Uganda – Rwenzori - Mountains of the Moon - April 2004

Pushing the bus out of a ditch, bouncing around trying to avoid serious head collisions whilst the bus driver tried to avoid massive potholes and other crazy drivers made for yet another exciting trip.  Soon after we arrived at our overnight hotel, the rain started to pour down. It was going to be a very wet start.

Day 1:  It was quite a site to see - 12 Moonies, 38 porters, 6 guides, 2 cooks and 2 rangers trying to navigate the steep uphills and downhills to Nyabitaba camp.

Day 2:  Another exciting day of uphills, downhills, slippery rocks and rain followed.  Everyone got drenched, even the people wearing Mr Gortex’s gear!  The John Matte hut was a welcome site for most of us.  Some Moonies showed some initiative trying to get their clothes dry.  I can now proudly say that sleeping with smelly wet socks is something that  can be done!

Day 3:  Oh be scared!  Be VERY scared of the bog!  Just when I thought that everyone was exaggerating...  I saw people jumping excitedly from tussock to foothold - trying to avoid the deep portions of bog.  I took a step, and were buried in mud - hip deep!  Trying to claim my "Wellingtons" back, was quite a mission.  Whilst the rest of the Moonies rested at Bijuku camp, some starting to suffer from altitude or mountain sickness.  Piers, Stephen and myself visited the beautiful Glacial lakes.  That afternoon, crampons were tried on. I said a couple of prayers whilst I listened to the howling winds.

Day 4:  We woke up to winds, more drizzle and thick mist. A decision was made. 5 Moonies would hike to Kitandara camp whilst the rest would push on for high camp.  I was so excited. It was icy above 4000m and treacherous icy rock faces had to be faced. Porters and fellow Moonies alike fell and hypothermia became a big reality.  Moonies, porters and guides arrived at Elena Hut in dribs and drabs, shivering and shaking from the exertion and the demons we had to face. 

We all huddled together in our sleeping bags, unsure what the rest of the day would bring. And then there was a shout! The sun has just shown herself. The evening showed a clear sky, moon rising and a spectacular sunset.

Day 5:  At 04h00 in the morning, the Moonies in Kitandara awoke to hail on the roof of the hut.  At Elena hut, we geared ourselves with harnesses, crampons and ice-axes and, together with the guides, we tackled the glacier en route to Margherita. The mist was thick, and got even thicker. About a kilometre into the attempt, we had to abandon it. The equally tricky and icy descent down to Kitandara followed. I was not looking forward to sharing my sleeping bag with smelly wet socks again.

Day 6:  More bog followed on our way to Guy Yeoman hut, where everyone was in good spirit, listening to Tony’s tunes.

Day 7:  The 4 Moonies who were hiking two days in one to get off the mountain early made it down safely.  After they cleaned up they started enjoying liquid refreshments! The rest of the party walked as far as Nyabitaba camp at a leisurely pace.

Day 8:  While Ela recovered from the Altitude sickness with tea and some G&T Piers, Simon and myself boarded a bus and headed for the source of the Nile where a bungee jump and a river rafting trip on the Nile was followed by the party to end all parties.

Day 9: Another adventurous trip back to Kampala was followed by yet another party.

Day 10: I survived the Mountains of the Moon.  A big piece of my heart was left behind. Chris, our guide, could hardly believe his eyes when I started bawling when we said our goodbyes...

Uganda – Mount Elgon – Wagagai Peak - April 2004

In April 2004, 11 intrepid explorers, nicknamed “Moonies” (for their desire to walk the mountains of the moon), ignored the news of violence in northern Uganda, and departed on a magical journey...  

Having “stumbled upon” them training for the hike in the Drakensberg earlier in December 2003, and unaware of any danger in Africa, I decided to join the 11 Moonies which were all members of ESSA (Exploration Society of South Africa).

The trip to Mt Elgon was not uneventful. Stephen’s luggage never made it to Entebbe airport That same evening, I stopped eating fish after a Tilapia with real eyes was  brought to me and, to everyone’s dismay, I refused to eat it.  My idea of fish was always that you buy it prepacked - coated in a nice batter and stuck it in the oven).

After two days of hiking, it was finally time to get up at what others might call an ungodly hour and head for Wagagai summit.  After the necessary pictures were taken, we headed back to Mude camp for breakfast.  I was feeling energized, so when Jackson’s peak was mentioned, I was able to convince one of the guides to take me there whilst the rest hiked back to camp for breakfast.

That evening, after some more trekking, Chris Muritti, our Kenyan Guide entertained us with some African rhythms played on Tony’s guitar.

The next morning after a fast trek down the mountain, "chapattis" at Rosie’s and a taxi ride back to Kampala, it was time for a well deserved bath!  We washed our clothing and started to prepare for the trip to the Mountains of the Moon.

Mount Elgon

South Africa – Drakensberg (Mweni Pass)

My Dad was not impressed with his daughter who spent money to see the sunrise on a peak in Tanzania while she hadn’t set foot in our beautiful South African mountains.   

Therefore I didn’t hesitate when Sarel van Rensburg invited me to join them on a Drakensberg hike in July 2003. My “Camelman” I met on the airport in Tanzania 6 months ago had just broken my heart and it was therefore quite natural when I woke up in Mponjwane cave above the clouds (-10°) and burst out in tears.

Sarel van Rensburg en Harry Harke

Going down the pass was an awesome experience. The whole mountain was covered with tiny flowers and tears were streaming down my cheeks when I realised it was God’s bouquet of flowers. The other lady in our group was also crying—the mountain was just so amazing beautiful.

The two guys accompanying us just shook their heads.

My first encounter with the Drakensberg couldn’t have been better.

Since then, I have been back to the Drakensberg several times. Every time it is such a special experience and my heart fills with gratitude.

Tanzania – Kilimanjaro – Uhuru Peak (Machame Route) - December 2002

12 June 2002:  “Please be careful!  In December I’m going to see the sunrise from the top of Kilimanjaro..." - these were my last words to the orthopaedic surgeon operating on my knee, before loosing my fight against the anaesthetics.  I didn't know where the idea came from, since I have never been on a hike before.

Four days later I visited "Cape Union Mart" on my crutches, accompanied by my Mom (a shopaholic who would not survive one day in the great outdoors).  Encouraged by her excitement (it was after all a huge shopping mall in Umhlanga), my 13th cheque was history within two hours.  My purchases included a book on Kilimanjaro, a -15% sleeping bag and two hiking sticks.  I was an inspired woman on a mission. 

I just had to phone my friend: “Cornelia, I’m going to Kili!”.  “Great!”, came her reply. “When are we leaving?”.

Cornelia was involved in a serious motorcycle accident three years before and is a walking miracle.  She has had 45 operations since this accident, and gave her team of medical specialists a permanent headache, not to talk about her curator.  The two of us were going to Kilimanjaro in December.  Her heart specialist recommended the Pioneer Adventure Club and I quickly phoned them.

 “December is not a good time”, came the reply.

Thereafter Cornelia visited medical specialists daily, and I had daily physiotherapy sessions.  In the background, the ladies at the Wesley Methodist Church said a prayer for us everyday.

On 14 December 2002 I gave my very first step in another African country.  On                      15 December 2002, at the tender age of 38, I took my first step on a mountain.  Each and every second thereafter has been an amazing experience!

Preparing for the hike

The view we had on the 19th was very difficult to describe.  We started our hike to Uhuru peak shortly after midnight whilst it was still snowing.  Cornelia had to turn back after 6 hours, as she suffered from Pulmonary Edema.  The rest of the “frozen” group was quiet. When the sun came up I was in awe - the sight from the beautiful mountain was astonishing.

We reached the top!

Only minutes after we had our photo taken we discovered that Adriaan suffered from mountain sickness.  The one guide ran down with him while the rest of us walked down slowly, everyone lost in their own world.

The next morning, my refusal to get in the vehicle that was send to take Adriaan down, almost led to mutiny. In the end, Adriaan, being the team leader, decided to walk down with me. When it started to rain, I kept the urge to dance and sing to myself. No use pushing my luck.

What a glorious experience.

Pulmonary edema is a condition caused by excess fluid in the lungs. This fluid collects in the numerous air sacs in the lungs, making it difficult to breathe.  In most cases, heart problems cause pulmonary edema. But fluid can accumulate for other reasons, including pneumonia, exposure to certain toxins and medications, trauma to the chest wall, and visiting or exercising at high elevations [https://www.mayoclinic.org]

Altitude sickness, the mildest form being acute mountain sickness (AMS), is the negative health effect of high altitude, caused by rapid exposure to low amounts of oxygen at high elevation.  Symptoms may include headaches, vomiting, tiredness, trouble sleeping, and dizziness. [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Altitude_sickness]