Malawi – Cape Mclear

Our first day in Cape Mclear: I went hiking with Dan who insisted on getting us snorkeling gear for the afternoon. Unfortunately Biscuit discovered that he was asking more than double the normal rate and that was the end of any future business deals with him. He refused to give our money back and from then on we were known as the two bitches. But we did get our snorkeling stuff and went to Otter’s point. (Did I mention that she’s an attorney)

I got a bit sunburned and after watching Biscuit eat some local fish (she claims she’s never tasted better fish) and howl at the full moon, I went to bed. There was a huge party on at Fat Monkeys and after a while Biscuit and Amy decided they can’t sleep with all the music and rowed over – whether to tell them to turn the volume down a bit or join the party I still don’t know. And they weren’t back for two minutes on the island before the music was turned up again.

The 4^th day:  I think after four days in Cape Mclear I’ve got into the Africa rhythm. My plan was to swim to Fat Monkeys and back but after swimming for about 200m I turned back to get the boat and to do some bird watching. And after a bit of snorkelling and watching the sun rise Amy got us some fish to feed the fish eagles and it was really awesome to watch the magnificent birds. 

After we got back to Fat Monkeys, we met Darren, a fellow South African working in Blantyre. Biscuit had her hair braided and after several hours we decided to stay over for another night. After several Kuches we all went to Thomas’s for something to eat. But Central Africa got to us and instead of walking we drove with Darren’s nice 4X4.

The 5^th day: Everyone was just hanging around – and when the roof of the kitchen started to burn everyone carried on as if nothing happened and 10 minutes later the cook was back in his kitchen.

On our way back, Darren was kind enough to take us for a hike in Zomba. He was also kind enough to let us stay at his place and took us to the airport the next day. What an adventurous trip!

Malawi – Our trip from Blantyre to Cape Mclear

It was 10h30, Central Africa time and we were sitting in a minibus trying to get from Blantyre to Cape Mclear in Malawi, squashed in with 18 fellow Africans. The wind was blowing through my hair, UB 40 was singing Songs of Jamaica and I was thinking that I really love Africa.

I also thought we got the general idea at last – rather get squashed in from the start – no need to delude yourself by thinking you might get a double seat – no sir. I have also discovered that 65% of the men in Malawi are either called Patrick or Moses. Well, Moses from Blantyre (don’t get confused with the Moses from Mulanje or the Moses from Limbe etc etc) got us onto a minibus and after being dropped off at some village, we asked a shopkeeper where we could get a minibus to Cape Mclear and after a short walk through town with our escort (Patrick from Limbe of course) (I presume it depends on how you look at it and on how heavy your bag is) we were on our way to Monkey Bay.

The driver stopped every now and again and more people got inside. And there we were – two South African girls stuck in the back of a minibus and wham, the boot got opened and a black plastic bag filled with fish was hauled on top of our backpacks – which also meant on top of Fluff, my mascot that was stuck to my backpack. The driver kept on stopping and more and more people got in the minibus, and at one stage there were no place in the minibus so people were hanging on the door of the minibus. Biscuit was really looking pale and when she announced that there’s no ways Fluff could have survived the fish smell I laughed so much the tears rolled down my cheeks. But we stopped again and this time the plastic bag with fish was tied to the back of the minibus and Biscuit got some color back.

At one stage there were 25 of us inside the minibus plus the luggage and two people were hanging on the door. UB 40 was still singing the same songs and just when we got to the “I can’t count anymore” stage two more plastic bags with fish got hauled inside and Biscuit went pale again.

Suddenly the fish that was tied to the back of the minibus flew off and we had to turn around. I really felt sorry for the guy whose fish it was, but not for long because the driver reversed and the rescued fish was put next to us in the minibus.

The driving, UB40 singing, the driver stopping, reversing, continued while more and more people got into the minibus and by this time we had three plastic bags filled with fish with us in the minibus.

After 5 hours of traveling my bladder started to ache, but Africa is one tough continent and as soon as we stopped in Mangotsi we were forced onto a pickup truck with the promise of a direct lift to Cape Mclear. Biscuit’s started to have serious doubts when she was told to sit on the side but we had already paid and she had to be happy with a guy sitting almost on top of her head. The driver only left when there were 17 people in the back of the bakkie (don’t forget their luggage and the sugar cane). And yes – we were forced to stand when there were 24 people in the back - but at least we had some breathing space and no fish got on the pickup with us. And after what felt like ages we reached Monkey Bay – and the driver informed us that we had to catch yet another minibus. It was at this stage that Biscuit threw her toys out the cot (it helped because we got half our money back) and I went in search of something resembling a toilet.

And thanks to Biscuit who asked a local to take pity on two helpless ladies from South Africa we arrived at Fat Monkeys two hours later – just in time to see yet another sunset in Africa.

Malawi – Mulanje (Sapitwa)

From two to four, five, seven, five, four and then eventually two – that was the amount of people planning to travel together to Malawi at various stages. But on the 17^th of March after a crazy drive to the Johannesburg airport (Frans took us sightseeing trying to avoid the peak hour traffic and he did a splendid job) – we finally made it in the nick of time. (Marianne aka Biscuit had the savvy to call ahead and tell someone -I’m still not sure who – to hold the plane).

Three hours later we were in a taxi on our way to Blantyre. And then African time set in. We were told that a bus to Mulanje would arrive at 13h00 and since then the only answer we got irrespective of the question was “the bus is coming”.  But we’re fellow African’s so I studied the bird book and Biscuit learned Chichewa. Unfortunately I’m also a Gemini and my bum was really getting sensitive so we phoned Moses from Mulanje (the local guys are either called Moses or Patrick) who came to our rescue and the next moment we were in a minibus to Limbe.

From Limbe we took another minibus to Chitakali where Patrick from Mulanje picked us up and took us to Likhubula Forest Lodge (I definitely recommend a 4X4 for this stretch) where we watched a spectacular sunset at the pools close by. Afterwards it was time to pitch the tent while Patrick arranged the porters and guide. Mmmmm – exactly one day to get to Mulanje - not bad for two girls traveling on their own I would say. 

By 5h30 the next day we were ready for the rolling hills and soaring peaks and got to the C.C.A.P hut at 12h20. I went bird watching while Biscuit did her favorite thing – chatting to the people. At 15h00 we went to Linje pools where Biscuit danced naked on Lichenya plateau and declared that she’ll make sure that I get sponsors for my African peaks – if not from First Ascent, then from Playboy. What a great traveling partner.

The one moment we were still watching the sunset and the next Pierre our guide got us all running like headless chickens because of the threatening rain.

All the talking about the spirits leaving bananas on Sipetwa (Sipetwa means “don’t go there”) had quite an effect on my dreams and when I woke up it was misty and Biscuit decided that she was better off in bed but by 6h30 we were on our way and what a spooky hike it turned out to be. The mist rolled in without warning and at one place we were surrounded by thousands of spider webs and all the trees were covered with old man’s beard. It is definitely a place to shoot a horror movie.

We arrived at the shelter around 12h30 and by 14h00 we were on our way to camp 10 minutes from Sipetwa. Akin (a guide) started laughing at me when I put my backpack on and said people don’t go up to Sipetwa with a backpack (well, not a 80 liter one). But he was obviously not aware of the fact that my forefathers went barefoot over the Drakensberg so there we were. But I must admit I had some narrow escapes since it was extremely slippery and the weight of the backpack made rock jumping extremely difficult.

It was also very difficult to stop falling and Pierre had to help me up several times after a fall. But I did feel a lot better after being informed by Biscuit that I definitely won’t bleed to death and that Pierre didn’t actually save my life several times – I might have just broken a couple of bones. No big deal.

After two hours of climbing (falling) and a lot of huffing and puffing (did I mention that it was raining), two guys came sliding past us. They stopped just long enough to inform us that we had to turn back since it was raining cats and dogs on top so we were forced to turn back. It was only after several more falls that Pierre insisted on swopping backpacks with me and it made a huge difference. I was still slipping but this time I was not falling head over heals because of the heavy backpack. It was still raining when we got back to the shelter.

After 10 hours of hiking – the last 4 serious (it’s no joke on top when it rains), sunrise on Sipetwa the next morning seemed impossible. Mulanje has claimed several lives in the past and after Linda, a girl from Holland, disappeared mysteriously two years ago the guides were instructed not to go to the top in the dark or when it rains. After supper everyone sat around the fire trying to dry their clothes. I don’t think anyone slept well that night because of the cold.

At 7 the next morning Pierre and I were on our way to the top – this time with only our raingear and water in a daypack. The climb up to the top involved some tree climbing, caving (that’s what it felt like), tree hugging, mud dodging, rock climbing and a lot of huffing and puffing. I actually can’t believe I tried it with a 80liter backpack the previous day.

Once on top I took some pictures and then it was time for some nice bum slides down. And it was only now that I realized why the German and guide didn’t stop the previous day to help us.

Back at the shelter we had something to eat and were informed that Biscuit and the two porters only left at 10h30 and by now I was absolutely positive that Pierre didn’t see me take some anti-inflammatory since he just about ran to the other hut. On the way there we had some lovely river crossings and passed beautiful pools but I was glad to see the hut and take off my wet boots. We sat around chatting while Pierre had a nap and then we walked down to Elephant head for a nice sunset. It was not long before we ran back, the rain pouring down. 

The next morning we got going around 6h30 and it was a lot of downhill but we had an orchestra of birds encouraging us and were picked up by Patrick from Mulanje at 10. After a shower he drove us to town where we first caught a minibus to Limbe and then one to Blantyre. My bum was still sensitive after the previous ride in the minibus and being squashed in the back with 5 other people didn’t improve the situation but we survived. Getting into the second minibus I learned a valuable lesson. I thought for 5 seconds that I had the whole front seat to myself but the next moment I was squashed between the driver, my 80 liter backpack and a guy whose breakfast I could smell the whole way.

But things can get worse – the poor guy next to me had his nose stuck in my armpit the whole way – and something very similar to luckyboy was the only soap we could get in Malawi. But then we all know Africa’s a tough continent…..

The Mulanje Massif, to me, is a harsh, mysterious mountain, especially if the mist comes rolling in. She has claimed several lives and nowadays it is compulsory to take a guide. I would definitely recommend using porters. The Malawians are extremely poor and the strong guys can consider using a porter as charity. We got excellent service from Patrick and Moses from Mulanje (Tiyende Pamodzi Adventures) who organized the porters and who arranged for us to become “honorary members” of the mountain club. The mountain is extremely clean thanks to a conservation trust.

South Africa – Drakensberg (Mafadi)

Day 1 - Injisuthi Camp (1500m) - Centenary hut (2200m): I was ‘ooohing’ and ‘aahhing’ all the way from Pretoria to Injisuthi hutted camp. We left after 4 and had the full moon, the rising sun and all the birds perched on the telephone lines to gawp at. And then it was the beautiful mountains. My estimated "walk in the park” - only 10km and a 700m ascent turned out to be 5 hours of serious huffing and puffing and some nice river crossings. Boy - was I glad to see the hut. After pitching the tents Ian started the meal - pasta, bacon and eggs. Since he always insists on hiking in style, loads of luxuries were dragged up. Nope - crazier they don't come - but there is definitely some improvement. The 5 bottles of red wine and the deck chair were left behind on this hike. Some really tired people had some Irish coffee and then I crawled into my newly acquired tent. And I could not have wished for better testing weather. At one stage I thought Bernelle and I were going to be blown off the hill but we survived - and most importantly - we remained dry (PS: Ear plugs should accompany tent when the wind is howling). The next day I was informed that I should pitch my tent parallel to gullies.

Our first river crossing

Day 2 - Centenary hut (2200m) - somewhere in Lesotho (+- 3000m): The huffing and puffing started almost immediately and when we reached Corner pass Ian declared me officially crazy for choosing this specific route. We stopped for tea on some obscure spot and then everyone seemed to notice that I was a bit pale. I was disorientated, nauseous and everything looked red to me.

Luckily I was declared fit by Bernelle after informing her that the grass still looked green and by the time we were forced to take shelter I was feeling on top of the world again. Ropes were pulled out a couple of times - whether it was necessary or just for moral support - it worked and after 7 hours we were finally on top of Corner Pass. It took us another two hours of hiking in the mist before we decided to pitch the tents.

Going up via Corner pass

Waiting for the hail storm to stop

We had different opinions:

• I said I knew we were either in South Africa or Lesotho
• Bernelle thought we weren't in Swaziland (or Switzerland for that matter)
• Ian thought we were close to Mafadi and
• Harry's gps said we were only 700m away from corner pass. That evening while Ian made supper, Harry asked
• me why we punish ourselves like this.

The next day after intensive map reading and scouting it was decided that Harry’s GPS was right. We had been walking around in circles.

Day 3 - somewhere in Lesotho - top of Leslie Pass: Ian and I spend some time looking for Injusiti cave. At one stage we met a Basutu and he indicated that Mafadi was west - but alas - Harry's gps said Mafadi was about 100m east - and voila - what a magnificent sight. There were a lot of birds of prey circling around and after something hot on South Africa's highest peak we started looking for the Injusiti summit cave - another splendid sight.

Injasuthi Cave

And seeing that we were all so very fit (sic) we decided to take a scenic route to Leslie's pass and 9 hours after packing up our tents we pitched it again. (And no - I was not grumpy when I sneaked off to go and have an ice cold swim after Ian refused to give me some hot water for my usual bath - I was being considerate towards Harry – he’s not used to swearing females.)

Day 4 - Leslie Pass - Injusiti hutted camp (8 hours). It was absolutely breathtaking once on top of Leslie's pass and between all the tears I could finally answer Harry's question. I just wish more people can experience the breathtaking beauty of the Berg. We were on top of the clouds for at least 2 hours before the mist rolled in. The sound affects following every fall was quite something considering that Ian's one fall was the only ungracious one I saw. But we all survived the scree and rock scrambling and Bernelle got her picture taken in the Marble bath pools. While the rest were having lunch I went to inspect Marble Cave - and when I informed them that the sign said it was Grindstone Cave, Bernelle just shook her head - I don't think anyone would have been surprised if we were in the wrong pass - but it turned out that someone switched the signs and that for once we were where we thought we were.

Mafadi

Lesotho – Drakensberg (Thaba Nthlenyana) - December 2004

31 December 2004:  After successfully squeezing Frans, Andre, Bernelle and myself (with our 4 backpacks) into my Fiat Uno 1100, our planned 17-day adventure in the Drakensberg officially started! 

We would do the Grand Traverse, starting at Bushmen’s neck and finishing at the Sentinal, We would sleep in caves and have one refuel at Sani Pass Top Chalet.  The excitement was contagious, even after we realised I had forgotten to book a cave and we had to change our route slightly.

1 January 2005:  An 11 hour, 14 km hike followed, where some frustration was felt by the others because I was adamant on finding caves, whilst the rest were slightly worried that we would not make it on time.

2 January 2005: Our hike started off misty and wet, hiking the 4 km that we could not fit in the previous day, past Tsepeng pass.  There were flowers everywhere and it took some concentration not to step on them. 

We continued on to Mzimkulu Pass, where we got slightly disorientated as the mist set in. When the mist got too dense, we pitched our tents. When the hail started, Frans announced that it’s whisky on ice time.  Since we had plenty whisky, I pulled out all the stops when it was my turn to make Irish coffee.

3 January 2005:  The wind and rain played ping-pong with us all night, with a huge thundering storm added for variation.  Starting out at 06h30, with clear skies, we made it to Sani Top Chalet by 14h30 where a ice-cold beer and Gluwein awaited.

Frans’s knee was acting up badly and he would not be able to continue hiking. This leaves the expedition count down to three. A meeting was called and the following things were discussed

• “Berg” rule is never hike with less than four people;  
• Security in Lesotho is an issue;
• The weather is unpredictable in summer;
• We completed only 49 of the 217 km planned, and we started off from the South, whereas it’s normally done from the North.

Just before a decision to do another two day hike with Lorna, Ian and Leslie to Thaba Nthlenyana was reached, a perfect rainbow showed itself and more drinks were ordered.

4 January 2005: We left at 08h30 and had a Basotho entourage all the way to the camp on the slope of Thaba Nthlenyana where we pitched our tents at 15h30 in the hail. Just to keep everyone amused, Andre had some fun by running naked in the hail.

5 January 2005: We woke up at 03h00 and reached the peak at 05h00, just in time for a spectacular sunrise. I was instantly forgiven for forcing everyone (except Ian and Leslie) to get up so early. 

After a hearty breakfast that Ian had waiting at the camp, we hiked back to Sani Top Chalet, chatting away. The spectacular view imprinted on our minds forever.

Back on the tar road, we stopped for lunch at Himeville, where very few windows had survived the hailstorm.

Swaziland – Emlembe, Sibebe and Malelotja

Someone predicted bad weather for the weekend but I spend at least 2 hours on the net surfing for a weather-site predicting sunny weather – and voila – how bad can a cloud with one tiny drop somewhere in the distance be?

At 14h00 Bernelle, Frans, Lorna, Andre and myself were on our way in our two Uno 1100's to the Kingdom of Swaziland. We spend the night at Legends-a backpackers lodge with some very interesting characters and were woken at 2h00 by that one drop (that quickly turned into millions of big drops. But not to worry – when our guide turned up at 3h30 the weather was perfect and we were off - to climb the second largest rock mass in the world - Sibebe.

We didn’t get very far when Nthulani informed us that the rock was too slippery and that we had to turn back – so Lorna and I ended up watching birds and the other three had a rest. And then we were off to do some adventure caving.  Swaziland is really a beautiful place and after the caving we were soaking wet and we had a nice “swim” in the cuddle puddle close to Legends.

We had to abandon our mission

Then we were off again – by now the rocks were mostly dry – but what a mental challenge!  A little voice inside my head kept telling me that it was absolutely impossible to get to the top without ropes – luckily Fluff was brave (maybe because she could not turn around?) and I had some serious conversations with myself (one shuffle at a time/don’t look down/you can do it/are you $#@ crazy!!! etc.)

It's a long way down

Once on top it took me a while to get my knees to stop shaking (and to find Bernelle who fell in love with the place and went exploring).  Finally the adventure started...  We took a different route down and had some nice "bum slides". 


We also had to squeeze through a beautiful cave where I donated some skin.  Once down everyone agreed that it was a mind over matter thing – it seemed quite possible when you’re at the bottom but half way up you get a closer look and it is quite freaky!  

We all made it!

And that was the Sibebe challenge. 

We packed and headed for Malelotja but we missed the turn-off and spend the night camping outside Piggs Peak. It started raining but we were getting very good at pitching the tents in the rain.

The next morning I got the distinct feeling that some senses of humour were a bit lost but we headed for Bulwer in any case (it was only drizzling). What a nice surprise. We were able to get hold of a guide and the hike up to Emlembe (The highest peak in Swaziland) was - although a bit rushed - great.

The start of our hike to the top of the mountain

On the way to Malelotja, some people got into a better mood after being fed but I got a bit grumpy because no one wanted to stop to do some bird watching. Malelotja is a beautiful place, the campsites are awesome and we had a great time around the fire.

Monday morning Frans and myself followed Bernelle to the Malelotja falls where she discovered the adventurous mushroom route.  Another challenging hike back to the campsite followed with heavy lightning striking, just to discover that our dry clothes and hot food were locked in my car and that the keys were somewhere on a game drive.  Eventually, everyone calmed down after 2 hours when Andre and Lorna arrived back and we enjoyed a hot shower/something hot to eat/the birds and a final whisky in our coffee before we headed back to the rat race.

On top of Swaziland's highest peak

South Africa – Drakensberg (Langalibalele Pass)

My trip to paradise started with an e-mail to my boss on Friday

-----Original Message-----

                        From:             Karen Hauptfleisch

                        Sent:              30 July 2004 09:46

                        To:                  XXXXXXXXX

                        Subject:        Mountains

Don't look for me after 10h00 - it's snowing on the mountains and they've been shouting since Wednesday. I’m just going for a quick hike up Giant's Castle. 

 Off course – we only got a peek of the castle the next morning after 7h00 while sipping some Wimpy coffee in Mooiriver trying to explain to a pale Ian (it must have been something he ate a few hours ago at Taps) why it was absolutely necessary to get up at 5h00. And since the grocery store only opens at 8h00 (and Ian forgot about food and a few other minor details such as benzene, Old Brown Sherry and that we were coming) we had to squeeze in a Wimpy breakfast as well.

And it was only after providing Ian with some anti-head-throbbing tablets and chatting to a group of Capetonian ice climbers heading for the frozen waterfalls in Giants Pass, that we started our hike up Langalibalele pass. Ian’s backpack was way too heavy and off course the fact that I gave him the tent to carry and the thirst he must have developed by now made for some interesting conversation.

We came across some Eland and baboons and after reaching the contour path (it’s 2km of unrelenting up hills) we took the recommended break and had some snacks (Which, thank goodness, left Ian with 2 liter water less to carry and us with another 4 km to go). And this is where the Strauss waltz got stuck in my head – I just wanted to waltz.  Andre declared that The Sound of Music’s song, something about “high on a hill is a lonely goat” was stuck in his head.

And then someone gave a shout (it could have been me) but there it was – snow. And all of a sudden Andre got his sense of humour back and me and Lorna got an instant snow-crazy buddy. (Mt Aconcagua here we come). 

Myself and Lorna in the snow

The rest of the way me, Lorna and Andre had permanent grins on our faces despite the climb (And I presume Ian was feeling much better since he was sprinting to the top). Once on top Ian suggested that we pitch the tent instead of hiking another kilometre to Bannerman’s cave (okay, so I do have an obsession about finding caves) since the mist was rolling in (and the chances of actually seeing the blue moon became slim.) And then the battle to get warm started…

Lorna and myself, admiring the blue moon

We put on dry clothes, pitched the tent, had some anti freeze and then everyone got in the sleeping bags to get warm. (I was giggling outside because I got to sit on Ian’s famous camping chair without him seeing me and then the nagging started.  “Fuzzy – get inside the bloody tent. Are you an ADD sufferer?“ “No Ian, I’m a Gemini so it’s NORMAL for me to have nervous energy” And then I finally got inside the tent and sleeping bag – and I really tried not to disturb everyone else (Yep – apparently everyone gets warned (I’m not saying by whom) not to share a tent with me because I have ants in my pants and a weak bladder).

Ian getting the coffee ready

And then the thought that I’m wasting my life sleeping made me grab my headlamp and I went for a walk. (Or was it my bladder?) It was really beautiful but all of a sudden I got this eerie feeling that made me want to run back to the tent so I turned around and ended up sitting in Ian’s chair starring at where the moon was supposed to be.

We decided to turn back shortly
after this photo was taken

And there she was in all her glory. It was awesome and (did I shout so loud?) Lorna, Ian and Andre rushed out of the tent. We took a stroll to the edge of the escarpment and sat there for a long time in silence admiring a view impossible to describe. My heart filled with gratefulness and my tears kept melting the snow. Gratefulness for being given the opportunity to witness the Berg covered in snow with the blue moon providing us with light. We hugged one another and decided it was time to stand on our head. After all, what are blue moons for?

The rest teamed up against me and I was told to get inside the tent again – which I did – but my heart stayed outside thinking that I might still convince one of them to join me in a nice summit a bit later on. Unfortunately the only reply I got during the night was “No, maybe a bit later” – and it was not coming from Ian or Andre. The next morning, I thought I’ll warm up by taking a nice stroll up a hill – big mistake since I don’t have snow boots but luckily I defrost quickly and Ian was so kind to sleep with my socks. Plus I got a foot rub. And then it was time for some inspection –

 

Things that froze (and they were inside the tent)

·    The boots

·    My shampoo

·    My cream

·    Ian’s socks

·    My waterbottles

·    My walking sticks

·    A part of my sleeping bag

Things that didn’t freeze

·     Lorna’s gaiters

·     The condensmelk

 

After melting some snow and having some soup/coffee we decided to go back via Bannerman’s pass. Ian had to be back by 13h00 and he headed down Langalibalele. It was great fun (and a good workout) getting to the top and after a while we decided to skip the caves and head straight for the pass). It was at about this stage that I decided to look where I’m going since I was getting tired trying to get up every time I fell and eventually we all came to the responsible conclusion that considering the weather it was maybe not such a bad idea to turn back and go down Langalibalele pass – which we did.

The part where I got lost and couldn’t get down because of steep cliffs? Well, no need to go into details but it convinced me not to go solo next year doing the 200km Berg traverse – so let me know which section you’re willing to hike with – and be aware that I have very little navigational skills…

 

My feeling about the hike? It was absolutely amazing!

 

Andre’s feelings? Ek is regtig op 'n "HIGH" hoor! Alles is nog steeds besig om in te sink...

 

Lorna’s feelings? Aaagh the photos came out great! It brings back such good memories! Thanks guys for a wonderful weekend. The good news is that my ankle is fine, it is not sore at all for which I am extremely grateful. I think it was that wonderful swim that did it so much good. Pity about the Moon photos but the memories will always be there.

 

Ian’s feelings? This is my church…..