Algeria - October 2017

A cute house we stayed in

The guy at the Algerian embassy was not overly keen on giving me a visa to Algeria. His biggest concern was that I might get lost in the Sahara desert and I had to get an official letter from a tourist company.  I finally got my visa – and 72 hours later I landed in Algiers. My visa number was 857 and since I was the only one in the queue for foreign passports, I assumed that not a lot of tourist visited Algeria.

The immigration form was in French & Arabic and since I don’t speak either languages, I showed my passport to someone who helped me to fill in the form.  And so I smiled my way through ‘customs’.  

When I phoned Shamir, the Airbnb host, and he told me I must meet him at “Swissair”, I handed my phone to a guy who looked stunned at first but informed me that Shamir said France Air.  It would be tragic to die in a road accident travelling through Africa but I tried not to give it too much thought whilst Samir dodged the traffic.

Dates

I was expecting to leave the next day to Tamanrasset – but there were slight problems.  Rejoice was still waiting for her visa to Tunisia and our permits to visit the mountains have expired.  No problem right? Well, one small problem because it takes a week to get permits. Luckily I had enough books to read. After spending 6 days in Algiers, we were finally on our way to the Hoggar mountain. The bus trip was going to take 2 days.

Our bus conductor took his job seriously and his testosterone was pumping the whole trip.  People were told where to sit – and my hand luggage disappeared half way through the trip.  It was only after some frantic moments that I discovered that he decided it should be with the other luggage at the bottom of the bus.  

Men's pants in a shop

It was definitely not the most comfortable seats but I must have done something right because I ended up in first class (front seat where I could at least stretch out my legs) for the last 3 hours of the trip.  After 10 hours in the bus (the road was not bad – just bumpy), I had a callus on my bum and we finally arrived in Ghardaia. We were met by a couch surfer that Francis arranged and I can’t say it was not 5 star for me. He stopped at the police   I did not join them for supper – firstly because of my fear of being stuck on local transport with a full bladder, I was dehydrated and had a headache and secondly, I knew it was going to be uncomfortable explaining to the host that I don’t eat most food. 

Day 1: You need an official guide to take you around town and that’s how I came to meet Mr 6 Teeth.  He must have been at least 75 and had only 6 brown teeth.  He was also very loud.  When he asked me if I was married, I said no. When he asked me ‘why not’, I said ‘widow’. 

Our creepy guide

His face twitched in a huge grin, he said “Me too – let me take you to my wife’s grave’, and off we went. I was flabbergasted. At the first quiet spot, he declared it vital that I stay at least for two weeks so he can ‘make me happy again!” He also said he would dream of me that night – yikes!  I told Francis I am going to be his second wife from then on whenever the danger of being harassed lurked.

Our second guided tour was … the same but without any harassment.  

Little boys playing in the village

We came across this mule who was so unhappy – he was too tightly tied and I wanted to cry – but there was nothing I could do about it.  We were taken to a mosque and then everyone went to do some shopping in the market before going home.  That’s when we first saw the ‘one eyed ninjas’.  

It was a custom for Berber married wife’s to wear a garment that covers their whole bodies except the one eye. It became our mission to get some good pictures of them without them being aware of it. 

A married woman

I have had bananas and bread 99% of the time.  The hosts were hospitable wherever we went – Abd EL Halim Ajedid everyone with food but although extremely bland, I stuck to my bananas and bread meals.  One episode of trying not to offend people in Liberia made me stick to my promise NOT to eat anything I don’t want to – especially not oily meat.

The third tour took us to another mosque and the guide was very pleasant.  

No physical contact, pictures or indecent dress sign

I thought the signs in public places were quite something.

             

No taking off shoes sign in the bus

On the bus, I was very surprised to see the ‘no taking off shoes’ sign besides the no eating, drinking and smoking sign.

Day 2: Abd El took us to the bus station where I quickly found myself a ‘cozy’ seat. We did not travel far before I started to feel content.  This bus driver and his friend, the woman behind me with her two children, the bumpy road, everything felt just right.

Day 3: 17 hours later we arrived in Tamanrasset.  I was amazed at how many building were going on – I did not see too many people but it seemed as if I was the only noticing this.  We were once again met at the bus station by a couch surfing friend of Francis. It really is quite different travelling with him.  We were taken to a place to stay and after a nap, he picked us up and after driving around town for what felt like ages, he took us to meet his very sweet mom before visiting one of his friend, a female, very passionate about her archaeology friend of his. Algeria does not allow excavation. I was so surprised to find out that the people are so spiritual here.  At 21.30, Moulay Zine Abidine brought a whole home cooked meal and the rest of the crowd had a nice meal – whilst I had my bread, banana and this time – marmite. 

Day 4: My understanding was that we would leave at 9:00 so I did not pay too much attention to the 2 gentleman who arrived whilst we were having breakfast. I was looking forward to a nice shower but then the usual happened.  Pack up – we’re leaving in 15 minutes. 

And then the waiting started.  We were stuck outside the military police office where some serious negotiations were going on.  Even though we waited for a week to get our permits ready to visit the Hoggar mountain, there was a misunderstanding and the military guys thought we were only going to be in the mountain for two days.  

I smiled at a guy walking past and the next moment he was knocking on my window.  I thought he was begging and waved at him before closing the window. The next moment he was knocking at the opposite window, asking for my phone number.  I started speaking Afrikaans.  What the hell is wrong with the people! It was only afterwards that I read that if a woman smiles at a man in Algiers, it means she likes him.

No one was too happy to have the 12 military police in 3 vehicles escorting us.  When they stopped for a ‘picnic” 40 minutes outside Tamanrasset, we objected and only had lunch an hour later. So far, we haven’t seen too many guns.  

Stopping along the way to the mountain

The mountains are breath taking.  When we arrived at the refugee, we were told to rush up to see the sunset.  We bumped into a 90 year old man who has been staying in the mountain for the past 45 years.  We then met a monk from Poland who has stayed there for the past ten years.  He told us to rush to see the sunset.  

The e-book that tells you what to do in case you get kidnapped

It was magnificent and of course I had to cry. I am super blessed.  I thought one of the guys on top was a French guy – so I offered to take a picture of him.  He thought I wanted a selfie so I gave him my card so he could send

Sunset on top of the refuge

me the picture.  Oeps, he turned out to be part of the military guys.  

We got a lift with the guys back and then we were given our tents to pitch. After a quick wash, it was time for supper and I was almost knocked back by the smell of garlic.  I felt forced to eat the special vegetarian dish the cook prepared for me and managed to remove most of the GARLIC.  Was still chatting when guy from military walked in.  I guess he thought I gave him my card because I liked him.

Day 5: After watching an awesome sunrise, I was told that we would leave in 20 minutes time.  I threw everything into my backpack but then someone said: “relax – we might only leave in two hours’ time”.  I am used to not knowing what is happening so I took out my laptop but before I could even switch it on, another voice, “we are leaving!” 

Sunrise

Apparently we were waiting for the soldiers, who seemed to be on ‘holiday’. By 11:00 we all felt we have waited long enough and we followed Sidiomar on foot down the road. 30 Minutes later, our driver arrived with one military vehicle behind him. I did not even bother to ask any more questions. A very bumpy road followed but two hours later, we were at our camping spot. 

We had some challenges removing huge rocks in the road

We had two choices.  We could either climb Jebel Tahat after lunch or we could get up at 3:00 the next morning and climb, which will give us enough time to catch the bus back to Ghardaia. I threw everything in a bag and 30 minutes later, we were on our way.  Thank goodness there was a breeze and the rocks were quite steady.  

After 2 hours, we reached the peak.  Luckily, the only litter on the peak were two pair of jeans. After taking some pictures, we made our way back.

On top of the highest peak in Algeria

Once back at the camp, Sidiomar was waiting with some hot water for a nice wash. 

The two soldiers that were left behind to protect us, came to show us some pictures of the fish they tried to catch whilst we were on top.  They also informed us that they were looking for game to shoot, but could not find any. 

It was getting dark and still no sign of our guide or the rest of the military guys.  The one soldier then ran up the hill and started signalling.  The searchlight was set in motion and 30 minutes later, a bedraggled Moulai stumbled into our camp.  10 Minutes later, he went off again – this time in the military vehicle that was here to protect us.  All 3 military vehicles arrived an hour later making a big racket.  Apparently Moulai had to walk 8 km to meet them at a point to make sure they take the correct turnoff but there was some misunderstanding. And Moulai got to walk 16 km without complaining.

Day 6: I went for a walk leaving everyone in peace and the army guys snoring. When I got back, Sidiomar had the water boiling and I greeted everyone loudly. We had to get back to Tamanrasset to catch a bus back to Gardaia and it seemed as if the military guys took ages

Part of the team

to get ready.

5 Hours later we stopped in Tamanrasset.  Moulay did not want to stop at the bus depot because he did not want the military guys to know that we were leaving that evening – or so I understood. At one stage we got the VIP treatment and the gendarme put on their siren. I guess it was their way of saying thanks for a great adventure.

We had an amazing shower in Tamanrasset but had no idea when the bus would leave.  Thank goodness Moulay (1) arrived and took charge and drove to the bus depot. I was on standby.  You never know if it is going to take a day, 5 hours or 30 minutes! He came back with a present for us – and mine was a desert rose – just what I was looking for.  

The bus left at 19:00 but then we went to the big depot – where what seemed like chaos reigned.  Not far out of Tamanrasset, we were stopped by the military guys who checked our passports.  The lady from Niger who was sitting next to me was escorted off the bus because she did not have a permit with her.  I felt bad for her, but pretty soon the military came back and since I don’t speak French or Arabic, Francis explained to them that none of us worked for the government and they left us in peace. 

It took another 30 minutes before everyone was allowed back on the bus and 17 hours later we arrived in Gardaia.

Day 7:  We were picked up by a couch surfing guy and driven to a house and although we have been driving for 26 hours (taking the trip to Tamanrasset into consideration), I was

Meeting a group of Algerian ladies

ready to attend what I thought was a wedding.  Luckily, the ‘wedding’ turned out to be only a 20 minute visit to meet some ladies (the woman stays at home most of the times) and we were given gifts.  I felt like the "galoopy man" – all swollen.

Next moment, we are off to another house.  I have just unpacked when a French family arrived, and we all had tea.  I have lost track of time, but after a while, everyone got up and I followed the crowd – which have grown to 12.  We stopped at someone’s house and were told we have 15 minutes to chat to a group of woman.  Not expecting to be able to take pictures of the woman, I was pleasantly surprised when we were asked if we would mind if they take pictures.  It turned out to be a video and after 30 minutes, the men started phoning and we left reluctantly. It turned out to be such a nice meeting.

The crowd has grown to 14 and everyone was talking simultaneously. The next moment, the French family disappears and then we were driven back to our cute house.

Day 8:  I was up at 4:00 in time to have coffee without worrying too much about a full bladder on the 10 hour bus ride to Algiers.  By 7:00 we were having breakfast opposite the bus station and shortly afterwards, we were on our way again.  I changed seats 4 times.  I guess I was getting too comfortable.  Samir was waiting for us and after stopping for some cream - I discovered that I have bought a 750 ml shower gel.

Day 9 & 10:  Whilst there was no news about the visa saga, I spend the next two day updating my journal, and going for walks in the cemetery. 

Day 11: Rejoice still did not have her visa so a decision was taken that she will meet him in Egypt.  The next moment she shouted and started to pack – she finally got her Tunisian visa and soon we were on the bus to Kasserine.

Day 12: We expected to arrive at 24:00 but only arrived at 04:00 where we got a taxi to the Algerian border post where we waited 3 hours before being let through.

Get together with couch surfers