Liberia - The Nimba Range

23 June: We were finally in Liberia. It was raining, I was bloated and all my insect bites were festering. But all was still well in Africa. The guys at the Liberian border were so excited about the world cup soccer; they forgot to ask for any bribes. (Unfortunately, I was informed by Alan six months later that it was not the case). The pastor and two fellow passengers (one turned out to be a policeman who decided to take care of us) decided to stick with us and we all chartered a vehicle to Monrovia. The policeman’s presence turned out to be a miracle. At every police post (and there were several), the pastor and her fellow passengers sang "happy birthday to me" and clapped hands. Apparently, they would have to pay money at every stop if the policeman was not traveling with us. It was a joyous ride in the rain.

Once in Monrovia, the police captain took us to an expensive hotel, but we convinced him to take us to a cheaper one. He was worried about our safety so we compromised and ended in a hotel with security for $80 per night. Considering that we paid $5 in the brothel the previous night, it was quite a blow to our budget, but it promised 24 hour electricity and running hot and cold water etc. I was happy to pay the money. The rain has not stopped for a second.

24 June: Waiting for our Sierra Leone visas, we thoroughly enjoyed the hotel with it’s TV and hot running water while it rained outside. Although the streets were filled with UN people, we were not so sure about our safety, and didn’t want to venture out too far. Since we were already over our budget, we splurged some more by drinking beer at their restaurant.

25 June: I woke up startled at 03h00, heart throbbing. Aha, so this is what a panic attack feels like, I mumbled. Nine days ago, in crazy Freetown, I received an e-mail from Camelman III, informing me that he was seeing someone else. For nine days, I have tried to block out the pain and fear. But all my fears have finally caught up with me. During the next 3 hours, I died several times, reliving every painful memory.

When Alan stirred at 06h00, I shouted “I NEED HELP AL”

Since breakfast was included in the $80 per room deal, I had to wait another two hours. On our way into Monrovia, I have noticed a bookshop. I needed help desperately.

I found the bookshop, and although it only had 20 different books, two of them were “Dale Carnagees “How to stop worrying and start living” and Eckardt Tolls “The New Earth”. For four years, I have tried in vain to read Eckardt Toll’s “The power of now”, but I was going crazy and I had to try and stop the pain.

“IT-IS-$40”, Alan hissed when we walked out the bookstore:

“I – NEED -IT”, I croaked back. “No one has bought me a birthday present”. I could not stop crying.

To add oil to the fire, I had more beer that evening.

26 June: Our bookstore guy was so grateful I bought 2 books from him, he picked us up at the hotel and took us to the red district, where we got a taxi to Yekepa. We had to share the back seat with two rather fat people so we both had exactly 2 cm to sit on. We were warned about motorcycle guys dragging you into the bushes so we didn't venture too far once we finally arrived in Yekepa. We expected a big town and food. Unfortunately, the only food we could find was popcorn and peanuts. No water. By now, our insect bites were really festering and everywhere remarks could be heard about “Whites not surviving Africa”. 



On our way to the highest point on the Nimba Range

27 June: Our room could not lock and people kept on shouting throughout the evening. Add that to the numerous warnings about being kidnapped and it makes sense that we ended up slightly paranoid.

For security reasons, the Liberian chapter was left out of our Rough guide so we had no clue where to hike to but our host came to our rescue. Following his advice, we set off for the highest peak in Liberia in the Nimba range. We had 2 liter of water with us and a dry bun. Luckily it was misty, because we couldn’t see the top. 

Mr Agrawal, Alan, myelf and Ian, the South African
we met on the Nimba Range



We took our first tower reading at 10h30. Another tower followed and then we got to the third tower. A 4X4 has just passed us earlier and what a great surprise to meet a fellow South African on top. Ian has just started working in Liberia and was just visiting Yekepa. His colleague gave us some Indian snacks and juice (heaven since we have devoured our dry bun) and invited us for supper. They told us we could just follow the road and we'll get back. Two hours later we have come to a dead end and had to backtrack. After our 33 km hike, we got back to the guesthouse just in time for a quick wash before being picked up for our meal at 18h30.

A lovely evening followed where I had the best meal of my life. Phillip, the chef surprised us with home made samooses and vegetarian dishes and I did not hesitate to ask for seconds.

28 June: It was Guinea Conakry’s general elections the previous day and unsure about the stability of the country, we have decided to take only the bare necessities with. A short ride on motorbikes to the border followed where we ignored any gift requests.



Another mountain destroyed by mining