Morocco - December 2016

It’s 2013 and instead of going to Morocco as originally planned, I went to West Africa for 3 months.

In 2015, I planned another trip and after spending some time on Egypt’s mountains, I was ready for Morocco.  Unfortunately it was not meant to be.  At the airport in Cairo I was informed that my visa has expired, a mistake made by the embassy.  The Atlas Mountain had to wait again. 

In July 2016 I started to make arrangements for my trip to the Atlas Mountain. Besides going to Morocco, I was also going to Cape Verde and luckily, I discovered that I have made a mistake with my flight dates before I arrived in Morocco and I was able to change the dates. 

25^th of December and whilst most of the people were celebrating Christmas, I was celebrating my trip to Morocco.  It was, however my unlucky day. The plane was full and I got squashed in between an overweight guy.  I had to turn sideways to eat and although he was very friendly, I made a conscious decision not to drink too much since it would be a mission trying to get to the loo.  2 Minutes after he informed me that he had no problem falling asleep, he started to snore. I got a distinct feeling that it was going to be a very long flight.

In Doha, I did quite a bit of running and made it just in time for my connecting flight to Casablanca.  This time, I was fairly lucky.  I got a window seat and there was one open seat between me and an obese lady from Senegal.  20 Minutes after take-off, she decided to move to the seat behind me. I was not sure if she was dreaming but after kicking my seat for the umpteenth time, I slammed the middle seat’s hand rest down and she got the message.  My headphones brought some relieve but after another passenger two rows behind me started snoring, I had to change to another movie to cover the noise.

26^th: Getting a bit confused about the time difference is quite normal for me, and I was pleasantly surprised to discover that I had two extra hours to faff before my next connecting flight from Casablanca to Marrakesh.  It was freezing and after putting on my winter gear, I went for a nice relaxing cup of coffee. A German group with at least 6 hyperactive boys arrived and when they started playing soccer inside the small terminal, it took me 30 seconds to find a seat as far away as possible from the noisy monsters. Suddenly there was a huge commotion.  A lady and her two daughters were prevented from boarding a flight because they were late and for the next 15 minutes I waited in anticipation for a physical fight to break out. It was a very short flight to Marrakesh and I could not wipe the grin off my face once I saw the snow-capped Atlas Mountain. 

I almost lost my own luggage

I was impatient to get to the mountain and rushed to get my backpack.  It was not amongst the luggage on the conveyor belt.  I rushed to the lost luggage counter, then to a new terminal, back to the lost luggage counter and just as I was about to give up, I got a senior staff member to search with me. We went back to the first conveyor and there was my lonely backpack – about to be taken to the lost luggage office.  Because of the connecting flights, I got a bit confused – and well, I almost lost my own luggage.  Luckily, my pre-arranged taxi driver was still waiting outside – and I am positive after two hours, his hand must have ached holding the paper with my name on.

I love Morocco. Everything is clean, the people are friendly and there are fruit trees on the pavements in Marrakesh. I took some pictures with my phone and the next moment I got a message saying my sim card is locked.  What next!  Mohamed, my taxi driver drove like a maniac because we were 2 hours late of course. My guide came to my rescue when I handed him my phone. He switched off a small button and voila, I could use my phone again.  In Imi Ouglad, I was shown to my room in the guest house where I claimed my space by repacking all my possessions before joining an American couple and a Danish family in the lounge. Every group had their own guide, cook and muleteer so all the cooks were steaming up the kitchen before we were served our three different meals. Everyone had a great time and when I crawled into bed by 21:00 freezing, I could still hear laughter.

27th of December: After a great breakfast, Mohamed, the Danish family’s colourful guide, showed us how to fold a 20m long scarf around one’s head.  He also mentioned that he was

It was freezing

passed crazy since he runs 120 km marathons.  After only two hours of hiking, Ahmed said we have reached the picnic spot – but I said we must keep on hiking.  
Once in the village of D’knt, I was served very tasty beans. It was freezing so I spend a couple of hours in my sleeping bag reading before going on a walk around the village where he handed out sweets to the children. And it was only after I asked for some boiled water to wash in that the owner came to switch the geyser on – so after a nice hot shower, I crawled into my -10° sleeping bag.

Manuska

28th of December:  I must have gotten only two hours sleep – and read Angela’s ashes.  My face was all swollen but I did feel a lot better after having some coffee.  I also announced that our nameless mule was going to be called Manuska. It was a pleasant hike and Ahmed played nice Berber music. After passing a village, we stopped for lunch – once again very tasty beans.  

Lunch along the way

I do not normally eat beans so I was unsure about the amount of gas it will produce.  It was a lovely hike and we ended up in a guest house where the American couple were also staying. That evening, we were entertained by all the guides/muleteers and cooks singing and beating on anything resembling a drum.  I was pretty tired and slept like a log.

29th of December.  I felt neglected at breakfast but maybe it is because I told the cook I don’t need all the food.  I did not even have a plate and shared some of Katherine and Alan (Americans) food. I noticed that Katherine’s eyes were puffy and introduced her to the benefits of Pilex.  It is quite normal for me to end up very bloated and unattractive after a day or two in the mountains and the hemorrhoids cream helps to reduce the puffiness.  

In 2009 I did the grand traverse with 5 ladies from Cape Town and we all got a bit bloated.  One morning I woke up and I could not see a thing. I gave one shout “YES!”, thinking that my eyes were swollen shut but unfortunately it was just my beanie that crawled over my head.   We left at 8:30 and I could not help laughing when Amid told me one of the other groups guide had no clue how to get to Imlil.  I said he must help him – but we stopped for tea at a lady friend of his.  Everyone had a great laugh when the smoke got into my eyes but it is nice travelling on my own – I don’t get treated as a tourist.

Picking up litter along the way

I felt very clumsy crossing scree/hard ice but trust I will get my confidence back.  We were getting closer to a popular path and unfortunately we started to encounter litter left by tourists. Hamid joined me when I started picking up the litter and once on top I was introduced to Omar – the head of the association who cleans the mountain. I informed Hamid to tell me to calm down when I get too excited before I start shouting at any potential litter bug. Once down in Mzik, I was very surprised to discover that he has arranged a mule ride to my next accommodation. 

My mule ride down to a village

I felt lazy and sorry for my mule, but Abrahim, the muleteer talked non-stop and it was no use trying to tell him that except for ‘tranqual’, I did not understand one word during the 30 minute ride.  It got freezing and I was relieved when we finally arrived at the guest house where I had to settle for a luke warm shower. Lhoucian, my cook/muleteer was waiting for me at the guest house – and I ordered two coffees. I was, however told to first finish the first one. It did not take long and he was pretty impressed.

30^th of December.  I did not get too far before I had a spectacular fall on the slippery ice. My hiking pole broke off but luckily, Lhoucian was able to fix it in such a way that I could still use it.  I just loved all the colourful displays of cold drink and fruit along the way.  I was quite surprised to get to the refuge so soon and spend some time with a dog and her 5 puppies before settling down in my dormitory. 

On my way to the refuge

I also discovered that I had one extra day in Morocco and asked Hamid to phone Rachid and arrange that my driver picks me up one day later and that we stay another night on the mountain.  I was exhausted and stiff and after claiming my space in the dormitory and a nice shower, I joined the rest of the tourists in the lounge.  Mohammed, the colourful guide arrived with his group – this time he had on an orange scarf and I tried to take a video but the place was too busy.  

I started chatting to the tourists around me and when Hamid sat next to me, I shared my thoughts that the guy with a beard that was staring at me for quite a while must be a terrorist.  But it turned out that he was only doing his PhD in Chemistry and he was from Argentina.  I convinced his girlfriend who was doing her PhD in Physics to climb to the top as well – and till this day I was not sure if it was good advice or not – and hope her experience did not put her off mountains for life. I also chatted with Aziz – who stayed in Marrakech and invited him to summit with me. I could see the relief on his face. I gave Hosen €30 before he left.  I shared the dormitory with 19 other people.

31^st of December: At first, my neighbour in the dormitory battled to sleep – but once he managed, his snore was impressive.  I have learned long ago that earplugs does not work.  I was told that we would leave at 3:30, and was ready by 3:00.  But we only left at 4:00 and it felt as if we raced to the top.  I was huffing and puffing and as usual, it was freezing on top and the wind was howling.  

On top of the highest mountain in Morocco

My camera’s batteries were flat but besides the batteries freezing, I discovered later that the camera was not working properly so it was not just me forgetting to bring extra batteries.  After watching the sun rise whilst dancing to keep warm, we started the steep downhill.  

My guide walking behind me to make sure I don't fall

I was not comfortable with Hamid racing down but he did look after me and at one stage, he walked behind me holding both my hiking sticks to make sure I don’t have another spectacular fall. 

It was only later that he told me that he was petrified that I would slip since I had normal rain pants on instead of ski pants and I would be unable to stop myself from sliding. 20 Minutes away from the refuge, I felt something giving away in my right boot.  I could not find anything wrong with my boot.  Bummer, it must be my extra-long big toe that went through my brand new fancy hiking socks.

Once at the refuge, my legs were shaky and I took of my boots. Thank goodness, my expensive socks were intact.  It was my toenail that took a severe knock. My first aid kit consists out of diaree, stomach cramp, anti-inflammatory and panado tablets, mole skin and plasters came in handy.  At least a plaster would keep the toenail in place.

I wanted to spend another day on the mountain. The refuge was overbooked so it was decided that we would hike to another hut where we would spend old year’s eve. Whilst we waited for another porter/cook that was send up to accompany me and Hamid to the hut, I enjoyed some coffee (and their food) with other tourists. My legs were still feeling shaky, my toe was throbbing and I was getting gatvol of waiting, so I mentioned to Hamid that we could go down to Imlil if it was so much trouble. 

But a Russian tourist convinced me that the hut was just around the corner and offered me more coffee to calm down.

Finally we set off, shaky legs and all. I have developed my own technique of climbing mountains.  As soon as the going got tough, I would start counting till a pre-determined number before I took a break and look back to encourage me. The number I counted to depend totally on my tired level.  I was semi positive and started counting till 30. It was not all that successful – as soon as I got into a rhythm, I would fall through the snow.  I tried the ‘kick with my crampons method’, but sometimes the snow just gave way and later my legs felt like lead.  1, 2, 3, 4 fall. 1,2,3,4,5 … fall.

When Hamid said he was going to walk behind me because we were going to go through a dangerous section I just thought to myself:  ‘No ways!  I would rather stick to landmines, deserts, snakes etc. but no more scary slopes for me.  I was becoming a granny and I guess it was time to start acting sensibly.  It turned out to be an ambitious hike – and the hut was definitely not ‘around the corner’.  When Hamid told me that it was about 5 minutes to the hut, I told myself ‘yeah right! I am from Africa and don’t believe this 5 minute or around the corner stories.

I’ve never been so happy to see a hut before.  My new ‘cook’ had to help me remove my frozen crampons and boots.  I asked Hamid if I could close the door and use the ‘entrance’ to change into dry clothes – but he must have misunderstood me because he showed me the sleeping place above the lounge.  I was freezing and got undressed in my sleeping bag and they must have thought I have gone nuts with all the moves I made in my bag.  

Two Spanish guys have pitched their tent because they refused to pay $100 for the hut, but they used the kitchen and I guess the amount of alcohol they consumed helped against the

Our frozen boots outside the hut

cold.  After visiting the loo, which was just about covered in snow, I decided that I was definitely not going to step out in the dark and that I was going to keep a bottle handy. Of course, the fact that the water was kept running in order for the pipes not to freeze did not help. My toe was throbbing and I covered my foot with layers of clothes just to prevent me bumping it against anything. It was old year’s eve and although freezing, I was extremely happy.

1^st of January 2017. After being woken by the Spanish guys who got ready to explore the mountain for some nice skiing slopes, I sneaked around the corner to empty my bladder.  It was freezing and was definitely not going to go to the snow filled loo further down. Besides having a phobia of being stuck in local transport for hours with a full bladder, I also have a fear of falling to my death whilst going to the loo on a mountain. I made sure I was packed before having a nice omelette but then I was informed that we are going to stay another night.  It might have been the original plan or it might have something to do with the fact that our boots were still frozen.  I could just picture myself trying to squash my throbbing foot inside the frozen boot and definitely did not complain.  Instead, I unpacked and got back into my sleeping bag. 

Around 12:00, I joined the rest of the team in the sun.  Our boots were out defreezing in the sun, the three Moroccans were listening to music and I was reading Alan Paton’s cry the beloved country. After some time in the sun, I went back to bed and started reading the book from the start again.  The Spanish guys got back extremely late and I can only say I take my hat off to them.  It was freezing. 

2^nd Of January 2017.  Day 7 in the mountain – and I decided to have some chocolate spread on my bread for breakfast. When we set of at 9:00, the wind was howling.  And we set of an avalanche.

3nd of January 2017.  After pancakes and very sweet tea for breakfast, we hiked down to the village where I bought some crystals before driving back to the airport in Marrakesh.  Morocco is truly a beautiful clean country and my faith in people has been restored.  I was already missing the Atlas mountain.  

After my trip to Cape Verde, I was eager to get back to South Africa.  My newly grandson was waiting – but it was two days before my flight back and I stayed in Marrakesh.  The market is one big maize – and I am terrible with direction.  I did venture out a bit – but not too far and the store owners realised soon that I was not going to buy anything.  

My toe-nail did not make it all the way

Seychelles - Morne Seychellois

24^th of December:  On the spur of the moment, I decided to visit Seychelles to climb the highest peak.  There were only three African countries I haven’t visited where I did not need a visa. I knew very little about the island – just that Morne Seychellois was only a 45 minute easy hike from the tea factory.  It was, however peak season but things always work out and a friend of mine’s uncle managed to find me ‘cheap’ accommodation for ‘only’ €35 per day.  Al he wanted was 6 milk stouts and some biltong and whiskey for the lady that arranged the accommodation for me.  Two hours after I received his e-mail, my flight was booked.

25^th of December:  Finding milk stout at the airport?  Instead I bought more whiskey and biltong. Sometimes I forget how much I love travelling. I love to watch the people waiting at the airport, meeting new people and sharing their excitement upon arrival. 

I loved the island the moment I stepped off the aeroplane.  At the airport, I drew some Euros, a lot more that I expected to spend, but since I travel a lot, I knew it would come in handy in the future. It was magic driving past Victoria with the Christmas lights all lit up. 

My flight was delayed and I only arrived in Bel Ombre after 22:00, where I was pleasantly surprised with the apartment.  It was humid and I really appreciated the air conditioner. Falling asleep with the sounds of frogs, fruit bats and the sea, was incredible.  

Villa La Cachette - a lovely place I stayed in

 26^th of December: I woke up in lovely Seychelles with only a printout of the hikes I googled and showed my landlady, who was on her way to visit family for a week, I gave her a list of all the hikes. She gave me a map and showed me where they were on the map, but it was all Greek to me. I felt like an idiot and then she instructed her husband to drive me to all the starting points.  I was just as clueless as before but I took some useless GPS readings and at least I now knew where the Anse Major hike started. 

The start of the Dans Gallas Trail

I was dropped off at the start of the Dans Gallas trail – according to the book, it is the most strenuous one.  The view was magnificent and after 90 minutes, I bumped into a couple coming down.  “We couldn’t find the path to the top – so good luck”.  I hiked for another 30 minutes before the path disappeared. I was on my own and the reason I was in Seychelles was to climb to the highest peak. It was silly to risk injuries so I turned back.  Because of the humidity, the sweat was pouring off me.

Once down, I started walking.  After walking for quite a while on a tarred road, I remembered that my landlord mentioned something about ‘whatever you do, do not turn right!”.  I have, of course turned right.

Ages later, I stood in front of a police station.  I only had a piece of paper with the apartment’s address on and asked a passing lady if she knew where it was.  She looked at the paper, looked at me, looked at the paper again and burst out laughing.  She then said I must take a bus – and when I said I would prefer to walk, she burst out laughing again. I definitely made her day – if not her year.

Eventually I stumbled through the apartment’s door having had enough excitement for one day. I sat on the veranda and listened to the bats, sea and birds. Tomorrow, I was going to see the view from the highest peak in Seychelles.

27^th of December. It was raining and although the bus service is pretty good, the house sitter offered to take me to the bus station in Victoria.  While waiting for the bus, I showed

The bus station in Victoria

the map to the guy sitting next to me, and realised with a shock that I was on my way to Morne Blanch instead of Morne Seychellois.  He suggested that I take the same bus as him, get off at Sois Sois and then take another bus to the tea factory.  Although I made several “small” mistakes, I was finally on my way to the highest peak in Seychelles. I was also able to buy a local sim card so I could at least phone the house sitter.

Just to make double sure, I asked a local if this was the way to Morne Seychellois.  He looked stunned, shook his head and told me that I definitely needed a guide but that everything was closed because it was a Sunday.

I was given the number of the sports centre and told to phone the next morning. 

The next moment a tourist stopped and before he could ask me for directions, I told him I was also lost.  He said his son can drop me off – but then I discovered that he was going on a hike and this was how I ended up hiking the Copolia trail with a German. It sure was my lucky day.  Not only have I discovered that I needed a guide to get to Morne Seychellois,   I also got a lift back to my apartment with the tourists.

"Batman's Fruit Bat"

It was still early and I decided to do the Anse Major trail.  I was told that it was at the end of the road so I could not get lost right?  At the start of the trail I met Richie aka Batman who invited me to meet his fruit bat.  After a while, I bumped into a couple who told me that they were lost.  I guess I might have gotten lost as well but eventually we found the trail to the beach. 

Richie aka Batman

After a quick swim, it was time to hike back and then I sat down with Richie aka Batman who entertained me with hilarious stories

I had to buy some water but missed the shop closest to the apartment and ended up at the police station.  After hiking just about the whole day, I was pretty tired but at least I was getting to know my way around. I had one more day left in Seychelles and my evening was filled with nightmares about not reaching Morne Seychellois.

28^th of December. I woke up early to discover that my phone was not working.  With the house sitter’s assistance, I finally got through to the sport centre and the lady that answered informed me that I definitely needed a guide but that everyone was on leave. 

I begged, explained my situation and then just as I was about to burst into tears – she told me she will see what she can do. It started to rain again and for some reason, I still thought I needed to get to the tea factory so the house sitter drove me once again to Victoria Station.  After a while I got a phone call from Francis – who offered to take me to the top for RS5 000.  I only had RS1000 on me and told him I will EFT the rest – still thinking I am halfway to the start of the trail.  I had no choice.  If I postponed my flight and stayed another day or two looking for a cheaper guide, it would cost me at least RS5000.  I told him I will go back to BelOmbre to get the rest of the money.  Thinking I would have to go and draw more money, it was such a relieve to find out that I had exactly RS5350 left of the ‘extra money’ I drew at the airport

Going for a quick swim

An hour later we were on our way and I was informed that it would have taken ages to pick me up at the tea factory and that it was already very late to start the hike. I had my doubts about being taken for a ride, but I had no choice. It was still raining and already 12:00. 

It turned out to be quite a jovial hike and both of them had great senses of humour. We came across snakes, hedgehogs and a lizard. I was told that I was lucky because not everyone sees animals.  During the 5 hours it took us to get to the top there was constant laughter. He also mentioned that most of the people turn around a quarter of the way into the hike and that his boss had to almost beg him to take me.

 In the beginning I asked him if this was a special price and he said yes – it definitely was.

I then said I will also just charge him RS5000 to take him to the Drakensberg and of course, we all laughed.  He turned out to be the Sports Director and travels a lot with children to other countries. 

And then we were on top of Seychelles highest peak and it was like paradise. The trees were covered by ferns that only grow where there is no air pollution. Francis told me that people thinks he photoshopped the pictures he takes of the trees.  It was raining so unfortunately I could not take a lot of pictures during the hike. But then the clouds opened up, something that does not happen that often once it starts raining.

On top of Morne Seychellois

They just had to make another joke showing me where I would have ended if I followed the ‘trail’ from the tea factory.  Since it was getting dark, we did not stay long.  At one stage Jimmy stopped to tie the lace on his pants and Francis said: ‘you better fasten your seatbelt.  This means Jimmy is going to run down!” And we did it in 3 hours.  I felt like Jane swinging from branch to branch and they told me that they were surprised that I was so strong, which definitely restored some of my self-confidence.

I was dropped off at the apartment and although soaked throughout and muddy from some falls, I could not thank my guardian angels enough for how things turned out in the end.

Using a taxi in Seychelles is extremely expensive but I could not get hold of the person who offered to take me to the airport. I was getting in a flat spin and then there was a knock on the door and Debbie, the lady who arranged the apartment stood in the doorway.  She was there to collect her whiskey.  It also just happened that she worked at the airport and gave me a lift there the next morning at 06:00.

And this is why I love travelling.  Meeting interesting, kind people, seeing beautiful places, getting out of my comfort zone – and yes, every now and again I tell myself I am going to stop being so impulsive and give my guardian angels a break.

Mauritius - Piton de la petite Riviere Noire aka Black River Peak

Climbing Mauritius’ highest peak, sounded like a holiday in paradise. At my best, I am not so great with directions and maps – so when Christa Van Schalkwyk started arranging accommodation and transport for our trip, it was such a welcome relief.  Of course, 5 star hotels were out of the question but after searching for ‘cheaper’ accommodation, we stumbled upon the Mountain View apartments.

We arrived after 19:00 and our taxi driver was waiting to take us to La Gaulette.  The trip started off great. Our taxi driver took the wrong turn-off but the roads are narrow in Mauritius so he was forced to put a lot of extra kilometres on his speedometer before we were back on the road to La Gaulette.  The road is also very winding and travelling at 80km/hour, I got carsick for the first time in my life. 

I was pleasantly surprised by the accommodation and Shan, the owner, who went out of his way to assist us.

The next morning at 6:00, we started our hike to Le Morne Brabant, an UNESCO World Heritage Site.  I was told that it was pretty exposed, but I chose to ignore that bit of information and by talking just about non-stop with the rest of the group, I missed all the exposed parts.

  

On top of Le Morne Brabant

Christa was ready for the beach and asking around, we were told that the beach in Le Morne was only 5 minutes away. In most of the African countries, you are told that whatever you are looking for is just around the corner – or not very far.  In Mauritius we were told that whatever we were looking for, was only 5 minutes away. 

It felt great to be lying on the beach with my hiking boots on and no-one seemed too surprised when I walked into the sea wearing my hiking clothes. 

Getting back to La Gaulette was another matter.  We were told that we could wait all day for local transport and we were advised to hitchhike, which we did.  Scared and surprised when a truck with 3 guys stopped – but we got in.  The driver refused to take any money and by now I was very impressed by the friendliness of the locals. 

Lying on my bed, I heard an ‘explosion’ and ran outside.  The electrical cable was on fire and the people next to us said it is extremely dangerous. I decided to grab my passport and get away as far and as fast as possible.  I have, after all, still a lot of mountains I want to climb.  When I was convinced that nothing was going to explode, after this quick getaway, I looked into my backpack. I had packed in my passport, wallet, a clean set of undies, my favourite shirt and a book to read. 

For the rest of the evening we had no electricity and decided to have some cocktails but since we were on a tight budget, we got some cane and orange juice at the local supermarket.  We could not find any ‘umbrellas’ and settled for birthday candles.  Whilst sipping our ‘cocktails’, I realised that using burning candles instead of decorative umbrellas could end up with my hair scorched. Since we had already an eventful day, I decided to extinguish the burning candle.  Shan arranged transport to the highest mountain in Mauritius for the next day.

Kunal, our taxi driver for the day, arrived at 06:00 and it was only after a while that we realised that he did not know that we wanted to climb Black Rock peak.  So we had to go all the way back to where he dropped us.  For some reason I thought the hike was only 30 minutes, but it turned out to be 3 hours. I loved the forest, and every now and again I had to hug a tree.  The last part was surprisingly steep. We used the ropes that someone put in place. The view from the top was breathtaking. We spent at least 30 minutes on top admiring the view.  

What a view on top of Mauritius' highest mountain

Then it was time to go down. Taking it step by step, whilst clinging to the ropes, we finally made it past the steep part.  I can’t image anyone getting down without using the ropes – and definitely not after some rain. Our taxi driver was there to pick us up. Can you believe that he gave us a discount, because he did not have to travel too far?  It was so uplifting to realise that there are honourable people around.

That evening, after watching an amazing sunset, we had some cocktails (it was happy hour after all) whilst listening to a local band. It was Sunday the next day, most of the places were closed but we managed to find a taxi driver willing to take us around. The plan was to visit the 7 coloured earth dunes, hike down the 7 waterfalls, visit the temple and then have a swim on a nice beach.

Our appointed taxi driver picked us up at 08:30 and then our ‘tour’ started. After visiting the 7 coloured earth dunes, we were taken to a view point where we could ‘see’ the 7 waterfalls.  When we told him we wanted to hike down, he stopped at a remote ‘view point’ and we started ‘hiking’.  Pretty soon we realised that we were dropped off at the wrong place and started to hike back.  Lucky for us, we bumped into a couple in love.  They said we must follow them......  It turned out to be the 5 minute story again.  A couple of “5 minutes’ later, we arrived at a very well-marked path.  I asked the girl to explain to our taxi driver where we must be picked up and she told him it was in front of a temple.  After a steep hike down, I had to jump into the pool.  Once back, we realised that our taxi driver was still missing.  A couple of phone calls later, he arrived, apologizing profusely.  He was waiting at a different temple.  

Abseiling down a waterfall

Looking for a nice beach where we could swim on a Sunday was not the greatest idea. Busloads of people were everywhere and when we had to use a toilet, we had to compete with 20 other people getting dressed in a 2 X 6 m room. To celebrate another adventurous day, we stopped for more cocktails.

The same taxi driver who drove us from the airport arrived to pick us up.  I opened my window, fastened my seatbelt and tried not to vomit whilst he drove 80 km around the bends, abruptly stopping for every speed bump in the road.

It was definitely a great adventure and realising that there are countries where the people are honest and so helpful, was so inspirational.

Egypt - May 2015

Day 1: After missing my flight to Cape Town 2 months ago, I made sure that I was first in the queue to board the aeroplane.  On my way through, the security guys noticed something suspicious and discovered a scissor in my bag.  I was unaware that it was in my first aid kit but since it was blunt, I was allowed to keep it. But then the security guy spotted the cable tie that was supposed to keep my mascot Fluff tied to my bag.  I was told that it could be used against me and was solemnly confiscated.

I asked for a seat next to the exit, but the lady clearly misunderstood me or maybe she’s never seen the inside of an aeroplane before. I found myself in a seat that could not recline in front of the toilet. Luckily the aeroplane was not full and I moved the second the safety belt sign went off.  I now found myself behind a guy who occupied the 4 seats in front of me.  He was clearly an ADD sufferer – and on a scale from 1 to 10 – I would definitely rate him as at least an 8.  He did not sit still for a second – and every now and again I had to duck and dive as his arms would come flying to the back, missing my face by inches. 

The guy occupying the 4 seats behind me had a broken leg and every time (which was way more than the average person would) he got up to get something from his bag – he would bump my seat.  I was stuck between a rock and a hard place. Most of the passengers claimed 4 seats and I was definitely not going back to the seat that could not recline. 

I have just found a position to avoid being hit in the face and kicked in the back when I was served my vegetarian meal.  I do not consider myself a vegetarian.  I just don’t eat meat.  Announcing that you are a vegetarian, they will serve you mushrooms, onions, garlic the works, which I do not eat.  But I have forgotten about this – and lo and behold – there was my meal and mushrooms were the main ingredient.

At 4:00 we were woken and breakfast was served. Since I asked for a vegetarian meal, I got 2 dry buns and fruit salad.  The rest of the passengers got a fresh croissant and fruit salad. 

Day 2: I knew about airports and being harassed – but I have done some googling and was adamant to take a taxi (No more than EP100) to the bus depot where I would wait for 6 hours before getting on the only bus going daily to St Catherine’s which would take eight hours.  I was going to see the sun rise on Egypt’s highest peak, Jebel Katerina and nothing was going to stop me.

Whilst waiting patiently for my luggage, I was approached by a guy who worked for the tourism board. He said he could get me a taxi for EP300 which will include a trip to the pyramids before the depot drop off. He also said that I was misinformed and that there were regular busses to St Catherin’s. I was going to pay EG100 for the taxi plus spend 6 hours waiting for a bus so it seemed reasonable to pay EG200 extra for some serious site seeing.  

It was all legal – I got a receipt and was introduced to Safat, my driver.  I stopped in a shop at the airport to buy some water, but it turned out that the owner did not have change, so Safat paid for it.  A full EP20. Just before we left, Carlos, his friend jumped in the car.  It turned out that Safat could not speak one word of English and needed a translator. 

The first question asked was:  How old are you?

Second one:  Where is your husband?

Carlos fell head over heels in love with me for some bizarre reason. 

Unexpected visit to the pyramids

I was utterly surprised to see so many different modes of transport.  Cyclist, donkey carts, horses, busses, motor bikes, camels and the local white kombi taxis driving with the engine open. And at least 70% of the drivers were smoking whilst driving on all the modes of transport. I have been warned about the traffic in Cairo, but it was not that bad – until I realised it was only 07:00.  

Once at the pyramids, I was told that it would cost EP150 for a horse cart.  I objected, saying that I was under the impression that the EP300 included everything. The price came down to EP80. The gates only opened at 08:00 and I was taken to a balcony to admire the view. By now, Carlos has told me that I was very cute and that he can’t believe I am not married. 

Finally the gates opened.  I paid the EP 80 to the guy who organised the horse cart discount and although I am not a big fan of history, it was a nice trip in the horse buggy driving around the pyramids.  At one stage, we stopped and the driver said he will take a picture but I must put my arm in a certain position.  It came out brilliantly – and seemed as if I was holding the pyramid in my hand.  I was then asked by an elderly gentleman if I wanted my picture taken on a camel with some local clothes on – it was after all for free.  I did not fall for that one – although in hind sight – maybe I should have had one taken. But then maybe not. 

After 30 minutes, we were back at the gates and the horse guy asked for his EP80.  I sort of exploded and said I was under the impression that was what I was paying for at the gate. 
He left a bit grumpy and Carlos and myself walked around the place a bit.  By now, I was starting to feel really uncomfortable.  He was looking at me as if I was an apparition telling me that I was so cute and that he would like to get married to me and do whatever I wanted him to do.  It could have been my imagination but he looked quite sad when I declined his offer.  He tried one last time by asking me what it was exactly that I was looking for in a husband.

Outside, my taxi driver was having a small argument with a shop owner who wanted him to pay EP20 for parking in front of his store.  After getting some water from a shop, the fun started.  I discovered that the taxi driver had no clue where the bus station I was supposed to get the bus to St Catherina, was.

He drove around smoking all the time for what seemed like hours stopping at places asking for directions. I was getting quite agitated.  How could he not know where the place was? The clock was ticking and luckily I did not fall for Mr Tourism guy’s story that there was a bus to St Catherin’s every hour.  I did not consider myself a tourist, see historical places and buy souvenirs. I wanted to get to the mountains.    

We finally got there 20 minutes before the bus left. When the taxi driver asked for EP20, I just about exploded.  A lack of sleep, the knowledge that I was not ‘your normal tourist and that I was most probably being ripped off”, I do suffer from this fear of having a full bladder whilst having to drive for hours.  I knew this trip would take 8 hours.  The bus driver confirmed my fear.  No toilet on board. 

By the time the bus arrived, I have been up and down the stairs 3 times to visit the loo. On my 3^rd visit, I was accosted by a very hostile looking ‘toilet’ attendant. I hurriedly explained my irrational fear to her in Afrikaans and gave her a hefty tip. 

Just before the bus turned the corner I looked back and there she was standing at the exit – a perplexed but not unhappy expression on her face. 

The Bedouin Camp

Sitting in a bus I now noticed that there was not one scratch free car on the road.  8 Hours later, after a brief stop for lunch, we arrived in St Katherina’s. I had no clue what awaited but followed a fellow travelers advice.  I got in a taxi – and was dropped a full 50 m further at the Bedouin camp! 

At first I thought it was crazy to keep extra blankets in a room but it did turn chilly.  

Day 3: Group of extremely loud volunteers + they arrived at midnight + they left at 04:00 slamming doors + gravel = maximum of 2 hours sleep for me. Since the kitchen was still closed, I settled for a breakfast I won’t recommend:  Muesli in cold water.  I do, however lose my appetite when it is so hot so it was not a problem. I was an eager beaver and went exploring – and discovered after taking my 4^th picture that I left my camera’s sim card at home but luckily I was able to buy one. Note to myself: Get more organised! 

Things moved at a slow pace but I was finally informed that I would start my hike to Egypt’s highest peak – St Katherins at midnight – which will enable me to see the sun rise on an African Peak.  The camp is not the quietest of places.  The lounge was a popular place and people kept on dropping by – unfortunately, it was very close to my room. But I drifted in and out of sleep.  I just love hiking at night and was eagerly waiting outside the camp for my guide (Farham).  Salah, the owner of the camp who seemed to never sleep, was also sitting outside the gate and told me to make a wish before I start the hike. I made two: I wanted to stop the anger inside me after being emotionally abused two years ago and I wanted to start trusting people again. 

My guide on Jebel Katherina

Day 4: Our hike officially started at 00:30.  My guide, Farham smoked and coughed non-stop and I must admit, I got quite a fright when I saw his yellow teeth.  The 6 hour hike turned into a 4 hour hike so it was still dark when we arrived on top. My guide lit a candle in the hut on top and whilst I waited for the sun to rise, he took a nap. It was freezing on top, but when he started to make a fire inside the hut whilst smoking non-stop, I decided to wait outside the hut.  It was not long before I was offered 2 cups of tea and a cup of very welcome coffee.

I expected the hike down through a valley with no distinct path to be a walk in the park but it turned out to be a huge park.  Except for scree, the first stretch was easy. Then came the huge boulders.  It took me 30 minutes to get over the fear of falling down whilst just walking down most of the boulders and my hiking sticks remained in my backpack. After an hour, I was convinced that I was going to lose a toe-nail or two. I also got over confident – jumped to the next boulder and excruciating pain followed my landing.  

The next stretch was through a river bed and every time I had to bend my left knee, I was in agony.  Trying not to put strain on my left knee left me with an aching bum muscle after 20 minutes and trying to be positive, I reminded myself that at least I am not just going to focus on my aching knee.  I started to count to 3 – one two three and imagined myself dancing.  It helped a bit.

When Farham asked me if I was okay – I pointed to my knee before giving him the thumbs up. According to him, the next stretch to the village would take about an hour. It turned out to be stairs and a nightmare but I made it.  When we passed his house, he ran inside and came out with some anti-inflammatory for my knee.  I was also invited to his house for supper.

After a siesta, my knee felt a lot better.  I was planning to see the sunrise on Mt Sinai the following morning, which meant I would have to start hiking at 01:00 – but common sense told me to take a break.  I had, after all still a lot of mountains to climb. At 18:00, I went to Farham’s place where I met his family and had some very sweet tea.  I declined supper and on my way back, I bumped into Salah, who said we can go and watch the stars at 22:00.  I dozed off and when my alarm went off, I got up reluctantly.  I did get a bit worried when he told me that the road changed a lot and we missed a turnoff or two, but we did get to the eco-lodge eventually. 

Day 5: I got a lift to the monastery and felt really special not to be treated like a tourist. I have a problem with too many choices so choosing which crystals to buy turned into a

The crystal shop

nightmare but I was more than happy to get a lift on a camel back to the camp. 

At 13:30, I started hiking to Mt Mousa with Fahar.  I have a terrible sense of direction and when he told me at the basin to hike up on my own, I got a bit pissed off but I found the steps eventually and started to cry almost immediately. This was the holiest of all the holy mountains yet it was covered with litter.  I was mesmerized by her and very emotional.  I was unsure of where I was supposed to go with my life and when I asked God what I was supposed to do – I got the answer:  You don’t have to do anything.  

A shop on Mt Sinai

I did not want to leave, but I was scared of getting lost in the dark and after a while, I reluctantly followed two tourists going down to the basin. There are shops along the stairs to the top but because of a decline in tourists, most of the shops were closed. We went down the easy way via the monastery and I could not help but laugh when I saw some tourists wearing masks, going up to the top on camels.  I did not think the camel I was given a lift on the morning was smelly at all.  Fahar was supposed to arrange a lift back, but I guess all the smoking got to him.  Luckily someone took pity on us and we got a lift back to the camp, where I declined his supper invitation.

Mt Sinai

The view from the top of Mt Sinai

Sunset on Mt Sinai

Day 6:  I was waiting patiently for the bus when I discovered I still had the key to my room.  I ran back and a guy passing me asked me what I was waiting for?  When I said the bus – he grabbed my bag and we ran to the “real” bus depot and I made it just in time. Watching the sun set on top of Mt Mousa, I considered staying – but here I was, sitting on a bus I almost missed, on my way back to crazy Cairo. I felt blessed and happy after deciding to follow Salah’s advice to live with my heart.

I was not even aware of any conflict in Egypt until I got to Mt Sinai and on our way back to Cairo, there were army guys all along the road – some sitting in canons but I did not ask any questions.  The bus driver dropped me just before the station after I explained that I was going to a hotel close to the airport.  I then showed a taxi driver the address of the hotel.  Driving in Cairo is past crazy but as soon as I looked worried, the driver would shake my hand and say ‘Fish Kabal’ and laugh.  He did not even stop when he bumped into a car in front of us.  When we stopped in front of the airport, I showed him once again the address of the “Helioppis” hotel.  He looked shocked, said ‘Fish kabal’ and off we sped – to the wrong hotel.  I was tired and stranded with only 17 EP on me.  Luckily the receptionist took pity on me and explained to Mohammed, another taxi driver that I only had 15 EP on me and that he must take me to the Helioppis hotel.  It was yet again another misunderstanding and he only calmed down after I told him he could take me to the airport early the next morning and that I would have enough money on me. Since my flight was at 5:15, he would pick me up in front of the hotel at 2:30 to take me to the airport.  Before he screeched off – he shouted that I must be in front of the hotel by 2:30.

Day 7: I discovered that I had to be at to the airport earlier and because I did not have my slightly aggressive taxi driver’s phone number, I took another taxi to terminal 3 at the airport.  He did not know a lot of English words and kept on saying: " No worry, Your’re welcome and I love you, I’m sorry"

The airport, however was humongous and after driving around for 20 minutes, he said “I’m sorry, don’t know the place.  I love you.  At one stage I said I love you too.  He stopped, turned around and said I love you 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7!!!!

I got there in time.  The guy in front of me refused to take his shoes off before going through the x-ray machine but his friends persuaded him after 15 very long minutes.  At the check in counter they said there was a problem with my ticket but 20 minutes, everything was cleared by the manager.  And then they discovered that my Morrocan visa has expired before I even left South Africa.  It was 2:30 and I was devastated.  I got a taxi back and at the hotel, a fuming Mohammed was waiting.  I explained to him about the change in my flight time and it was only after the door man explained to him that he cooled down. 

I explained to him that I had to be at the bus shelter at 11:00 and that he can pick me up at 10:00.  I had no choice; the universe has decided that I was going back to Sinai.  By now, I could not sleep for more than two hours.  I was up at 5:00 and started looking for a sim card.  Cairo was no walk in the park and traffic was hectic so I walked alongside an elderly couple whilst crossing the road, praying that I won’t be hit by a car.  I was waiting anxiously outside the hotel but when Mohammed was not there by 10:10, I jumped into another taxi – and I could just imagine Mohammed swearing when he arrived finally. But it turned out to be a good decision. The traffic was crazy as usual and I got to the bus station just in time.  This time, I was greeted very friendly by the loo lady and the bus crew.

Back at the camp, I was welcomed like a lost daughter and I was told that they knew I would be back. It is what it is and I slept for 8 hours straight.

Day 8: Around 11:00 I was off to Abbas Bashe with a new guide.  After stopping for a very long tea-break, we got to the magnificent top.  Coming down my new guide helped me to pick up litter and back at the camp, another hike was arranged. I was then told that tourist

My guide picking up litter

stopped coming to Egypt and instead of the guides working one a week, it was only once a month now.

Omar, a friend I met there, bought me a very nice falafel. Pickled onions, feta, gherkins – but I soon discovered that it was not the best meal to have before a hike.

I was flabbergasted when one of the teenage boys asked me to tell him about sex.  I tried to hide my discomfort and googled ‘how to make love’ and almost had a heart attack when I got onto what must have been, a porno site.  I then googled ‘how to kiss’ – and got more or less the same video.  I was in shock and felt sorry for the poor boy, which surely must have been traumatised.  I was obviously not the best sex educator and gave up.

I only brought one book to read with me – and after reading it for the second time, I was ecstatic to find another English one and started reading – only to discover that 100 pages were missing – which was better than reading my book for the 3^rd time I guess.

Day 9: Normally I have muesli in my coffee for breakfast. But the kitchen was closed so I used game mixed with cold water instead and it turned out to be the worst breakfast I have had in my entire life.  But Africa is not for sissies and I needed the energy.

My 3^rd guide on this trip arrived, he had the worst teeth I have seen on a human and snorted the whole time.  But he smiled a lot, sang a couple of songs and once on top, he shared his bread and eggs with me.

The breathtaking view

Going down, he saw me pick up a tin.  The next moment he grabbed a bag and started picking up litter.  I could sense his love of the mountains.  Once the bag was full, he would make a fire to burn the rubbish before we started hiking.

Back at the camp, I decided that I have had enough of provitas, laughing cow & nuts and ordered an omelette – which turned out to be fantastic and made up for the horrible breakfast I had.

With the Minister of Environmental Affairs arranging the cleanup

Day 10: After another lovely omelette for breakfast, I walked to the monastery and after my sleeping pattern of only sleeping for two hours at a time, I was pleasantly surprised to find myself napping from 9:00 till14:00.  I then set of to buy some fruit and I was greeted by the surprised shopkeepers who saw me leaving a couple of days before. I was restless and started to talk about a clean-up of Jebel Moesah. The rest of the day I sat around chatting to Omar and Higase.

Day 11: It was just another ‘normal’ evening where I would sleep for two hours, read my book with the 100 missing pages and sleep another 2 hours. By 7:00 we were on our way to another peak.  Our driver turned out to be the teenager I still felt guilty about corrupting but he could not wait to show me what he has googled about sex on his phone.  I just shouted “NOOOOOOO!” before setting off at an incredible pace to the top of the mountain.  At one stage, I stopped along a field of lovely flowers and when I asked if I can take a picture, I was told no – and only realised later that it was a poppy field. I can understand that people don’t feel rushed and after not seeing their friends for days – or even months, they would like to stop and chat.  But at every ‘stop’ – and there were many – I was basically forced to drink very sweet tea (and I normally don’t drink sugar in my coffee). I got a bit impatient and finally saw the pick-up car 30m away but no – there was one long last visit – and yes, I felt obliged to drink the very, very sweet tea.

Omar and myself went for supper and since I am on the extreme fussy side when it comes to food – I ordered eggs, bread and tomatoes – which was not actually on the menu.  The eggs turned out to be raw, but at least I had bread and tomatoes. 

Day 12: I spend the day in the camp and started chatting to a Norwegian lady called Hilda.  She was in St Katherins to see a doctor. 5 Minutes after meeting her, I was stunned when she told me that what I though was anger inside me – was pain.  I accompanied her to the traditional healer and afterwards, I was taken to the Parksboard, where I arranged a clean-up of Mt Moussa. I was given 9 big bags and donkeys would be send up the next day to collect the rubbish and drop off more bags.

Day 13: My guide and myself started hiking at 5.  There were tons of litter along the way and

It's impossible to stay clean when you pick up litter

6 hours later, I was dead tired and dying of thirst.  We got to Elija’s basin where I was forced to have terrible noodles and whilst my guide slept, I cleaned the camp.  Then I was off to the summit, and bumped into a dog who followed me all the way.  Two boys joined me picking up litter and I had quite a fall when I tried to take a picture of them. They went down with two bags – but I have run out of litter bags. When I asked a shopkeeper whose dog it was, he just said “Free dog”.  Free, who looked a bit sick to me, became my shadow and after getting some warm clothes at the camp,

Free, the mountain dog

we headed back to spend more time admiring the majestical mountain.  Elija’s basin is a ‘shelter’ surrounded by a 2 meter wall and although my guide forgot to get a key, we were able to get inside by climbing over several ‘obstacles’. Once back at the camp, I ‘stole’ some of my food the guide tried to force me to eat and gave it to Free.  One moment he was there and the next he was running up a cliff like a wolf.  It was getting dark and he watched me from the top – all I could see was his silhouette and his eyes.

My guide was visiting his friends and I was more than happy on my own.  Just before I fell asleep, I suddenly saw Free lying in front of me, staring at me.  I gave him more bread and started to worry that he might attack my guide when he climbs over the wall and how I was going to get him over the wall.

Day 14: When I got up at 4 – Free was gone.  He was, however waiting with a smaller dog where the steps started.  I was so glad to see him.  I walked up and once down, he stayed.  I noticed that there were no bags and decided to go down the mountain to get him some medicine.  I felt terrible.  When he followed me down the steps, I had to throw a stone at him

Going down the 3000 steps of repentance

= but I was not sure what the other dogs in the village would do to him.  When I told Salah about it – he said I should not worry about him – he would come down if he needed help and that he’s done it before.  I decided to hike back and find him

Day 15:  I did not sleep a lot and we set off at 04:00.  After hiking for an hour, I started to feel dizzy.  The previous year, I had a couple of episodes and the doctors first said it was mini strokes, then epileptic fits, anxiety attacks and finally – no one could tell me what caused the episodes.  I could not speak properly and even walking 1 meter turned out to be a battle.  I was totally disorientated.  Mohammed, my guide phoned sheik Mousa – first of all to inform the army that we would be coming down so we won’t get shot and secondly to come and assist me getting down the mountain.

Salah finally arrived and together with Mohamed they assisted me down the mountain. They all thought it was because I did not eat properly, did not sleep enough and climbed too many peaks.  Salah said we would go and fetch the dog later.

After sleeping for ten hours, I was forced to have some veggie soup.  I then told Salah I wanted to go and see the doctor – but he drove past the one I wanted to go to.  When I mentioned it – he said he was a quack. He took me to another wise man who told Salah that I see too far and that I never stop thinking.  I was given thick yellow medicine to squirt up my nose.  Salah then took me to the monastery and we found Free.  He was very reluctant to get on the bakkie, but I managed to pick him up.  We bribed him with chicken feet to get him inside the compound.  Then he was treated on a nice chicken meal

Day 16: Free was still in front of my door – but when I left, I had to lock him in the bathroom.  I believed he escaped as soon as someone opened the door.  He is a mountain dog after all. This time, I was a seasoned bus traveller and really made myself comfortable on the bus.

As soon as we arrived in Cairo, I took a taxi to the airport.  Once again, it was a ride out of hell.  I arrived at the airport 8 hours before my flight.  I immediately bonded with a lady from Tunisia and we spend 6 hours trying to spend E400 drinking coffee. I was told that I could not exchange the money.  Luckily, my gal bladder survived the ordeal. 

Once through the departure gate, I was basically forced to buy E400’s Tobblerone! What a difficult decision. 

I never expected the magic of the mountains, or the kindness of the people.  This trip really changed my life and from the bottom of my heart, I would like to thank the kind souls I met who

• told me to make a wish before climbing St Katherins
• told me that the past is gone and to look to the future
• took me to see the stars and told me fascinating stories
• cooked and always smiled
• told me 15 minutes after meeting me that it is not anger I felt, but pain
• and that I should go to the mountain and cry
• helped to clean the holy mountain
• helped me and carried me down the mountain
• told me that the reason I got sick was because my mind never stops 

I would also like to thank the Moroccan embassy who stuffed up my visa and to the crazy drivers in Cairo – they showed me that getting lost is not the end of the world.  As long as you have a sense of humour.