Somalia - June 2019

As soon as the plane landed in Addis, I had to rush to the boarding gate to catch the connecting flight to Somalia. 

Fortunately I am extremely good at multitasking!  Tekkies, watch, money-belt, jacket and backpack off.... tekkies, watch, jacket and backpack on again... running to  the furthest boarding gate.  Trying to catch my breath, I  came to the horrible realisation that I never put my money-belt back on!  "Don't leave without me!" I shouted to the lady behind the check-out counter.  I sprinted back, cursing myself for being so unfit.  Someone shouted "Is this yours?". Very thankful and relieved I took the belt from my lifesaver.  Thank God!  The security guy wanted to know what the content of the moneybag was, but I was still too shocked to even reply!  Now I had to run back again, praying that they waited...  The rest of the group was waiting in the bus and cheering me on!  It may be that I am getting too old for this now, and my guardian angels probably need a break too!

Day 1: I won't call the Somali's overly patient,  There was a lot of hooting going on in traffic but maybe "Ramadan" should be blamed?  The dogs and cats were fat and looked very happy. 

After a restless night, we visited the live-stock market where I had the opportunity to take one photograph of a lady.

The camel market 
Fasaal (my ONE and only military escort), Jamaal (my friendly and loyal guide) and myself fastened our seat belts, and we started our trip to Berbere.  As usual, I had no clue as to how long it would take, but when I looked at all the 'mosquito'-proof tents along the way I was grateful for the insect repellent that I remembered to pack.  When Jamaal stopped to put new wiper blades on the vehicle, I realised that I actually remembered my rain jacket, and I was overjoyed!  I got the feeling that this trip was going to get very interesting.... 

After our visit to the rock painting in Las Geel where a nice shower surprised us, we got to the first bridge just to discover that the 'shower' was extensive and the first bridge was flooded. After two hours the first 4X4 crossed the river. The 400 drivers and passengers next to the river all cheered and the vehicles honked. And then chaos reigned when 50 buses, 4X4's and trucks fought to cross the river from both sides. Phew! 

We had to wait two hours before we could cross the river
I was just getting comfortable when we arrived at the next bridge - same story! My soldier told me ' relax - we will be able to cross in an hour!' Unfortunately it was impossible to relax. My bladder was full, there were no bushes in site, I was surrounded by at least 200 people and because they were all fasting I think I was the only one with a problem. 

One of the colourful houses in Somaliland
After 2 hours Jamaal miraculously got us out of the queue and we headed back to a small village so they could eat. Needless to say the first thing I did was empty my bladder. After another 2 hours we headed back to the bridge where about 200 people were shouting and half of the trucks were still waiting. 2 cars have been washed away and everyone came to the rescue! Luckily no one was hurt. After 30 minutes the first truck came passed and from then it was honking and cheering as every vehicle crossed safely. I think I have had enough cheering for now. My nerves! I stayed in a lovely room – the only challenge was that they must have fumigated the room two hours before I arrived and the only victim besides myself was one lonely cockroach. 

I thought this was lovely
Day 2: I guess when its Ramadan you should not expect breakfast at 7. But I was grateful for the watermelon and hoped for a day without any cheering.

The drive to Sheik was spectacular and I was in my element amongst the mountains. Visiting old buildings, museums etc. is not my thing so I did not appreciate the ruins of Ferdusa, much to my guide’s surprise.

I was, however very happy to meet some locals and promised to stop for a henna painting when we go back.

The Washigton beauty salon
And once in Buaro I was grateful for a day without cheering.

I suffer from Misophonia and underwent intensive therapy when the urge to strangle people chewing loudly got overwhelming. So when a packet of bubblegum was produced, I took it as a sign to see if the therapy was successful. Luckily the amount of potholes and the blowing wind assisted. 

I really enjoyed the ride. There were mountains all around us, amazing birds and even some wildlife. We also crossed a huge 'lake'. Jamaal said he's never seen so much water in Somaliland at that spot but we made it through. I was just telling myself that I must get over my 'fear' of 4X4 'ing when we started to skid. And stuck we got for sure. In clay! An old man came to our rescue and whilst the 3 men were digging, I carried stones to the scene.

But it was hopeless and Jamaal said he called for backup. I was expecting another 4X4 but two rather strange guys came walking towards us carrying shovels. The next minute the one strange newcomer got down and started to dig whilst chanting. He was working like someone possessed. We have been stuck for almost 3 hours and I considered chanting myself. We were still 350 km from our destination and I knew my boss would kill me if I missed my flight - again!


After another hour of digging we finally managed to get the vehicle out and everyone cheered. Me the loudest. Feeling very chuffed we dropped them off close to their homes before travelling further. All was well in Africa. And maybe I should go and she a therapist about my fear of 4X4 ing.  

After 4 hours of digging, we were finally ready to go
Day 3:  Jamaal arrived with bad news. The General refused to allow us to go to Mt Simbris. A local was shot the day before. According to Jamaal, one clan was against any resources being mined. Their chief did not trust the government, the army or any foreigner and a white face was the last thing they wanted to see. It would take at least two weeks for things to settle down. 


Two little owls sitting on a pile of rocks
The next best was Daallo. My heart felt heavy but I made a conscious decision to make the best of the situation. The second I looked up I spotted two tiny owls and I enjoyed the rest of the 4X4 trip to the top where I was honoured to have two red wing starlings sharing my picture with the South African flag on top.  I also started to notice all the wild life and the beautiful trees. 

A red wing starling was sitting in the tree behind me


It was not my idea.  If Fazel slipped .........
It was another long 2 day stretch back to Hargeisa but luckily we had the mountains surrounding us and no more floods. 

I was extremely impressed with the friendly people, the fact that almost 99% of the payments were done by phone and of course, the colorfulness of the houses, vehicles and the people.

Even the petrol stations were painted in bright colours
One of the colourful vehicles on the roads
I always collect stones on my visits to the mountains in Africa but people at work started asking for souvenirs so I collected more than 30 small stones.  Together with the two beaten up tea kettles I picked up along the way, this caused havoc at the airport after my bag went through 3 scanning machines.  When confronted, I had to reluctantly leave behind the beautiful stones I picked up.


A kettle I picked up on the rubbish dump!  Nice holder for plants