South Africa – Drakensburg – More Exploration

30 December 2008: After quite an eventful night at Witsieshoek mountain retreat where we had to battle with the plumbing (after a search for the tap handles, only to find that there was no hot water, later no water at all and then the pipes complaining throughout the night), we were more than ready to explore the mountains around Phuthaditjhaba. We couldn’t have hoped for better weather. We followed several cattle trails down to the Fika Patso dam and several river crossings followed.

Several river crossings followed

Chris had been studying the topographic maps and was the only one that knew where we were heading. During one of the interesting downhills, Jenny twisted her ankle badly and the going was slowed down. There were many locals around and we were asked for food and even water every time we were approached by a group. One guy said that there was cholera in the water but maybe his English was not that good. Nevertheless, I begged some chlorine tablets from Jen, getting the ratio and waiting times mixed up thus providing the opportunity for much laugher and reducing the tension that had built up. We were very aware of the thefts taking place on top of the Sentinal and we have just stumbled upon a “coming off age” ceremony and were made to feel most unwelcome.

The amount of caves in the area was mind blowing. We finally made it to Suoi cave, where we set off cleaning the cave before settling down for the evening. It was decided that Warren and myself would follow Chris the following day and Phillip would keep Jenny, who at this stage could hardly walk, company and fix up the cave.

31 December 2008: The weather couldn’t have been better but the two bachelors, Warren and Chris took their time and we finally got away by 6am.  The general idea was to explore the unknown passes. The going was extremely tough since there were no paths and the grass was extremely lush. (Not to mention the patches of Chi Chi bush)

Bundu bashing through the chi chi bush

A long ascent followed before we finally reached the exposed grassy slopes. Trying not to hyperventilate, I reminded myself to get some help for my “must be old age and some bad experiences” fear of heights once I reach civilization. 

Steep uphill - I am getting too old for this!

Luckily, Chris and Warren came to my rescue. Chris grabbed me by my backpack and Warren shoved me from behind. We decided to have a short break. I was trying my level best whilst sitting under a dripping rock NOT TO LOOK DOWN, while the two bachelors were chatting away, admiring the lovely EXPOSED VIEW and baking in the warm sun.

Chris, Warrick and myself on top of the just named pass.

The chattering of my teeth announced that it was time to go.

Warren was talking to himself most of the way and when I asked him what the conversation was about he said, “I am crazy going with you guys!”.

The view was spectacular and after one last scramble, by 14h00, we reached the top of the escarpment. Chris christened the pass Black Wall pass and built a big cairn and then it was time for lunch. It was very noticeable that there was no litter to be found, which enforced our feeling that no one had been up this pass.  We scrambled down another unknown pass and Warren had several falls, injuring his knee. Every stumble was followed by the mug attached to his bag clanging, Warren falling and me asking, “Warren, are you all right?” Luckily it was not too bad and I could convince Warren that his cup clanging was not irritating me but rather warning me to get out of his way.  A long excruciating downhill followed (have I mentioned that my left big toenail was removed 3 weeks ago and it was still very tender?) and by 17h00, with my feet begging for a new owner, we stumbled into the cave. Jenny’s ankle was swollen badly and it was decided to take the easiest route out the next morning. Our new year’s celebration lasted exactly until 20h00.

1 January 2009: With a large bag of litter strapped to my backpack (mostly sardine cans left by locals), we headed straight for Fika Patso dam, hoping to catch a taxi on the main road. Locals having a braai next to the dam wall couldn’t believe their eyes when we walked past them and they insisted on taking some pictures of the crazy hikers that had appeared out of nowhere. Further down we bumped into more locals who were showing off their skills on a quad bike. They were reluctant to give us a lift, claiming that they were out for the day enjoying themselves and did not want to be interrupted. We had forgotten that it was a public holiday and that everyone was in a party mood. The road took us straight into Phuthaditjaba where everyone was once again extremely surprised to see us. We had to explain to everyone where we came from and where we were heading. The one lady informed us that we should have just gone over the mountain but after trying to explain the situation to her she just nodded her head in a strange way.

A cute worm

Finally we convinced a local to take Chris and Phillip to the resort to retrieve the vehicles. Jenny, myself and Warren kept on walking along the road. In a short while the locals who had given Chris and Philip the lift passed us, shouting that Chris and Phillip would be with us shortly. A long wait followed and still no sign of them or the vehicles. Finally they arrived and explained that they had been delayed because Phillip had barricaded the toll road and refused to budge until the official returned their toll money as he had promised. Happily reunited, off we went to the Shell garage for a quick wash and to repack the cars. The decision was that Chris, myself and Phillip would go exploring in Lesotho while Jenny and Warren return to Gauteng. A short and memorable trip through Golden Gate took us to Fouriesburg Country inn where we spent the night – a place I highly recommend.

2 January 2009: The start of our adventure in Lesotho. After studying the Lesotho map and consulting with some locals, it was decided to take the scenic route to Katse dam. Phillip and Chris were enjoying the 4X4 thing while I was sitting in the back, trying not to notice all the pot holes in the road. Around 12h00 a puncture stopped us. Since we had intended a 6 day hike in the mountains and not a 4X4 trip in Lesotho, I had left most of the repair kit and tools at home. While Chris and Phillip were changing the tyre, a 4X4 passed us, informing us that we were on a private road leading to a mine (opened 2 years ago) and that the road to Katse that we intended to take was pretty bad after the rains. We decided to have the tyre fixed in Matlehong and then head on to Sani Top Chalets. 

Chris and myself on top of a pass in Lesotho

The Supa Quick shop we had expected to find turned out to be 4 old tyres next to the road. Le Duc, the owner, had to be fetched from the river and charged us R80 to fix the puncture.  Relaxed and happy that once more we had a spare, the adventure continued. The feeling didn’t last very long because 20 minutes after leaving Matlehong we heard a big bang. The tyre Le Duc had just fixed, exploded. – obviously his air pump gauge was faulty and he had over inflated the tyre. We stopped to inspect the damage and did our usual wave to the locals and realized that they were not waving back but rather throwing stones at us.  We jumped into the car and sped off, absolutely shocked at the hostility shown us.

This was definately some sort of celebration

The erosion due to over grazing around Matlehong was incredibly bad.  The mountains were a desert landscape. (Who said that it was difficult to break a mountain?). We arrived at Sani Top Chalet at 16h00 where we were welcomed by the owner and given the following sleeping options since the place was packed

·   share a hut with the locals

·   share a room with the owner and his 3 big dogs

·   take over Liam’s room, a tourist from England, forcing him to share a room with the owner and his 3 big dogs.

Taking into account Phillip’s snoring it was unanimously decided to kick Liam out of his room.

3 January 2009: One look at the owner’s face the next morning convinced me that he didn’t get too much sleep the previous night. (Phillip’s snoring must have gotten to him since his dogs made it impossible to close his door).

The litter on top of Sani Pass

After breakfast, the nightmare trip down began. Since I suffer from a fear of 4X4ing, I chose to close my eyes during the first part of the road down Sani Pass.  The road turned out to be a highway with at least 15 4X4s passing us and the expressions on the drivers’ faces were all the same. Did you get down in this little 4X4?  Once again, Cutie, my little 1300 Daihatsu Terios had stood the test.

The very steep winding road down Sani Pass

Yes, she made it down!

The tyres were quickly sorted out in Underberg and we headed to Kgotso Backpackers where two hours of horse riding in the mountains followed. The backpackers was full and most of the guests were international tourists waiting to go on 4X4 trips or pony trekking into Lesotho.

4 January 2009: Time to head home. The guys had not yet had enough of dirt roads and decided to take all the “off the beaten tracks” whilst I tried to sleep or read, already thinking of dates for the next trip to the mountains.

South Africa – The Amatola Mountains

The brochure I received about the Amatola hiking trail suggested an early start. We were, however staying in one of the cottages at Starways Pottery in Hogsback and needless to say we could not help but get involved in the preparations for the opening of the Rose Theatre on the premises.

After Anton van der Merwe, the owner and master potter of Starways, showed me how to operate the chainsaw there was no stopping me and Sam, an artist from Scotland and within hours we had built the bar for the theatre. Phillip and Anton finalized the roof while the band consisting of Elliot and Pierce had us all in a cheerful mood after their practice session. Pretty soon it was time to work on my culinary skills, or should I rather say my decorative skills since 40 pizzas had to be made and what better oven to bake them in than the pottery oven!

The opening went exceptionally well and the music had everyone in a relaxed mood.

Day 1: Marden Dam to Gwili Gwili. (12 km - 7 hours)

Unfortunately, waking up at 5 am the next morning left me less chirpy than usual. Vale, Anton’s daughter, was kind enough to take me and Phil to Marden Dam where we started our first day hike. We decided on taking the short cut after we were informed of 1000 bee stings received the previous week by two hikers who were forced to abandon their hike. Hiking through the Pirie forest gave new meaning to sweating and made me feel good about my resolution (old year?) to get fit! What a great way to start!  We could hear birds singing all the time but it was only the Knysna Louries that showed themselves. Vermiculture was also given a new meaning when we learned that giant earthworms reaching up to 6m were responsible for the ever present heaps on the paths. Gwili Gwili hut was a pleasant surprise and since I was not expecting hot water, I was not too disappointed when we discovered that there was none. It started raining 15 minutes after we arrived and the rain only stopped an hour before we had to leave the next morning.

Day 2: Gwili Gwili to Dontsa (18 km - 8 hours).

The hike was predominantly through the moist indigenous forests and we once again could hear birds chirping all the way. We took the lower route at the Dontsa forest station which left us with some climbing near the end. Phillip couldn’t resist swimming in one of the lovely pools and refused to remove the pair of RayBan sunglasses he had picked up on the path. At the hut after another cold shower it started to rain and we were forced to move to another room since the roof started leaking rather badly.

Day 3: Dontsa to Cata  (17 km - 10 hours)
We decided to stick to indigenous forests and shorter routes and after reaching the Eseka Stream we opted for the  upper route. I was getting quite confident in my navigation skills and showed Phillip exactly where we were. After explaining to him that we should just follow the jeep track for another 4 km, I set off, leaving him to enjoy his snooze next to the path.  I was an inspired woman! It wasn’t long before I heard Phillip shouting at me – apparently I had taken the wrong route. My explanation for not finding any footprint markers along the way was that according to my reading of the map the route was so obvious and they weren’t needed!

A long 6 km followed and we reached the lovely hut without having to use headlamps. According to the journal left at the hut, we were not the only hikers getting lost.

Day 4: Cata to Mnyameni (13.5 km - 8 hours)

According to the brochure, one of the finest days hiking you are ever likely to experience is day 4 of the Amatola Trail. The trail was not laid out to get you simply from A to B, but rather to take you past the most spectacular and scenic spots you could wish to see. Unfortunately I did not find this amusing as the trail kept on cutting back to the extent that we seemed to almost be returning to our starting point. Picking up all the litter that the previous hikers had left around the hut left me in an even sulkier mood. Luckily we were still not expecting hot water.

Day 5: Mnyameni to Zingcuka (18.2 km - 10 hours)
The day started with a stiff climb up through another enchanting forest. I found this the best day and we could see the surrounding mountains most of the way. Phillip had several dips in and naps alongside the many rock pools. 

Day 6: Zingcuka to Tyumie River (15 km - 7 hours)

Due to heavy mist and after getting lost in the forest we were forced to take the forestry road to Hogsback. I found walking in the mist special with huge trees along the road and next to no visibility creating a wondrous atmosphere.

Two days later we were back at Zingcuka hut and completed the last leg of the hike in perfect weather. This time we were accompanied by Vale, Anton’s daughter. The whole mountain was covered in flowers and all along the route we were presented with fantastic views and we finally got to see a lot of birds.

Except for the zig-zaging from Cata to Mnyameni on day 4 and the huts not being maintained properly, I can definitely recommend this hike. The fact that the huts couldn’t lock was something to get used to.

South Africa – Drakensberg – Ship’s Prow

The invitation to join Chris Sommers on his hike up Ship’s Prow (Northern Fork) and down Gray’s pass couldn’t have come at a better time.  Arranging 15 SOAPkidz events and involving 3538 people in environmental projects during the past 9 months had left me depleted of any spare energy.

The group would consist of

·       Chris Sommers – very fit, the leader and Drakensberg fundi who has saved my life on several occasions in the Berg. (I suppose that he put my life in jeopardy to start with does not really count)

·        Phillip van der Merwe, whose fear of heights was displaced by a fear of death on the previous trip to the Drakensberg, still very unfit, especially since he was also involved with the arranging of the 15 events and has yet again decided to give up smoking on the hike (Help!)

·        Kim Lesley– Phillip’s school friend, extremely fit but a novice to the group and the great Dragon.

·        Warren – Energetic and motivated for his fourth hike in the Berg. Good company, especially for himself, as he has the habit of talking to himself whilst hiking. Well prepared this time with his newly acquired Gortex bivvy bag after being caught in a wind and snow storm during our previous encounter with the Berg.

·        Myself – very unfit and desperate to escape the noise pollution and recharge my batteries in the beautiful Berg.

Day 1: We left Pretoria at 5 am and arrived at Monk’s Cowl KZN Wildlife office around 11 am.  The 12 km hike was unadventurous and we were all relieved to pitch our tents in day light – it has been a long day and an even longer year.

Day 2: Five eager hikers were up by 4 am and ready to start the hike by 6 am. Phillip was feeling strong and the first 4 km to the start of Ship’s Prow Pass was done on a high note. We encountered our first Chi Chi bush at the bottom of the pass. The struggle with the Chi Chi bushes was interrupted by some serious boulder hopping, followed by gun shots and shouting from persons unknown on the southern fork of Ship’s Prow. 

Bundu Bashing through chi chi bush

Later back at Monk’s Cowl KZN Wildlife office we were told that rustlers were using the pass and that there were two dead cows there. Wondering how cows could possibly get up such a difficult pass, we were informed that the rustlers spread cow dung ahead of the animals and the cows happily followed thinking many cows had gone before. 

The last 1.5 km to the top was filled with some horrific moments when loose rocks came crashing down. Luckily no one was injured and by the time we reached the summit, we were just in time to glance at the sunset.  A mere twelve hours to get up the pass.  Kim who was so carried away admiring the sunset, delayed dressing warmly and got a fright when he entered the first stages of hypothermia .

Kim on top of Ship's prow pass

The wind was howling and five very tired and very quiet hikers hiked the last 2 km in the dark to iNkosazana cave, sharing 3 headlamps and the 1 remaining sense of humour. After 14 hours of hiking, no one was up to eating, Phillip and Kim climbed straight into their sleeping bags and appeared to be in shock.  I had to force feed them and very soon everyone was asleep.  Or almost everyone as I was busy trying to figure out the earplugs I had brought as protection against Phil’s snoring.

Day 3: Kim and Chris went exploring for the day while Warren and myself hiked to Champagne castle. Feeling a bit weak after the previous day’s hike, we were not brave enough to face the howling wind and went back to join Phillip who was lying on three mattresses, still snoring.

Phil, myself and Chris on top of Grey's pass

Warren discovered that we had lost the tent and luckily recovered it upon backtracking. I spend some time cutting grass for the cave and by 3 o’ clock, everyone was back and we decided to hike to Vulture Retreat to look at the magnificent view and watch the sunset.

The magnificent view on top of Grey's pass

Day 4: Walking to the top of Gray’s pass to watch the sunrise we noticed plenty of litter along the river. Two hours were spent picking up the plastics left by the locals and compressing it for transport down Gray’s pass.  By 10h00 we started our descent down Gray’s pass. The going was slow. We stopped regularly to pick up litter and when we finally pitched our tents at the camping spot close the Gatberg, we had collected 3 bags of litter, 99% bread plastic bags.

Trying to fit all the litter into the bags we took along

Day 5: Any ideas about going up Gatberg were put aside. We were on a mission to clean the campsites on our way back.  Picking up all the toilet paper left by, I truly want to believe ignorant women, got me into a raging state.  Finding empty gas canisters put me over the edge. Luckily Phil was there to remind me that by educating the children (SOAPkidz), we were influencing the next generation.

Down Grey's pass

Almost at the end we came across some day hikers. My instinct was to protect the mountain against further litter and so I said “Enjoy your hike, we have just cleaned the mountain for you”. The two girls smiled and politely said, “Thank you.”  Unfortunately the wise ass with them replied, “Don’t worry, I will dirty it for you once more”.  Fortunately for him the rest of our group was strong enough to hold me back.

Some of the litter we brought down the mountain

The Chief in Charge of the Wilderness area was contacted and informed about the litter and guns shots whereupon he provided us with some very positive feedback on the progress they had recently made with the smugglers and rustlers.

We were on the road back to Pretoria by 13h00.

My personal feelings:

·        I consider mountains holy.

·        It is a privilege to be on a mountain and not a right.

·        I don’t have any idea how we can stop the littering by the locals but I do know that I cannot keep quiet about the litter left by hikers. (especially women).

·        The following rule should apply to everyone going to a mountain or wilderness area – Leave the place in a better condition than you found it.

·        Nature conservation is there to preserve what should be precious to us all and visitors should therefore be placed under greater scrutiny. They should be required to detail in a register all food and canisters they have and upon return be required to show the empty packets, canisters etc.  I know that this is difficult to police but at least the message is clear, “What you take up must be brought back”.

·        All visitors must adhere to and sign a Code of Conduct for mountains or wilderness areas.  The Code of Conduct must clearly state all the Do’s and Don’ts relating to ablutions, water usage, litter, wildlife, plants, fires, rock art etc.

·        This Code of Conduct must be promulgated and promoted nation wide.

Botswana – Mount Otse (Otse)

The first time I set foot on Mt Otse was in November 2006. Two friends and I just got back from hiking in Namibia and we had a vague idea where Botswana’s highest peak was. After two hours of asking the locals where the highest peak in Botswana was, we found ourselves in front of Otse’s cheese factory. The lady behind the counter showed me where the highest peak is but warned me not to go the top. According to folklore, people don’t return. My two friends had enough of mountains and it was decided that I must run to the top, try to take pictures of myself on top of Botswana’s highest peak (without reading the camera’s manual and therefore not knowing how the self timer works) and run back.

The second time I set foot on Mt Otse was in September 2007. I had, in the meantime, discovered that there is a trig beacon on top of Botswana's highest peak. Needless to say, I had to go back and find the real highest peak. Crossing the border post at Ramatlabama, the staff informed us that people disappear when they go to Mt Otse. We were, however, adamant and this time I knew exactly where the mountain was. Finding the highest peak could not be that difficult. We found ourselves parked in front of the Cheese factory by 10h00. This time I asked the owner where the highest peak was. By 14h00 we were sipping a beer in the tea garden opposite the cheese factory discussing our hike. Yes, we did find a trick beacon but discovered a higher point about 50 m away. Taking the necessary pictures and coordinates, I can also lay claim to the first lady ever to fall off the “highest peak” in Botswana. It was while trying to recover some of my dignity that I spotted what seemed like a higher peak 3 km away. Decisions! Decisions! We were running out of water and time.

Back at the border post we had a wonderful welcome. The staff came running out of the building to make sure that we were flesh and blood. What a nice welcome back after visiting Botswana’s highest peak.

The third time I set my foot on Mt Otse was in June 2008. This time we wrote “Monalanong Hill” as the place of our visit at the border post. Armed with several GPS coordinates we turned left before the cheese factory and followed the dirt road for a while. By 10h00 we were parked in front of a lodge. Looking at the top of the mountain we slowly unpacked our daypacks. 90 minutes to the top, 90 minutes down. 2 Litre of water and 4 energy bars amongst us would be more than enough. 90 Minutes later we were standing on top of a peak. The highest in Botswana it definitely was not. Far right, I could see the peak I visited in 2006. To our right were the ones we visited in 2007. To our left, about 2 km away, were the ones we saw in 2007. Decisions! Decisions!  With renewed energy we raced to the range 2 km away. To be double sure I measure the peak to the left before rushing off to measure the peak to the right. Alas, somewhere along the line, by eliminating the other possibilities, Eureka! Trig Beacon and all!

For me, every encounter with a mountain is different. Some mountains are gentle, some are unforgiving. Normally I get a sense of a mountain when I lay eyes on her. With Mt Otse I’m still trying to figure out if it is respect.

The conclusion I arrived at after comparing the GPS coordinates I took with a Garmin Vista C with two I got off the internet

• Google Earth’s Highest peak in Botswana was 42 km away
• Peak Bagger’s highest peak in Botswana was 18 km away

South Africa – Drakensberg – The Sky Run

a) The 10 summits on the skyrun

b) The mountaineer’s/hikers/idiots version of the skyrun

c) Doing the skyrun barefoot/in crocs/on one leg

d) How to cross the 39 fences on the skyrun

I’ll leave it in your hands to choose the report’s heading

Day 1: (8 km): Exploring a new part of the Berg was the only requirement I had. When Pieter suggested doing the skyrun, I had to do some research. The only information I got was that it was an adventure race (Ultra marathon) over 120km + and lasted about 2 days. Thinking we need at least some sleep, I stupidly thought we could do it in 4 days. I contacted all the farmers to get permission and on Friday the 25^th of April 2008 we left Pretoria.

On the way to Lady Grey, Pieter showed me the maps and all the peaks we were going to summit. Still terrible with navigation, I just nodded my head. Once in Lady Grey, Otto Oertel from the Mountain Inn Hotel took us with his Caravelle to Tiffendele, pointing at the peaks Pieter couldn’t stop talking about. 5 Minutes after Otto dropped us at Tiffendele Ski Resort – we discovered our hiking sticks were still in his kombi. Thank goodness for cellphones. 10 minutes later we were on our way to Ben Macdui with our hiking sticks. We tried to get as much of the snow that was still left behind after the previous weekend’s fall. Since it was cold and getting dark, we pitched the tent after 8km and got into our sleeping bags immediately.

Day 2: (19 km) One can only sleep so long and we started hiking at 7h30 and headed straight for Edgehill. We were informed by everyone associated with the skyrun to turn left at a certain point but since we were adventurous/mountaineers/idiots we decided to head straight up. This would mean a 20km shortcut and how difficult can it be? Two hours later, we were back at the place the adventure racing experts told us to turn left. Okay, maybe it is not so safe going over the cliffs if you don’t know what’s waiting on the other side. Going down the mountain took ages and we battled with vegetation resembling rose bushes. We didn’t want to go down to the road since it would mean another 10 km. Decisions decisions. We could go down the road the adventure racers take and hike right into the night or we could try contouring again. We tried the contouring bit again. After 4 hours, 15 fence crossings and thousands of the rose bushes, we pitched our tent.

Day 3: (13 km) We started hiking at 7h30 again. According to Pieter, we had to make up for lost time. Belloch peak was waiting. Unfortunately I didn’t read my boots’ washing instructions and leaving them to dry in the sun I presume, was not something they recommend. My toes were in agony and part of the morning’s hike was done barefoot and part in Phil’s imitation Crocs. Pieter’s dream of making up for lost time was shattered. Going up was time consuming (with me it was one step forward, 2 steps sliding back). It was time to make a decision again. Pieter would go up and myself and Phil would slide along slowly. Two hours later, we made it to the top as well. Pieter was stuffed. It took him an hour to get to Belloch peak and back and he’s energy level was at an all time low.

Decisions, decisions. We started contouring. “Pieter, is this part of the skyrun?” I asked two hours later. “No, the skyrun is way over there!” By this time, I have regained my sense of humour. We were doing our own proper skyrun. We were surrounded by beautiful mountains. We decided to camp once the clouds moved in and to wake up early to make up for lost time. Pieter also mentioned a change of plan. By 18h00 Pieter and Phil were snoring!

Day 4: (19 km). We started hiking at 6h00 and by 8h00 Phil’s knee has given in. The going was slow but the view was absolutely breathtaking. I could do with new feet but it was really worthwhile. We stopped at 15h30 below Avoca Peak. We watched a spectacular sunset and the guys couldn’t stop talking about food (especially meat). I kept everyone awake doing 23 Sudokos. So much for bonding. But I did say on day 1 that we were either going to kill one another or bond!

Day 5: (12 km). Why do I enjoy summiting peaks? Well, the view from Avoca explains it all. It was breathtaking. We were on top of the clouds. Another long spectacular hike on a ridge followed. Phil was still battling with his knee. We camped below Snowdon peak at 13h00. At 14h00 Pieter and myself hiked to Snowdon peak. A lazy cold afternoon followed and by 18h00 we were all in bed, hoping for snow

Day 6: (23 km). We woke up at 5h00, expecting snow but were greeted by mist. We waited till sunlight and since the mist was not disappearing we decided to hike down. We bumped into several quadbikers . Phil was keen to phone Otto for a lift and when Pieter said it’s a thing of pride walking to the hotel, Phil said he lost his pride when he turned 30. Unfortunately Pieter is only 29 ¾. The only car we saw hiking down/up the road stopped to ask where we were going. Phil, still limping but not limping enough shouted: “We came from Tiffindele”. “Well, pop in for coffee at Olympus”, the lady replied before speeding off.

I was keen to hike to the hotel (idiot since it was still another 19km and my feet were already looking for a new owner) to fetch Cutie but Pieter convinced me that it was not such a great idea. Coffee at Olympus lead to supper at Olympus. Maureen, Leo and Kathy – Lee were extremely hospitable and after nice red wine and a lovely meal (when Phil asked what vintage (apparently it was the best wine he has ever tasted), Maureen replied Box wine!) we went to sleep. We were all snoring by 21h30.

Day 7: (19 km). We were on the road by 4h30. 19 km of bird watching and some interesting conversations followed. Pieter’s shoes were finally ready for the museum and he suffered a bit with blisters. When we reached the first house in Lady Grey, we were greeted by a lady, Helene Du Preez who was very impressed with our hiking and picking up litter. We were invited for coffee but nothing could stop the guys from having some meat first. (They were talking to the cows on our way down). After a nice bath and something to eat, we went for coffee at Helene’s place. Pieter was invited to develop hiking trails and we visited till late. All plans to sleep a bit forgotten. Back at the hotel, it was once again time for the boys to eat some meat! We chatted to Otto and Dalene and going to bed I was a bit sad, I have met wonderful people the past two days. Hopefully I’ll have an opportunity to meet them again.

Zambia – Mafinga Hills

Ask 5 different people where Zambia’s highest peak is and you will get 5 different answers.

In my search for the correct information the past 15 months, I have tried the following:

• Got international roaming and phoned a surveyor in Zambia
• Contacted the Surveyor General in South Africa, Zambia and Malawi
• Joined a singles website and contacted everyone on the site living in Zambia
• Searched the internet for days
• Tried to contact Ginge Fullen, the guy who climbed the highest peak in all 53 African countries
• Contacted several surveyors, pilots and possible map sources as well as anyone that’s been to Zambia or Malawi recently
• Visited the High Commission of Zambia
• Visited the Surveyor General’s office in Lilongwe

After some search on GoogleEarth, Jimmy Stone summarised everything as follows:

“I found a number of high points in the Mafinga Hills in Zambia. From the different websites, we have the followings points given as the highest in Zambia

1. Lonely planet: Mwanda Peak 2148m
2. Peakbagger website: Zambia high 2164m
3. CIA website: Mafinga hills 2301m

I was a bit doubtful about the CIA website, as their elevation was so much higher than the others (more than 140m). But the elevations found in GoogleEarth at the Mafinga Hills area clearly shows that the highest point in Zambia is clearly higher than the 2164 indicated by PeakBagger. And must be in the 2277 plus range.

The only real issue now is to go climb it. When there, one can visit all three or four high points and that way make sure you have been on the highest point in Zambia.”

Jimmy tragically passed away on 7 March 2007, so it was up to me to go and find the highest peak.

On the 23^rd of June we (Frans Botha, Alan Reynolds and myself) left Pretoria at midnight in my 1300 Terios called Cutie. We traveled via Mozambique (where I got the distinct feeling that stopping South African motorists was every official in Mozambique’s dream come true). When we finally entered Malawi on the 27^th, we were stuck with a driver who will have nightmares about corrupt officials for life.

At the Mosambique border post

On the 7^th of July, we left the Chelinda camp in the Nyika Plateau at 08h30 and arrived at Chief Chambe’s village in Zambia 3 hours later. The road is only for true 4X4 lovers and you have washed away bridges as an added bonus.  

Sunset next to Tete

You definately need a 4X4 and lots of beer for the
passengers

Another day, another bad bridge

The Chief (76 years) insisted on joining us, we reached Mwanda peak 3 hours later. The Chief then prayed for the wellbeing of his people (according to Clever, our guide and translator). The beacon was broken by poachers looking for the steel. We arrived back at his place by 18h00 and were invited for supper, chisembe and relish.  We were also given bags filled with oranges and spinach. We arrived back at Chilinda camp at 24h00. It has been a privilege to visit Zambia’s highest peak on the Nyika Plateau with the 76 year old Chief. 

8^th of July:” Muzungus, Muzungus.” The happy chanting of the friendly Malawian children followed us all the way to Chisenga where we met everyone that was someone in the tiny village. The minister, teacher, chief in charge of the dispensary, policeman, etc. They all believed that Namitowa was the highest peak in Mafinga Hills. Just before we left the Nyika Plateau the previous day we met David Foot, who was kind enough to let us borrow his topographic maps of Mafinga Hills. Al and Frans wanted chicken for supper but there was a conspiracy amongst the vegetarians and the chicken got away.

Fish on top of "Why God Why" sign on the taxi
Don't you just love Africa?

9^th of July: Surrounded by at least 20 children and carrying 50 buns bought at the bakery the previous day, we reached the pine forest by 11h00. I measured the first unnamed peak at 13h00. According to the maps, this was it. In the distance we could, however, see a peak that looked higher. (Does this sound familiar?) We set of in that direction and pitched the tent close to the only water we could find around 18h00.

Me, Alan and the kids on top of the mountain

10^th of July: After 4 hours of hiking, we were back where we started. Disorientated by the mist, we almost climbed the wrong peak. Patches of dense vegetation turned out to be very challenging and the lack of water was becoming a problem so we headed back. We reached the pine plantation by 17h00 and I had to do without a bath since we couldn’t spare 20 drops of water.

Measuring what could be the highest peak

Some serious bundu bashing

11^th of July: Al and myself set off to measure Namitowa hill believing that it was the peak mentioned in Peakbaggers. Once again the mist came rolling in and by 12h00 we have measured Namitowa hill. (A lovely hill with a breathtaking view). We discovered that the peak mentioned in Peakbagger’s was 700m away. With no water left, we decided to go down to the village and return the next day.

12^th of July: After studying the maps again we decided to go to Zambia and climb the 7547 feet peak indicated on the map. The Trade Commissioner of Zambia in Pretoria had given me a letter to give to his brother in which he requested Mr Kaumba to assist us on Mafinga Hill and it was close to where Jimmy thought the highest peak was. We went through a small border post. The Zambian side was closed but we were told that it would be no problem. We could have our passports stamped in Isoko. Our nightmare in Zambia had just begun! At Tendere village I gave the letter to Mr. Kaumba and we were instructed by the Counselor to first go to Isoko to have our passports stamped before climbing the mountain. 6 hours of potholes, petrol fumes and dust followed. Our passports were stamped, we were told to have the vehicle papers sorted in Kapiri Moshi and I was given the Minister of Lands’ phone number. Apparently he could tell me where the highest peak in Zambia was. I was put on hold three times and was then informed by the expert himself that the highest peak in Mafinga Hills was where the contour lines were the thickest on the map.  I checked the date to see if it was not April fool’s day and then went looking for my sense of humour. Finally arriving back in Tendere, Al and Frans had a very athletic chicken for supper.

13^th of July: After meeting the Chief and all the important people around the mountain we started our hike at 09h00. 12 Hours and at least 30km later we were back at the vehicle. The descent in the dark was hectic but we achieved what we came to do. We had measured all the peaks Jimmy had thought were possibilities plus the 7500 feet peak on the map. The mystery surrounding the unnamed hill in Mafinga Hills has been solved.

Conclusion:

1. Mwanda is the highest peak in Zambia on the Nyika Plateau
2. The hill mentioned in Peakbagger is behind Namitowa hill and is not the highest in Mafinga Hills.
3. CIA website: They were referring to the 7500 feet peak called Mafinga West. This is the highest peak in Zambia that’s not on the border.
4. The highest peak in Zambia is on the watershed and is higher than 7547 feet.

Decision: I need to start dating guys who work for the CIA. They must have access to topographic maps.

…… the next morning we left early and 60 hours of constant praying that we would not be asked for the Third Party Insurance, we had not obtained as we had entered Zambia through an unmanned border post on a weekend, followed. In Mfika the policeman’s face lit up when we informed him that we didn’t have Third Party Insurance. The fact that Frans accidentally almost ran over him when he tried to park the car didn’t help our case and two very long hours followed. We were told to pay a ZK 375 000 fine. The fact that we didn’t get a letter from the authority explaining the situation didn’t help. Neither did the fact that it was Saturday and that we didn’t have Zambian Kwatchas with us because the bank in Isoko didn’t exchange money. Luckily we were informed by the Commissioner in Isoko that he would notify the authorities on the Monday. We just had to be patient. Just before we took out the stove to cook some pasta, Frans was given his passport and drivers license back and we were instructed to go.

We refused to pay any bribes, and waited for 3 hours
before they gave up and let us go.

The vehicles paperwork was finally sorted out in Kapiri Moshi but because it was a weekend, we were still stuck without the third party insurance. It was a big relief when we finally crossed the Zambian border early Monday morning. 

To me, mountains are holy places and I think the highest peak in Zambia deserves a name. A name given by the locals. Unfortunately, there are not a lot of people that have been to the highest peak.