t get far before it was decided that Chris would return with Joke. Apparently there are no mountains in Belgium. Karen G still impressed the locals with her Swahili. At 4200m the altitude was starting to affect everyone.

At Mintos hut Karen H had her usual bath before going on a cleaning spree. Karen G followed with her camera and her satellite phone. A decision was made – they would contact their “ex’s.”
20th: Karen H was ecstatic when two guides accompanied her and Jaak at 2:30 to watch the sun rise on Lenana (4995m). Because of the bright moon headlamps were unnecessary.

It was freezing and Jaak suffered. He said it was his first and last sunrise on a peak.

Karen H was in tears when the sun came out. 10 minutes later she was in tears again when she saw the litter on top of Lenana. Going back to camp the Jaak told the people they passed that the peak was closed due to all the litter. They congratulated Karen H on picking up their litter. Karen H was in tears again. This was the best sunrise she has ever experienced. She also had to say goodbye to Jaak who went to Shipton’s hut. The porter decided at this stage that the quickest way to get back to the camp was to help her pick up the litter.

After Breakfast Karen G went exploring while Karen H slept. When Karen G returned she could hear Karen H cursing. She has declared war against the people defecating all over Mt Kenya and was picking up their shit – zip lock bag firmly wrapped around her hand. She had these brilliant ideas for t-shirts: “If you are going to litter you are unfit to be on this mountain” and “Please don’t leave your s**t on our beautiful mountain”. One of the porters was helping her.

Karen H had mixed feelings about the mountain. There was the fire destroying the animals, the overwhelming sunrise and all the litter.

This Gheko survived!
21st:  Karen H exploded when she woke up to find new litter lying around. She confronted the family next to them who denied littering. At this stage she was on a mission. Karen G decided to join her in her effort and together they picked up two bags on their way to Austrian Hut.


The guide didn’t find it amusing when she told him that they must remove the plane wreck as well.

Karen H was petrified when she saw the two peaks but after practising her glacier hiking with Simon her technical climbing guide she felt more comfortable. How bad can 15 pitches be?

The two Karen’s were in bed by 8. Both experienced some difficulty breathing and woke up gasping for air.

22nd: Karen G left the hut at 3 to watch the sun rise on Lenana.  Karen H has crossed the glacier by 7. There was no turning back for her now. The first pitch was not bad, but she refuses to say anything after that one pitch. Approximately 15 pitches later (4 hours), she was on top of Nelion. The hut looked like a five star hotel

After the guide went to sleep she started picking up litter. The porters in Austrian hut looked through the binoculars and saw her picking up litter. “Mamma Taka Taka is picking up Taka Taka”, they shouted when Karen G got back. Soon the whole camp was transformed. Everyone was picking up litter.

The evening was spent in the hut melting ice. Karen H was gasping for breath and would swallow two panados at regular intervals. At 5189 m the altitude was affecting her.

23rd: Karen H experienced another wonderful Sunrise on an African Peak at 6h30. It took them 3 hours to abseil down with one Karrimore bag filled with litter and about two hours to cross the glacier. Back at Austrian hut the porters were running around showing her the bags of litter they picked up. Karen G was showing Karen H her scars she got hiking to Lenana. After lunch and a nice bath (Karen H was really ponging), the two of them started the hike to Shipton’s hut.

3 Bags of litter were picked up on their way and Karen H cried a lot. Shipton’s hut was a nice surprise. Huge hyraxes and rats were running around and they had an en suite “bathroom”

24th: After breakfast they started their hike to Old Moses hut. Loads of litter were collected. Once at the hut they met some crazy “hikers”. Some of them were on their way to Lenana with only a fancy jersey. They were obviously not going to make it to the top.

25th: It was only the porters and guide who were keen to go down. The two Karen’s were sad to leave the beautiful mountain. Everyone joined in picking up litter going down.

As soon as they were in the vehicle the mist rolled in and the mountain was covered.

It made the parting more bearable…..