Zambia – Mafinga Hills

Ask 5 different people where Zambia’s highest peak is and you will get 5 different answers.

In my search for the correct information the past 15 months, I have tried the following:

• Got international roaming and phoned a surveyor in Zambia
• Contacted the Surveyor General in South Africa, Zambia and Malawi
• Joined a singles website and contacted everyone on the site living in Zambia
• Searched the internet for days
• Tried to contact Ginge Fullen, the guy who climbed the highest peak in all 53 African countries
• Contacted several surveyors, pilots and possible map sources as well as anyone that’s been to Zambia or Malawi recently
• Visited the High Commission of Zambia
• Visited the Surveyor General’s office in Lilongwe

After some search on GoogleEarth, Jimmy Stone summarised everything as follows:

“I found a number of high points in the Mafinga Hills in Zambia. From the different websites, we have the followings points given as the highest in Zambia

1. Lonely planet: Mwanda Peak 2148m
2. Peakbagger website: Zambia high 2164m
3. CIA website: Mafinga hills 2301m

I was a bit doubtful about the CIA website, as their elevation was so much higher than the others (more than 140m). But the elevations found in GoogleEarth at the Mafinga Hills area clearly shows that the highest point in Zambia is clearly higher than the 2164 indicated by PeakBagger. And must be in the 2277 plus range.

The only real issue now is to go climb it. When there, one can visit all three or four high points and that way make sure you have been on the highest point in Zambia.”

Jimmy tragically passed away on 7 March 2007, so it was up to me to go and find the highest peak.

On the 23^rd of June we (Frans Botha, Alan Reynolds and myself) left Pretoria at midnight in my 1300 Terios called Cutie. We traveled via Mozambique (where I got the distinct feeling that stopping South African motorists was every official in Mozambique’s dream come true). When we finally entered Malawi on the 27^th, we were stuck with a driver who will have nightmares about corrupt officials for life.

At the Mosambique border post

On the 7^th of July, we left the Chelinda camp in the Nyika Plateau at 08h30 and arrived at Chief Chambe’s village in Zambia 3 hours later. The road is only for true 4X4 lovers and you have washed away bridges as an added bonus.  

Sunset next to Tete

You definately need a 4X4 and lots of beer for the
passengers

Another day, another bad bridge

The Chief (76 years) insisted on joining us, we reached Mwanda peak 3 hours later. The Chief then prayed for the wellbeing of his people (according to Clever, our guide and translator). The beacon was broken by poachers looking for the steel. We arrived back at his place by 18h00 and were invited for supper, chisembe and relish.  We were also given bags filled with oranges and spinach. We arrived back at Chilinda camp at 24h00. It has been a privilege to visit Zambia’s highest peak on the Nyika Plateau with the 76 year old Chief. 

8^th of July:” Muzungus, Muzungus.” The happy chanting of the friendly Malawian children followed us all the way to Chisenga where we met everyone that was someone in the tiny village. The minister, teacher, chief in charge of the dispensary, policeman, etc. They all believed that Namitowa was the highest peak in Mafinga Hills. Just before we left the Nyika Plateau the previous day we met David Foot, who was kind enough to let us borrow his topographic maps of Mafinga Hills. Al and Frans wanted chicken for supper but there was a conspiracy amongst the vegetarians and the chicken got away.

Fish on top of "Why God Why" sign on the taxi
Don't you just love Africa?

9^th of July: Surrounded by at least 20 children and carrying 50 buns bought at the bakery the previous day, we reached the pine forest by 11h00. I measured the first unnamed peak at 13h00. According to the maps, this was it. In the distance we could, however, see a peak that looked higher. (Does this sound familiar?) We set of in that direction and pitched the tent close to the only water we could find around 18h00.

Me, Alan and the kids on top of the mountain

10^th of July: After 4 hours of hiking, we were back where we started. Disorientated by the mist, we almost climbed the wrong peak. Patches of dense vegetation turned out to be very challenging and the lack of water was becoming a problem so we headed back. We reached the pine plantation by 17h00 and I had to do without a bath since we couldn’t spare 20 drops of water.

Measuring what could be the highest peak

Some serious bundu bashing

11^th of July: Al and myself set off to measure Namitowa hill believing that it was the peak mentioned in Peakbaggers. Once again the mist came rolling in and by 12h00 we have measured Namitowa hill. (A lovely hill with a breathtaking view). We discovered that the peak mentioned in Peakbagger’s was 700m away. With no water left, we decided to go down to the village and return the next day.

12^th of July: After studying the maps again we decided to go to Zambia and climb the 7547 feet peak indicated on the map. The Trade Commissioner of Zambia in Pretoria had given me a letter to give to his brother in which he requested Mr Kaumba to assist us on Mafinga Hill and it was close to where Jimmy thought the highest peak was. We went through a small border post. The Zambian side was closed but we were told that it would be no problem. We could have our passports stamped in Isoko. Our nightmare in Zambia had just begun! At Tendere village I gave the letter to Mr. Kaumba and we were instructed by the Counselor to first go to Isoko to have our passports stamped before climbing the mountain. 6 hours of potholes, petrol fumes and dust followed. Our passports were stamped, we were told to have the vehicle papers sorted in Kapiri Moshi and I was given the Minister of Lands’ phone number. Apparently he could tell me where the highest peak in Zambia was. I was put on hold three times and was then informed by the expert himself that the highest peak in Mafinga Hills was where the contour lines were the thickest on the map.  I checked the date to see if it was not April fool’s day and then went looking for my sense of humour. Finally arriving back in Tendere, Al and Frans had a very athletic chicken for supper.

13^th of July: After meeting the Chief and all the important people around the mountain we started our hike at 09h00. 12 Hours and at least 30km later we were back at the vehicle. The descent in the dark was hectic but we achieved what we came to do. We had measured all the peaks Jimmy had thought were possibilities plus the 7500 feet peak on the map. The mystery surrounding the unnamed hill in Mafinga Hills has been solved.

Conclusion:

1. Mwanda is the highest peak in Zambia on the Nyika Plateau
2. The hill mentioned in Peakbagger is behind Namitowa hill and is not the highest in Mafinga Hills.
3. CIA website: They were referring to the 7500 feet peak called Mafinga West. This is the highest peak in Zambia that’s not on the border.
4. The highest peak in Zambia is on the watershed and is higher than 7547 feet.

Decision: I need to start dating guys who work for the CIA. They must have access to topographic maps.

…… the next morning we left early and 60 hours of constant praying that we would not be asked for the Third Party Insurance, we had not obtained as we had entered Zambia through an unmanned border post on a weekend, followed. In Mfika the policeman’s face lit up when we informed him that we didn’t have Third Party Insurance. The fact that Frans accidentally almost ran over him when he tried to park the car didn’t help our case and two very long hours followed. We were told to pay a ZK 375 000 fine. The fact that we didn’t get a letter from the authority explaining the situation didn’t help. Neither did the fact that it was Saturday and that we didn’t have Zambian Kwatchas with us because the bank in Isoko didn’t exchange money. Luckily we were informed by the Commissioner in Isoko that he would notify the authorities on the Monday. We just had to be patient. Just before we took out the stove to cook some pasta, Frans was given his passport and drivers license back and we were instructed to go.

We refused to pay any bribes, and waited for 3 hours
before they gave up and let us go.

The vehicles paperwork was finally sorted out in Kapiri Moshi but because it was a weekend, we were still stuck without the third party insurance. It was a big relief when we finally crossed the Zambian border early Monday morning. 

To me, mountains are holy places and I think the highest peak in Zambia deserves a name. A name given by the locals. Unfortunately, there are not a lot of people that have been to the highest peak.

South Africa – Drakensberg (The Grand Traverse)

I stopped believing in coincidences a long time ago so when my blind dancing partner asked me to join him on the 230km Drakensberg Grand traverse, I started packing.  The traverse was organized by the Roodepoort hiking club as part of their 25^th anniversary and they decided to raise funds for the society of the blind. Mmm, there was no way a blind guy can out walk me, was my exact thoughts!

On Sunday, the 22nd of April 12 eager hikers started the 13 day hike at the Sentinal. Andre, my friend decided in the end that he was not fit enough but Jaco Lubbe, who has got 5% eyesight joined us. The average age of the group was 47 – with Walter Mössner (74) the oldest and Jaco (30) the youngest. Our senses of humor were tested thoroughly and some of the highlights included

·       Strong winds that knocked some of us off our feet

·       Hail and temperatures below -10°

·       Snow

·       Visiting Mafadi and Thaba Nthlenyana, South Africa and Southern Africa’s highest peaks (And in Jaco’s case, doing handstands on them)

·       The pictures we took of ourselves first thing in the morning to see who looked the most like the michellin man. (I woke up one morning thinking I won the prize when I could not see anything. Unfortunately, I was then informed by Jaco that the reason I could not see anything was because I had my beanie over my face.)

·       The beautiful sunrises

·       Jaco saying someone left their teeth in his boots when he started getting blisters

The mountain was exceptionally clean and we only send two bags of litter (mostly plastic bags left in the streams by the locals) down with the resupply team.

It’s been a real privilege to

·              see some parts of the Drakensberg I haven’t seen before with my new hiking friends.

·              hike with Jaco (with his 5% eyesight he made me aware of the beauty of the Drakensberg’s reflections in the streams) and last but not least

It’s been an honour hiking with the stubborn 74 year old Walter who refused to let us carry some of his belongings after he had a fall.

South Africa – Wolkberg

Wolkberg

Thanks to several warnings, pictures and a video clip, we knew the road to the MCSA hut was going to be bad. We parked the 4X4 in the shade, just before the road got horrendous. Jimmy Stone and his son, who arrived the next morning, tried to go further, got stuck twice and decided to park close to us.

The hike to the hut was a pleasant one, with definite signs of where the other land rovers and 4X4 got stuck the previous weekend.  

Beautiful sunset

The litter-free MCSA hut was a pleasant surprise. Thanks to a handful of Haenertsburg ex-service men and their friends, building started in June 1951. Building material was loaded onto an armored car (from 2^nd ww and armor removed) and got the first building material to the hut. It took them 4 days to get down again so further material were either carried up manually or on donkeys. Today most people take the hut for granted. Hopefully future users will use it with the respect it deserves. (More info in the 1997 MCSA Journal).

Bird watching, a nice swim in the pool, a sunset and sitting around a cozy fire chatting before crawling into my sleeping bag ended my first day in this beautiful remote wilderness area.

Saturday: The next morning Etienne was very excited about the dormouse he encountered the previous evening. Reading through the journal in the hut he discovered that his name was Wallice. Wallice was a true gentleman and only took some of my breakfast cereal and a bit of Etienne’s. After breakfast we explored the area about 1km upstream from the famous pools. Our first attempt up the stream was barefoot and lasted about 30 minutes. Our second attempt was hiking through the bushes next to the stream. After several encounters with brambles, we decided to hike in the stream. The last stretch required pangas and we turned back reluctantly.

This bit required pangas

The hike back was awesome and we spotted a lot of birds, duikers and a reedbuck. Once again the swim in the pool was awesome. The rest of the afternoon was filled with bird discussions. The evening was spend story telling and just admiring this beautiful unspoiled place and lightning.

Sunday: 5 Minutes after waking up a decision was made to keep the hut as base camp. Etienne and Jimmy told me that Wallice and his cousin, Mr. Cutie Pie (A Fluffy Tailed Mouse) would have been kicked out if they were not indigenous. I went exploring while the rest of the group waited for the weather to clear. Around 10h00 Etienne and I started the “official” hike to the top of Wolkberge.



The top of Wolkberg

We startled a little reedbuck that injured his leg. It left both of us sad. It was spectacular on top. After our third attempt, we found a pass down. Etienne stepped on a berg adder – so much for injuring animals. The hike back was lovely and we arrived at the hut around 4 o’clock. After a nice sunset I was ready for bed.

Monday: We decided to explore a bit more and took the Jeep track we spotted the previous day. After +- 15km we turned back and hiked for another hour. Then we entered the “aqua/brandnetel” route. Hiking in the river turned out just as much fun as the previous time and we finally got the spot where we started exploring the previous time. Etienne shoe sole came undone and he looked pretty silly picking up his feet! Going up the hill on top of the famous pools, Etienne cleared the path using the cutter. The path to the hut was also very overgrown. By this time, my legs full of scratch marks were shouting for mercy. Etienne decided to head for the car to find something he can fix his boot with while I tried my best to avoid the brambles and other branches poking into my legs. The path was badly eroded. The swim in the pool at the MCSA hut must have been the best I ever had.

Once can easily spend a month here. There are so many beautiful places to explore (if you ignore the nasty plants). Etienne build another campsite after he fixed his boot.

Tuesday: We started at 8h00 and got to Oom Paul’s nose around 12h00. What a beautiful unspoilt place. The scramble down was hectic at first. Once in the Sprokieswoud we took a wrong turn and discovered a lot of litter. Needless to say, it spoilt the moment. We picked up what we could and had the rubbish bags with us the rest of the hike as a reminder how selfish people can be. It was an awesome sight watching hundred’s of fireflies in this magnificent forest.



Picking up litter left behind by hikers in the forest

We had to abandon this route when we had to swim

Wednesday: The bramble made the hike to the bottom house extreme – at some stage we carried our backpacks on our necks following a river until it got too deep. The next step was to leopard crawl through the bushes. A very exciting hike indeed. Once we got to the house we left our back-packs behind and speed walked the 5 km to the vehicle.

Leopard crawling

This is a truly wilderness experience and I can easily spend a month here.

Zimbabwe – Mt Inyangani (Inyangani) and Mozambique – Chimanimani (Binga)

Zimbabwe – Mt Inyangani (Inyangani) and Mozambique – Chimanimani (Binga)

Going to Zimbabwe’s mountains seemed like a great idea. Visiting Mozambique’s highest peak via Zimbabwe made it seem like an even better idea! For more than a year, people have warned me not to go –so this time, I didn’t mention the trip to anyone. I found another mountain lover and we left Pretoria on the 25^th at 22h00 with 145l petrol in jerry cans.

The Beit Bridge border experience was not that horrendous – we arrived at 03h00 and were on our way again by sunrise, having only paid R400 in total.

Then we were on our way to Nyanga.  Due to the shortage of petrol, there were not a lot of vehicles on the road and we were surrounded by beautiful mountains most of the way.

After paying our entrance fees at the Nyanga National Park, it took us 90 minutes minutes to get to the top of Mount Nyangani (2593m). Mount Nyangani is a charming "soft" shy mountain and clouds covered her most of the time. She was very clean and we only picked up a small bag of rubbish. An awfully big piece of my heart was left behind.

Touring through the Honde valley afterwards was spectacular.

The next morning we were up early but our plans to see the sun rise in the Vumba botanical gardens had to be postponed because of the mist/rain. We did spend some time with Wilfred Mbowa, the birding guide at the Leopard Rock Game Reserve and what a remarkable experience.

On our way to Mutare later that afternoon a speed cop jumped in front of us with the biggest smile I have seen on a person's face. He greeted us with "I'm going to lock you up". It was also the quickest I have seen someone's smile disappear when he noticed Wilfred in the vehicle with us. We paid R20 for driving 69km/h in a 60km/h zone.

The Chimanimani is raw beauty on a vast scale. We arrived at Chimanimani national park at 15h30 and because of the mist rolling in we pitched our tents at the car park.

The next morning we started our hike to Mt Binga at 08h00. We arrived at the spotlessly kept hut at 10h30. Two scouts came to chat to us and explained that the rifles they were carrying were meant to shoot the illegal miners, which left me speechless and feeling much safer J They told us that the path to the top was clearly marked and we should reach Mt Binga by 15h00.

When we were still hiking at 15h00 with Mt Binga nowhere in site we came to the mutual agreement that we were lost. We also agreed that we must have followed one of the thousands of paths made by the illegal miners (there were at least 15 of them panning for gold in the river but we didn't stay to find out if they were friendly). The mist was rolling in and taking Jimmy's thumb as a measuring tool, we came to the conclusion that we were very far off the map in Mozambique. Since we didn't have Mt Binga's coordinates, Jimmy decided to calculate it using his thumb, my hiking stick, a book and the waypoints of the hut and camp.

By 17h00 it was confirmed! We were totally lost. Keeping in mind the warning about the land mines we decided to pitch the tent in a spot we hoped were safe from the smugglers. We must have looked a sight moving around on the rocks trying to avoid "possible landmines". Once the mist cleared we were greeted by trillions of bright stars.

The sunrise was spectacular and we started our hike shortly afterwards. We followed a path going in the general direction of where we thought Mt Binga must lie and an hour later we were very close to the peak. We didn't read the manual properly and decided after an hour of struggling to get to the top that there must be an easier route. Walking around we soon found a clearly marked path – straight to the top! What a fine-looking site!

I did warn Jimmy that I can't help crying when I have to go down a beautiful mountain so he didn't seem very concerned when my tears came.   We were back at the camp by 15h00.

Chimanimani is a beautiful mountain and my only regret is that we didn't spend more time on her. The scouts keep her clean and we could only fill a small bag with rubbish – apparently left behind by the smugglers. According to the register the following hikers were on Chimanimani in 2006: 217 from Zimbabwe, 6 from South-Africa, 2 from England, 2 from Denmark, 3 from Finland, 4 from Italy, 2 from Israel, 1 from Germany, 1 from Netherlands and 1 from America.

Going through Beit Bridge on our way back was a pleasure. We went through at 6h00 and it took us no more than 20 minutes.

Botswana – Otse Hill (Mt Otse – or not)

Driving back from Namibia, we stopped in Botswana to climb to Mt Otse. What can I say. It took us two hours to find the mountain and by this time, Riaan and Glen have had enough of mountains. I was told to go on my own, which took me exactly 30 minutes. Since there was no-one to take a photo, I had to do that as well.

A year later, I discovered I have been to the wrong peak.

Namibia – Brandberg (Konïgstein) (Tsiseb route)

“Leave your 4 season tent behind – it never rains in Namibia”. Parting words of Frans and since he’s been to Namibia I left the tent, splash cover and general raingear. It never rains in Namibia…..

Two days before we left South Africa I booked a camping site via the internet and made some enquiries about guides. “Are you fit?” came the reply. I didn’t have time to explain about my genes and I told Riaan and Glen to get fit two months ago so I ignored Basil’s e-mail.

The guidebook mentioned guides at the tourist centre in Uis so we stopped there and met Siegfried – our soon to be guide. He informed me that we were planning to take the difficult route. Difficult equals scenic and after some deliberations with Glen and Riaan we decided to go scenic. It was not that difficult to convince Siegfried to take us on the scenic route.

Day 1: We forgot to set our watches according to Namibian time but Basil had a sense of humour when we woke him up at 5. Mmmmm, so it never rains in Namibia. Well, we had to improvise and 3 minute tents were packed and our hike started officially at 7 at the entrance to the White lady – in the rain.

8 hours later I didn’t dare ask if anyone lost their sense of humour. The normal scenic route was not so normal anymore with all the rain and we went up one mountain side, then down it just to go up again 10m further. Eleven hours of boulder hopping (most of it done in the rain that never falls in Namibia) started to take its toll. I had another spectacular fall and landed with my face in the sand.

I felt like Livingstone exploring – my legs were a network of scratches and I ended with several thorns stuck in them. The evening was spent in our minuscule tents listening to the rain wetting our sleeping bags.

Day 2: 8 o’clock at night and we were lying in our tents in wet sleeping bags watching the tents getting wetter and wetter.

We started our adventure at half past eight in order to try and get some of our stuff dry and nine hours of falling over boulders followed. Glen behaved the best when he lost his sense of humour. Myself? Let’s not elaborate. Riaan? It was hilarious. Our guide? The last I heard was “Your boots can stay outside in the rain” when I asked him to keep them in his tent.

The hike was the toughest one so far in Africa. Boulder after boulder made us doubt our guide’s sense of direction and left us with something to talk about in the future.

Something I definitely will recommend is long pants. Our casualties? I can’t pick up my leg – I suspect a pinched nerve. Siegfried – not sure but he’s freezing in his tent – no sense of humour. Glen – battling to walk – been chafed badly. Riaan? Besides almost fainting his back is killing him.

Day 3: “Ek is bo. Waar’s die helikopter. Wie’t gesê dis nie vir moffies nie. Kaseb se gat. Ons het Tsiseb se gat geskop” was Riaan’s entry in the journal on top op Konigstein.

We all got up at 4h30 and by 5h00 we were on our way. The sun started rising at 6h00. So we made one mistake. When I asked our guide if I can leave my backpack and run to the top his inappropriate reply “If you can find it again” made my sense of humour splatter down the mountain. I told him that I will find my own way to the top and that it was in his best interest to stay as far as possible from me. Riaan and Glen have decided to take their time with the ascent. When they finally arrived at 7h00, peace was restored and we spent two hours on the top drying our stuff.

When we asked Siegfried how long it will take to get down, he replied: 4 hours.

Four hours later we were at Longipools. His reply when asked how much further was – four hours! It is a beautiful mountain so I didn’t lose my sense of humour.

The descent was quite adventurous with loads of boulder hopping/climbing/crawling and every now and again a voice yelling “Siegfried, I’m stuck! Come help”

Four hours later, when the reply to the question “how far still to go” came, it was a good test of character. Another four hours which made our total hiking time for the day 10 hours. Basil was asked to wait at the camping site and a unanimous decision was made not to ask Siegfried how far still.

When it got dark and Glen and Riaan had to fall over the boulders because Riaan’s torch batteries were flat and Glen had to give Siegfried his, it was another test of character.

“Thirteen hours of challenging hiking and dear Basil waiting for us with an ice cold beer. I have never been so glad to see a vehicle! Brandberg is awesome!” - Karen

“I know why it’s inappropriate to hike with a gun – we would have been without a guide by the end of day two” – Riaan

“Awesome mountain – my first and an experience that I doubt can be bettered” - Glen

Kenya – Mount Kenya

Talk about coincidences!  At 7 o’clock on the 17^th of February 2006 two Karens were picked up in a town called Karen by Chris Muriiti, the guide from Africa Big Mountains.

It’s difficult to decide which Karen was the craziest.

Karen G’s heart was broken. She used to be a climber but once her fiancée broke off their engagement, she made a decision never to climb again. Their honeymoon would have been on Mt Kenya.

Karen H’ heart was kinda broken. She climbed some small peaks before (1 pitch). She was supposed to get married on Mafadi and have her honeymoon on Mt Kenya. Although she has never climbed more than 1 pitch, she was determined to see the sunrise on Bation and Nelion.

The two Karen’s met for the first time at the airport on the 15^th of February, where it was discovered that Karen G forgot to pay for the tickets she booked for the two of them.

On the 16^th Chris took the two Karen’s to Hell’s gate. Karen H had to climb while Karen G did some bird watching and practised her Swahili. Karen H almost didn’t make it to Mt Kenya. When she got to the top of Hell’s gate, she got a whiff of Steven’s smelly feet. He used to be an officer in the army for 50 years and instead of retiring he decided to guard this particular peak. He had very specific ideas about climbing the peak.

17^th: After picking up the two Belgians, Joke and Jaak, they travelled to Chogoria. It was an extremely bumpy road. Their first glimpse of the mountain was from afar, but they could see that she was on fire. Once they got to Bandas camp site they were fortunate to meet a bird lover and went exploring. Karen H had several panic attacks after she was told by the Americans that the climbs to Batian (5199m) and Nelion (5189m) were very exposed.

18^th: Karen H woke the rest of the camp when she fell down a hill picking up litter. The Belgians, clearly affected by the altitude, warned her not to go to Mt Everest.

They were all a bit grumpy due to a lack of sleep. They were kept awake by the porters celebrating their descent and then at two o’clock they were entertained by the buffaloes snorting, eating and farting next to their tent.

Joke was definitely affected by the altitude. The hike to Lake Ellis took 6 hours instead of 3. Karen H refused to walk past litter and Karen G was taking pictures of the burned mountain and practising her Swahili, which clearly impressed the guides. Once at the Roadhead camp the porters were instructed to clean the camp and to burn the litter. By 19h45 everyone was ready for bed.

19^th: Karen H felt a bit more comfortable climbing the peaks after watching the beautiful stars in the sky the previous night. She also decided against taking diamox since she was already slowing down the group by picking up litter. They left the camp by 8h00. They didn’t get far before it was decided that Chris would return with Joke. Apparently there are no mountains in Belgium. Karen G still impressed the locals with her Swahili. At 4200m the altitude was starting to affect everyone.

At Mintos hut Karen H had her usual bath before going on a cleaning spree. Karen G followed with her camera and her satellite phone. A decision was made – they would contact their “ex’s.”

20^th: Karen H was ecstatic when two guides accompanied her and Jaak at 2:30 to watch the sun rise on Lenana (4995m). Because of the bright moon headlamps were unnecessary.

It was freezing and Jaak suffered. He said it was his first and last sunrise on a peak.

Karen H was in tears when the sun came out. 10 minutes later she was in tears again when she saw the litter on top of Lenana. Going back to camp the Jaak told the people they passed that the peak was closed due to all the litter. They congratulated Karen H on picking up their litter. Karen H was in tears again. This was the best sunrise she has ever experienced. She also had to say goodbye to Jaak who went to Shipton’s hut. The porter decided at this stage that the quickest way to get back to the camp was to help her pick up the litter.

After Breakfast Karen G went exploring while Karen H slept. When Karen G returned she could hear Karen H cursing. She has declared war against the people defecating all over Mt Kenya and was picking up their shit – zip lock bag firmly wrapped around her hand. She had these brilliant ideas for t-shirts: “If you are going to litter you are unfit to be on this mountain” and “Please don’t leave your s**t on our beautiful mountain”. One of the porters was helping her.

Karen H had mixed feelings about the mountain. There was the fire destroying the animals, the overwhelming sunrise and all the litter.

This Gheko survived!

21^st:  Karen H exploded when she woke up to find new litter lying around. She confronted the family next to them who denied littering. At this stage she was on a mission. Karen G decided to join her in her effort and together they picked up two bags on their way to Austrian Hut.

The guide didn’t find it amusing when she told him that they must remove the plane wreck as well.

Karen H was petrified when she saw the two peaks but after practising her glacier hiking with Simon her technical climbing guide she felt more comfortable. How bad can 15 pitches be?

The two Karen’s were in bed by 8. Both experienced some difficulty breathing and woke up gasping for air.

22^nd: Karen G left the hut at 3 to watch the sun rise on Lenana.  Karen H has crossed the glacier by 7. There was no turning back for her now. The first pitch was not bad, but she refuses to say anything after that one pitch. Approximately 15 pitches later (4 hours), she was on top of Nelion. The hut looked like a five star hotel

After the guide went to sleep she started picking up litter. The porters in Austrian hut looked through the binoculars and saw her picking up litter. “Mamma Taka Taka is picking up Taka Taka”, they shouted when Karen G got back. Soon the whole camp was transformed. Everyone was picking up litter.

The evening was spent in the hut melting ice. Karen H was gasping for breath and would swallow two panados at regular intervals. At 5189 m the altitude was affecting her.

23^rd: Karen H experienced another wonderful Sunrise on an African Peak at 6h30. It took them 3 hours to abseil down with one Karrimore bag filled with litter and about two hours to cross the glacier. Back at Austrian hut the porters were running around showing her the bags of litter they picked up. Karen G was showing Karen H her scars she got hiking to Lenana. After lunch and a nice bath (Karen H was really ponging), the two of them started the hike to Shipton’s hut.

3 Bags of litter were picked up on their way and Karen H cried a lot. Shipton’s hut was a nice surprise. Huge hyraxes and rats were running around and they had an en suite “bathroom”

24^th: After breakfast they started their hike to Old Moses hut. Loads of litter were collected. Once at the hut they met some crazy “hikers”. Some of them were on their way to Lenana with only a fancy jersey. They were obviously not going to make it to the top.

25^th: It was only the porters and guide who were keen to go down. The two Karen’s were sad to leave the beautiful mountain. Everyone joined in picking up litter going down.

As soon as they were in the vehicle the mist rolled in and the mountain was covered.

It made the parting more bearable…..